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Genuine VW LED Number plate Lights


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So if you're completely inept when it comes to electronics & the use of a soldering iron et al, where do you get such a cable or doesn't exist?

 

If it doesn't exist then basically we're completely & utterly fecked, 

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As PekoSi fantastically explained, thats the way, i however was lazy and didn't want to search and reproduce such resistor.

I bought the light from Carsystems.pl and the resistor from the above link at Kufatec. Very simple to do.

Apologise for my help not been brilliant been quite busy last few hours but PekoSi has been brilliant offering advice.

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So we're looking at €42,99 for the lights & another €38 for the cables which is roughly £70!

Sod that. :devil:

There has to be a lot cheaper options available than that.

Thats the one :)

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I get the benefit of installing LED lights inside the car, I just don't see the benefit of 60 odd quid on the number plate lights!

Could be worse, he could do what my mate did and have a £50 note lacquered into the rear bumper with its only money written underneath it lol.

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Just to repeat an earlier post in this thread, it is possible to get nice, bright white numberplate LED's (yes the link IS for Octy 3 numberplate LED's) for less than a fiver and there are plenty of people around who would be willing to use VCDS to code out the error warning.

There is, this thread was simply started to show people that there were genuine VW led number plate lights out there that work as I was asked numerous times :). If people wish not to buy the vw modules so be it, just trying to offer help where possible :).

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First you need to measure how much current OEM bulb draws using a multimeter (measurement a - should be around 0.4A with standard 5W bulb). Do the same measurement with your LED replacement bulb (measurement b )

 

Then some basic formulas:

a - b = I (current that resistor must draw - in Amperes)

R = 12V / I (value of the resistor needed in Ohms; also measure the correct voltage with the engine running (could be more than 12V))

P = 12V x I (resistor power rating in Watts)

 

Power rating will be probably around 3-4W which means you could use 2 x 2W resistors wired in parallel (with double resistor value 2R). 

The resistor(s) then need to be wired in parallel with LED bulb (some soldering and heat-shrinking tube required if you want to do it properly).

 

Also to be sure you still get the warning message on maxi-dot in case LED fails you should try some higher resistor values (than the one calculated) to find out when the warning goes off and then use the previous one. This way you can make sure everything works as before.

 

Or you can just save yourself the trouble with DIY version and buy everything like Rob did  :)

 

Hope this helps a bit

 

Thank you - a great guide.

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Used these on my FL 2012 vRS,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300682920786?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

so intend getting some more and fitting them the same way to my Mk3 when it arrives. No VCDS coding was required and bulb out warning works on my FL so fingers crossed.

 

These look great - so they just get inserted between the normal cable and the light unit. Do they come with the right fitting?

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Unless you're going to put something constructive into this discussion, I politely request you go elsewhere.

Messy. The other way is far neater. The trouble is it's far more expensive too.  :thumbdown:

And yours was constructive how?

I have come up with another very easy option to get LED's working and you tell me its messy. Highly constructive I'm sure it will make me want to publish my results of trying. Anyway better things to do than get into a debate over this.

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And yours was constructive how?

I have come up with another very easy option to get LED's working and you tell me its messy. Highly constructive I'm sure it will make me want to publish my results of trying. Anyway better things to do than get into a debate over this.

 

It's a valid opinion, it's a messy way of doing things compared to the neat & tidy, albeit expensive alternative. Anyway I've had stuff from that seller before and it's been absolute rubbish, 4 sets of LEDs all blown/failed within 6 weeks. Crap, don't touch it.

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It's a valid opinion, it's a messy way of doing things compared to the neat & tidy, albeit expensive alternative. Anyway I've had stuff from that seller before and it's been absolute rubbish, 4 sets of LEDs all blown/failed within 6 weeks. Crap, don't touch it.

As is your opinion.

I guess we all speak from experience and in my case the stuff I've bought from those links/sellers has worked fine for the last 8 months on both my vRS and my wife's Scout.

Boot panel off, resistors clipped into number plate bulb wires, bulbs changed, panel refitted and they've worked fine on both cars since.

I guess that's the beauty of this forum, people are prepared to experiment and post their results and then we can all make a choice on the route we want to follow based on those experiments.

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