Jump to content

Car wax - hints and advice


GLENT54321

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

Since taking delivery of the new car i think its important to protect it now, i was reading in a thread somewhere on here about diffrent wax's etc but cant find it again.

 

Can anyone advice if this is the stuff people werre advising to use?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collinite-No-845-Insulator-Wax-Long-Lasting-Durable-Detailing-Valeting-/400518606580?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item5d40c4eef4#ht_2430wt_1163

 

Also does anyone have any hints/tips on applying it to the car for best results? i have been reading up via google on loads of ways!

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I was to have a new car again I would plasti dip (clear) the front bumper. The Roads are shocking where i live and the stone chips make me want to cry

 

never heard of the stuff! would it be worth doing the front bumper and bonnet? does it protect against stone chips etc?  ill have a search now! thanks

Edited by GLENT54321
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a minefield!! The Collinite Insulator wax is excellent but it's more for summer as it doesn't quite have the lasting power of their other waxes. I have 3 of them Collinite 476, 915 and the one above 845.

 

The 476 is the one to get for winter protection, it lasts easily for 6 months once applied in two coats.

 

It's a matter of personal choice and I use loads having dabbled into the 'detailing world' but Collinite 476 is my favourite. Cost is around £15 - 317 a tin but will last years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Since taking delivery of the new car i think its important to protect it now, i was reading in a thread somewhere on here about diffrent wax's etc but cant find it again.

 

Can anyone advice if this is the stuff people werre advising to use?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collinite-No-845-Insulator-Wax-Long-Lasting-Durable-Detailing-Valeting-/400518606580?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item5d40c4eef4#ht_2430wt_1163

 

Also does anyone have any hints/tips on applying it to the car for best results? i have been reading up via google on loads of ways!

 

Thanks

No matter what wax you use, preparation of the paint surface is as important as the wax coat itself

Always clean and polish the paint before the LSP (Last stage product) or you will compromise its durability.

Collinite and all its types is a very good durable wax....However, if you want a wax that lasts a few months...go for Collinite 476

If you intend to wax more frequently, then any wax will do

I would also consider applying a sealer prior to your choice of wax if durability is your primary concern

BTW...no amount of wax or sealer protection will prevent stone chips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thumbs up for Collinate 476S. Excellent stuff. Plan to get some on the car this week if the weather is co-operative! But is hard work to apply and polish up.

 

The damp atmosphere at this time of year is always a problem for removing polish and wax.

Edited by threadbear
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thumbs up for Collinate 476S. Excellent stuff. Plan to get some on the car this week if the weather is co-operative! But is hard work to apply and polish up.

The damp atmosphere at this time of year is always a problem for removing polish and wax.

If you're having problems removing Collinite, it's probably been left to cure too long. I more often than not treat most waxes as WOWO (wipe on wipe off) and would really only apply Collinite one panel, or two at the very most, at a time before wiping off. It's actually better to apply it this time of year, as it can get baked on in the sun.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the 845,

It is so simple to use.

As mentioned above, Prep is all so important.

Never mind the durability of 845 Vs 476.

Who want's to not freshen up their car periodically?

I know that I could not sit back and not bother doing anything to my car for 6 months or more. 

Once you use 845 you will agree that it is so easy to use, you will not mind giving it a top up coat after a month or so.

I would always coat my car with it and give it a second coat withing a week, This gives it excellent shine and durability.

I would always give a top up coating every month or two.

Never left me down yet.

 

On saying that.
I stripped back both our vRS's over the past week.

Mk1 vRS in Black

and Mk2 fl Combi in silver.

 

I gave both cars 2 coats of Gtechniq C2V3 over bare paint.

Was astonished at the

 

1) simplicity of use,

 

2) Shine

 

3) Beading :P

 

Basically 2 squirts per panel and literally wipe it on and walk away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So whats the best way to apply the collinite 875/476?

 

I know about decent prep before hand etc.

 

Is it worth 'claying' it before hand? how do you 'clay' a car? is the clay expensive?

 

How should i apply the wax? i dont have a machine so it will be by hand!

do i do it in big circles?

lots of pressure or light pressure?

Any specific pads/cloths?

removal - light buffing?

 

Thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So whats the best way to apply the collinite 875/476?

I know about decent prep before hand etc.

Make sure you use a decent pre wax cleaner after claying.

So Is it worth 'claying' it before hand?

Not just worth it, essential IMO.

How do you 'clay' a car? is the clay expensive?

Clay bars start at about a fiver for small bar, you can get 200g of Bilt Hamber clay for about £11. Big bars of clay made by 3M, Swissvax, Zymol, etc tend to be more expensive. You need to lubricate the panel/clay with a clay lube or quick detailer (eg Valet Pro Citrus Bling, Meguiar's Last Touch, etc or plain water with Bilt Hamber), tear a chunk of clay from the bar and warm it in your hands till soft and malleable, then rub it back and forth over the lubricated panel until the paint feels smooth.

How should i apply the wax? i dont have a machine so it will be by hand!

By hand is best

do i do it in big circles?

Small, overlapping circles or straight lines or whatever you want really - circles make it easier to ensure you don't miss a bit.

lots of pressure or light pressure?

Light pressure.

Any specific pads/cloths?

Soft foam applicator to apply, soft microfibre cloth to remove.

removal - light buffing?

Ideally, yes. Theoretically you apply the wax in the thinnest layer you can - wipe your applicator pad lightly over the wax pot twice and that should be enough to apply a thin layer to at least one panel - and it's ready to remove when you can wipe your finger across the wax on the car and it removed the wax rather than smears, normally 5 - 10 mins depending on atmospheric conditions, type of wax (some waxes can be oily and will never wipe clean), etc. I'm of the opinion that can apply Collinite to one panel and remove it straightaway before moving onto the next. I certainly would advise against applying to the whole car before buffing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wont Quote the whole post above!  

 

So do you wash the car like normal? Shampoo, water & Sponge then dry with a chamois

 

Then clay the whole car, id do the claying inside my work place (i work from a huge aircraft hangar)

 

Then a pre wax wash - Im guessing its same process as the first wash but i use a special solution instead

 

then re dry the car

 

then apply the wax, as thin layer as possible, completing one panel at a time WOWO technique.

 

Thanks for the advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So do you wash the car like normal? Shampoo, water & Sponge then dry with a chamois

I can hear the collected gasps of all the briskoda detailers after reading that lol

Ditch the sponge and chamois asap!

Replace with a wash mitt and drying towel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eric's just had 2 coats of Jetseal 109. Wonderful stuff, easy on and easy off.

Did you apply that by hand or machine? I've got some AF Power Seal, which is virtually identical by the look of the stuff and thinking of putting it on my Dad's Superb for Winter, especially as he'll probably end up layering wax over it.

Wont Quote the whole post above!

So do you wash the car like normal? Shampoo, water & Sponge then dry with a chamois

Then clay the whole car, id do the claying inside my work place (i work from a huge aircraft hangar)

Then a pre wax wash - Im guessing its same process as the first wash but i use a special solution instead

then re dry the car

then apply the wax, as thin layer as possible, completing one panel at a time WOWO technique.

Thanks for the advice!

Pre wash with foam or at least some kind of pre-cleaner (I like citrus pre wash through a pressure sprayer) or a very good, thorough rinse with a pressure washer

Wash as normal, there's nothing wrong with a sponge as long as your pre wash is EXTREMELY thorough, I use a mitt. Don't bother drying.

Clay and then either depending on how dirty the residue is either wipe down after each part you've clayed or just wash as normal. Dry with a plush drying towel.

Pre-wax cleaner applied.

Coat of wax/sealant. If you're going to do it all inside you can probably allow a bit of curing time (5 mins) if you want to but IMO it's not necessary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What exactly is a `Pre-wax cleaner`?

Regards

Mike.

Can mean a lot of things, some manufacturers give this name to super fine micro abrasive polishes that contain cleaning agents to prep the paint for maximum bonding with the wax or sealer.

I have also seen it used as a name for more APC like products (all purpose cleaners) or dedicated polish removers like CarPro eraser which helps clean up polish dust after machine polishing.

I even sometimes see glazes referred to as falling into the category.

I think it's easier to consider it a step rather than a specific product

Link to comment
Share on other sites

God its all so confusing! lol

 

So

 

Wash car using a wash mitt and drying towel! no sponge or chamois

 

Dont dry, just clay the car

 

Wash with a pre wax wash solution

 

dry with a dring towel (im guessing these are the micro fibre ones?)

 

Polish - 1 panel at a time Wipe On Wipe Off ( im going for the Collinite 875)

 

Duff up.

 

 

Whats wrong with using a sponge and chamois leather? i though the leather would be the best? the one i have is older than me! passed throught he family! not a crappy quality one from now adays lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern paint is acrylic based and is less hard than traditional cellulose based paints that used to used

Therefore it will scratch and chip far easier..to minimise damage, use soft microfiber, rather than harsher leather and sponges that hold dirt that will scratch acrylic paint

Hope this helps

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers, explains it really!

 

I shall proceed to order a wash mitt - lambs wool - real or synthetic? or a noodle microfibre mitt?   i already have microfibre towels so ill start using them!

 

As for the process i mentioned above ( #22) That seem about right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.