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Is it worth contacting the manufacturer?

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I guess how you are forced to drive the car just doesn't suit it. The other cars with bigger blocks might stay warmer longer or something else.

 

Either way you have to decide if you're better to stick with your car or get something else. It seems, other problems aside, that you'll be better off sticking with it and suffering the mpg. 38 doesn't actually sound all that bad for what you're doing and you're not likely to improve on it unless you go for an old school diesel.

Edited by Aspman

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  • I hate myself for suggesting it but would a Renault Twizy work for you? I get the feeling that (range and charging dependent) you probably are an ideal candidate for an electric car.

  • When nobody is around to think you are a girl racer try changing gear differently and later like the similar engine does when fitted to an autobox. it revs happily to 4000-5000+ rpm Forget torque ban

  • the fact is that all MPG results are a result of a specific test cycle in a controlled test condition.   Thats why alot of them are quite far from the real world results.       Unfortunately if

Possibly the better solution for this would be electric / hybrid. The problem is that they are prohibitvely expensive.

i deem myself as a good Eco driver, i understand how to make the best of an engine but its a lost cause! :(

Probably teaching you to suck eggs here ... but improved economy can generally be achieved by minimising braking while avoiding out-of-gear or declutched coasting. Minimising braking requires looking ahead and good planning, trying to keep to a steady speed a greater proportion of the time, avoiding stop-start situations, and so on.

 

You mentioned elsewhere about not labouring an engine and not rev'ing the *******s off it. You certainly would want to use a reasonable rev-range when accelerating -- getting the acceleration done in the quickest time helps economy if you can then capitalise on it by maintaining a steady speed in the lowest suitable gear (to reduce friction losses) and not braking except when really needed.

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This i understand which is very well and good on an empty road when i can accelerate to speed in my own time but town is busy most of time (Whitby is a beautiful place to live and work but the tourists are a small nightmare!) so driving how i want is not going to happen 100%

 

I think i am best just sticking withit but the whole point of this thread was to see if highlighting all the problems (including all the work its had done already) will spur some kind of responce, i mean end of the day if we all just sucked up and lived with it then there would be no changes made.

 

The whole situation of the Canadians getting their fuel money back was not down to Hyundai realising how far fetched their figures are

 

I think i am best just sticking withit but the whole point of this thread was to see if highlighting all the problems (including all the work its had done already) will spur some kind of responce, i mean end of the day if we all just sucked up and lived with it then there would be no changes made.

 

In that case, I would suggest do it then. It'll cost pennies to do and there is the possibility that Hyundai HQ do say that "it's not right and we'll see what we can do about it"

Is there a Hyundai i10 forum, do other owners have the same gripes?     A collective strike against Hyundai UK may help.

Physical faults are easily proven and you follow certain channels.

Fuel consumption is very difficult problem to shout about due to the variables.

Your driving style and types of use have a major impact. Very short trips with a cold engine and lots of stop start will give you crap figures, which you say you are doing.

That said I have a friend and they change their 2 Ford focuses every 3 years religiously and have same spec different colours.

On the last change they had 2 x 1.6 sports and one of them had a massive fuel problem.

They complained from the first tank of fuel that one of the cars was drinking heavily and the garage/dealership laughed.

It was in and out of the garage and told it was fine.

So they ran some tests I.e. filled up to the brim on both cars and drove one behind the other over certain distances and proved the fuel gauge was dropping faster on one more than the other did a top up back to the brim and proved it, eventually the Ford garage took it back and they got a replacement car.

The car they had the problem with was put straight onto the dealers second hand forecourt and sold to some unsuspecting punter!

So yes some cars can have a drink problem but unless you can run a like for like test it is difficult.

Achieving a manufactures claimed mpg is virtually impossible, it is a guide.

Achieving a manufactures claimed mpg is virtually impossible, it is a guide.

 

I have never had any problems achieving Combined MPG figures for any car I have owned. It is all down to how and where you drive it. 

  • 1 month later...

You might want to check out the current edition of What Car? magazine.

 

They have a 'Help Desk' section and there is a Hyundai i10 owner with a brand new 1.2 automatic suffering from poor MPG.

. My calls range from half hour to 2 hours and there can be up to 20 calls a day, some of them close together (mile or two) but the furthest i go is about 5 miles

 

I think that it's how you are using the car (as above) which is killing the fuel consumption, that sort of use will reduce the consumption on anything.  The Urban driving cycle is 4Km in 13 minutes and you're doing trips of 1.6 to 8Km and from the start your cars engine will be below the temperature at which it starts the driving cycle.

 

If you take the car for a good run and obtain close to the manufacturers figure for that type of driving, it suggests that there can't be much wrong with the car, especially as the dealer has checked it and found everything in order.

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Nope even on long runs the best its ever achieved is 43-44mpg. 

Just a thought but would an LPG car not be better if it's about cheap to run ok you loose mpg but the cost is nearly half I've never had one but a friend who does a lot of miles reckons he wouldn't have anything else

Could it be worth trying to keep the heat generated by the engine, in the engine. You see it a lot in countries with harsher winters then ours - blocked up radiator grills/front vents to keep heat in the engine (as well as preheaters etc.. but thats probably one step too far). If each of your stops is 30mins (give or take I know, my mum and a neighbour has home care workers and I know the visits can vary a lot), a small block alu engine is going to cool off pretty quickly - probably just enough in this case to make every start a cold one. Could be worth a try as it should keep the engine happier.

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Yeah she does loose heat quickly and this has been an issue with all my cars ive used for work, some more so then others but even the Octy sometimes started a cold cycle once left long enough. 

 

Well since my Clio is off the road ive been using the i10 for all my driving and she has been on the longer smoother moor runs, and still the best it is achieving is 42mpg so it has increased but not by much.

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