1st on my list to do after fitment as a soon to be responsible HID owner......

Well i am going to take the plunge (which at £25 is worth a dabble) and order some to see how well they compare.....

 

Anyone near Newark/Mansfield/Worksop fancy doing the coding for me????

 

I've got VCDS for fault finding, but I'm not overly happy at changing codings

 

I'm sure if you give Shark Performance a ring at Mansfield it would take him a matter of minutes to recode

I've got VCDS for fault finding, but I'm not overly happy at changing codings

 

I'm sure if you give Shark Performance a ring at Mansfield it would take him a matter of minutes to recode

 

Trying to tie Ben down for longer than 30 seconds is about as likely as winning this weeks lottery....... 

Trying to tie Ben down for longer than 30 seconds is about as likely as winning this weeks lottery....... 

 

He knows his stuff though  

Well i am going to take the plunge (which at £25 is worth a dabble) and order some to see how well they compare.....

 

Anyone near Newark/Mansfield/Worksop fancy doing the coding for me????

Just be sure to get the 5k kit.

Best light from them.

I can't agree there. I have a 4300k in the hatchback, 5000k in the estate, both identical kits from londoncolour, and the 4300k without any doubt throw the better light on the road.

 

Mike

Phew, i opted for the 4300k kit.....

I can't agree there. I have a 4300k in the hatchback, 5000k in the estate, both identical kits from londoncolour, and the 4300k without any doubt throw the better light on the road.

 

Mike

And I have to disagree with you there.

 

I had the 5k kit in my 2010 vRS

4300k kit in my 2012 vRS

 

and now back to 5k kit in my 2013 vRS

5k is much whiter and brighter hands down.

I'm putting my money on the comparison that can be made from day to day, swapping between the two.

 

Hence I chose 4300K.

 

Whilst I haven't experienced 5000K I do have a 4300K London Colour kit in one car and a genuine factory 4300K set-up in another car, I can't tell the difference.

 

I'm sure there is a reason Skoda chose 4300K. Maybe this set up just works better in their design of headlight?

 

I think the xenon's on the Mazda 6 are around 6000K and they are much bluer in colour to any other manufacturer I've seen.

And I have to disagree with you there.

I had the 5k kit in my 2010 vRS

4300k kit in my 2012 vRS

and now back to 5k kit in my 2013 vRS

5k is much whiter and brighter hands down.

The problem lies with how the seller has the bulbs marked up, one seller will mark them all up correctly whereas another may not.

You can't argue the fact that 4,300 Kelvin is a brighter and whiter colour than 5,000 Kelvin as a blue tint has then started to be introduced.

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Anyone around Galway, Ireland have a vcds that could do the coding after I get the kit?

The problem lies with how the seller has the bulbs marked up, one seller will mark them all up correctly whereas another may not.

You can't argue the fact that 4,300 Kelvin is a brighter and whiter colour than 5,000 Kelvin as a blue tint has then started to be introduced.

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All of my kits were purchased from Londoncolor so I can only assume each set is marked as should be.

 

As for 4300 kelvin and 5000 kelvin,

I personally find the 5000 whiter due to the extra "blue" in them

the 4300 were clearly more yellow than the 5000,

I personally find the 5000 much sharper to the eye.

I have been looking into doing this but can't find a beginning to end vcds dummies guide on coding them in.  I have the kit but not to happy about going in and messing about without any guidance.  I did see a xenon coding guide on here but it didn't start from the beginning just sort of jumped in at the point where the coding was done. 

 

I was after more of an idiots guide.  Connect vcds to car, load up software, select "????" then "????" etc.

 

Thanks

Fantastic.  I will get this sorted then order the kit.  I believe you can do the vcds coding before getting around to actually fitting.

 

Thanks

My kit arrives tomorrow.

 

Does anyone know if i will have problems if i fit the kit prior to getting the coding done?

 

At a minimum i assume you will get a bulb fault light on the dashboard? Will it cause any other problems???

My kit arrives tomorrow.

 

Does anyone know if i will have problems if i fit the kit prior to getting the coding done?

 

At a minimum i assume you will get a bulb fault light on the dashboard? Will it cause any other problems???

Fit them but do not use them until coded.

Fit them but do not use them until coded.

Why?

 

What will happen.........?

Having seen this thread I went ahead and ordered the londoncolour 4300k kit, as normal bulbs will cost in the regions of £10-20 for a decent set I though why not try them.

Having had HID on other cars and having had aftermark HID4U kit before I know how much difference a kit can make.

Installation was as easy as you can get, a lot easier than the Accord! Not a drill or a difficult ballast location needed as it all fitted nicely in the headlight.

Having gone for a drive, I was pleasantly surprised at the increase in light output, and the clarity of the light. Others have commented at the 5000k being a better option, but having had a 5k set before, I prefer these 4300k, but of course understand you can't compare two companies bulb colours as they seem to vary a lot. These ones are definitely not yellow, just a nice clear light with a hint of bluishness.

For £20 odd pounds, they really are a no-brainer!

As for the legal aspect, I've never had an issue with anyone flashing me and the light beam is easily checked on the edge of my white house for any issues.

The previous cars I've had OEM HID have all had the washers turned off due to being a pain, and I've never had an issue with that either.

Hmm for some reason the previous post doesn't show up with any paragraphs and won't allow it in an edit?!

(Awaits with interest to see who makes the first "They're illegal" post)

There not illegal in Ireland which is where he's from"!

Potentially you will damage the central electronics controller, as it will be running 35W headlight units when it expects to find 55W (original halogen). The recode to xenons without shutters tells the controller to expect the lower wattage HID kit

 

Mike

 

Jumping on the bandwagon for a moment....error cancellers were mentioned early on in this thread and so I'm wondering if they're a safe non-VCDS alternative, i.e. would cancellers work for all years (mine is MY10) and would using them mitigate the risk of damage Mike mentions?

 I applied the same logic for my first attempt at fitting HIDs.  I did order and connect some 55watters up and switched on and they worked fine, no error messages, but that was just on and off, no driving and only the once.  The ballast was the size of a shoe box unfortunately.  The only way to fit them would have been to drill the headlamp shell, which I wouldn't do. 

They got sent back and I found LondonColour. 

When I was looking at fitting bi xenons, I found an American site http://www.theretrofitsource.com/  Somewhere they mentioned that most 55w hid's were basically an overdriven "normal" 35w.  I have no personal knowledge either way, but they cautioned against the 55w if I remember correctly.

Somebody on here did fit 55w hid's at some point.
The only thing i can remember about them was the Brights seemed non existent because the dims were so bright.

On the other hand, I wonder if HIDs + cancellers is just another way of saying CANBUS Friendly HIDs, which most agree is not the way to go. Must admit, it would be convenient if cancellers solve the issue as they're only £7 or £8 extra.

I'm sure i read somewhere (HID Planet maybe) that the 55W ballast has a shorter lifespan compared to 35W.

 

I know VCDS is the more proven solution to all this, but would be good to know if these alternatives are remotely feasible.

I would personally go with non canbus + Coding.
I have done this to my 3 vRS octys over the past 3 years and never had an issue with them.