im trying to connect something to the battery.

there are two wires : red - with a fuse inside a white 'holder' and the end of it is flat, (a squarehead?????????? or sumthin)

the other is black(ground)

how do i connect these to the battery. iv looked and the red wire wont fit into any port on the battery.

i can hear u laughing, im a complete novice.

Cheers, Steve

The red (fused) wire can be connected to any of the 10mm studs on the top of the batery. The black (negative) wire can be connected to any metal mounting point on the car body.

The picture below might help.

cheers. how exactly do u connect the red wire to the battery? is there another fitment, or do i just have it securly connected, metal to metal. also, soes the fuse need to be put into the fusebox at all? or just left in line

I found that usually the wire you get comes with a ring connector, which will then sit on the end of the positive terminal, by undoing the 10mm bolt and reattaching with the ring terminal under.

Sadly I've no piccie to show what I mean - This is under the first battery cover, not the second one.

I hate to sound a prude but if you know that little about car electronics I would sugest you leave it to someone else. I've seen to many burnt out wiring looms etc from ill fitted accessories such as neon lights etc.

Just thinking of your safety and the well being of your car.

the end of the red wire in mine is like the metal bit circled

cheers. how exactly do u connect the red wire to the battery? is there another fitment, or do i just have it securly connected, metal to metal. also, soes the fuse need to be put into the fusebox at all? or just left in line

The small end of the fuseholder needs to have the ring connector on it (or be securely trapped by a washer under the nut - a ring terminal is best). The long end of the fuseholder is the output, and may be a bare wire or may have a flat blade connector on it. Halfords sell the connectors. The output should be insulated from everything else, either by using an insulated mating connector or with insulation tape (or both). You don't need to go via the car's fusebox because you have a dedicated fuse at the battery end of your line.

I've seen to many burnt out wiring looms etc from ill fitted accessories such as neon lights etc.

Just thinking of your safety and the well being of your car.

Or people trying to botch together the wiring from a pair of mismatched 10 pin connectors.

ok that didnt work

Only connect onto the upper row of the 10mm nuts. The bottom row are the supplied side of the circuit so you are adding to that fused circuit and may effect what the fuse supplies.

bryand, what do u mean the small and long end?

You may not have a long end on your type of fuse holder, does it look like this?...

yeah it does, but its way back in the cable. not near the end

Right you need to do this then..

For safety sake you have to have the fuse as close as possible to the supply.

Even if it means cutting into what ever your fitting and moving the fuse along a bit or adding another length of wire using some new insulated spade terminals.

yeah the other end (consumer) goes straight into the control box, thats not a worry.

so i just need to get a connector for the power supply end?

I guess so. What are you fitting?

remote central locking kit. cost me 36 quid from ebay. my worry tho: its a piece of s*** n i get locked in or locked out or sumthin. i spoke to skoda n its 175 quid to get remote central locking and thats not even fitted! have u got central locking?

When fitting remote CDL you dont normally go direct to the battery. You pick the live up from the terminal 30 connections up behind the drivers undertray trim.

Is it a genuine Skoda part?

no :confused:

Its not a gen Skoda part I guess you mean then.

Is it a complete alarm or is it an interface for exsisting central door locking?

no, it defo not skoda, its a universal one. its a complete upgrade. i have manually locking doors. there is cables so u can connect to an alarm but its not got an in built alarm itself

So it has solenoids to fit into the doors etc?

yeah. mounting brackets, the works. my pal is a mechanic, hes goin 2 help me take the doors off n mout the solenoids. its just the electric i dont want to muck up

Well if your pal is a mechanic he should be able to wire up a simple 12v supply.

Getting the wires through from the doors to the car can be tricky and if your doing rears also there is no routing for the cables at all so you will need to get the rubber ducting and connection housings.