ooooooooooo so leaky flexi could be cause confusing mixture, sounds like its when it comes off the warm up phase of fueling map.

TBH i couldnt remember as its a long time since i worked on these engines in polo 6n

Edited 30 December, 201312 yr by spud31

Frogz, do you have access to VCDS?

Hi,

 

Just to stay I really appreciate the time people are taking to help me with this.

 

I do not have access to VCDS.  I have access to Torque as an android app and scantool via a USB link to PC.

 

I am still puzzled that this issue only seems to happen when starting and driving from cold (as in left overnight)  - it can go for miles without recurring once the fault code is cancelled and does not happen after the car has stopped and cooled  (but not got fully cold) and then restarted and driven.  It seems to me it can not be a permanent fault like a leak or even a corroded contact but having said that I am not sure what it is.

 

Where is the charcoal canister - I'll have a look at that?

 

Possibly a complete red herring but I drove the car for a few miles without the engine cover on and no fualt codes appeared... what that tells me if anything I do not know!  It does go better like that but of course I would not drive for long without a filter - I may fit a cone filter and see what happens...

 

Regards

 

Frogz

Hi,

 

Just to stay I really appreciate the time people are taking to help me with this.

 

I do not have access to VCDS.  I have access to Torque as an android app and scantool via a USB link to PC.

 

I am still puzzled that this issue only seems to happen when starting and driving from cold (as in left overnight)  - it can go for miles without recurring once the fault code is cancelled and does not happen after the car has stopped and cooled  (but not got fully cold) and then restarted and driven.  It seems to me it can not be a permanent fault like a leak or even a corroded contact but having said that I am not sure what it is.

 

Where is the charcoal canister - I'll have a look at that?

 

Possibly a complete red herring but I drove the car for a few miles without the engine cover on and no fualt codes appeared... what that tells me if anything I do not know!  It does go better like that but of course I would not drive for long without a filter - I may fit a cone filter and see what happens...

 

Regards

 

Frogz

 

The only possible explanations for your 'red herring' is that having the cover off kept your cam position sensor cooler or that the temperature controlled flap in the airbox is stuck in the cold position sucking air from the exhaust manifold when the engine is hot.

Hi

 

As the car ran OK with the cover off I checked the flap that should automatically switch from hot air off of the manifold to cold air. This was stuck on taking hot air off of the manifold and was unresponsive to heating.  I have glued this with High temp silicon in the cold air supply position and put the cover back on.

 

Since then no more engine codes:-)

 

So, as Sepulchrave worked out, the red herring was not a red herring after all...

 

Why this issue with that flap should make the ecu throw a P0106 fault code about manifold pressure and the ESP light to come on  I do not know....

But in any event, at the moment, it appears sorted - having driven well over 100miles and no engine light coming on (we shall see - fingers crossed)

 

Thanks again for all the help people.

 

regards

 

Frogz

Good to hear Frogz, the MAP code is likely to be because the MAP sensor integrates the air intake temperature sensor along with manifold absolute pressure function, the ECU is unable to distinguish between the two functions in the event of an implausible signal.

 

I believe the flap is supposed to be in the cold air supply position unless the ambient temperature is below freezing, only then will the flap pull air from the exhaust manifold to prevent throttle body icing, obviously this function is much more important in places like Scandinavia, but you should be aware that throttle body icing is a possibility if we get a severe cold snap in the next couple of months.

This COLD/HOT air changing mechanism seems to get blamed for a few obscure problems, I'd need to check back when the MAP fault codes have been thrown up in the past with my wife's Polo with the BBY engine, so far (a foolish statement) this winter, this BBY engine thing has not thrown out any fault codes - now that I've cleaned out the EGR valve pipe port at the throttle body and reduced its thirst for oil by replacing the air/oil separator.

 

I'm surprised that, as far as I know, there is no aftermarket interest in supplying a replacement assembly of parts - even though it is only screwed on to the main filter/cover. I might go looking for trouble and try to check it out including cleaning the linkage, if that is worth while.

 

I'm guessing the newer smaller filter assembly that gets fitted to current cars, has a different set up, or at least does not seem to draw air from the front of the engine bay.

Well Frogz, after replying to you I decided to pop out and check my airbox, guess what, same problem!

 

After dismantling the airbox I looked at the problem and scratched my head for a few minutes before I figured out that the small brass canister which controls the flap could be removed and flipped round, so I did this and now my flap too is locked into cold air feed mode.

 

I haven't had the problems with MAP codes and EPC light that you have, but I have had problems with erratic idle, stalling in town and rough starting when hot which quietens down once at cruising speeds out of town. The car has always started and run perfectly from cold.

 

Fingers crossed.

Just to throw a spanner in the works.....................

 

I don't have any of the OEM air filter, hot/cold air flap, etc as I got rid of it all & built my own C.A.I. system. Never had any fault codes or throttle body icing,  The only thing I do is in winter I fit a partial blanking plate to the hole in the slam panel which cuts of 2/3 of the cold air from outside. Considering that I have left my car in a freezing blizzard at Cairngorm Mountain, even during the really bad (good) winters of 09/10 & 10/11!! Cars been fine, started ok, pulls like a train, (for it's size)..............

How is that a spanner?

 

If we apply distillation to that we get:

 

"The car will be absolutely fine locked in cold-air feed mode, it simply doesn't get cold enough ANYWHERE here in the UK for it to be a problem".

 

That's good news and means that the fix can be permanent.

How is that a spanner?

 

If we apply distillation to that we get:

 

"The car will be absolutely fine locked in cold-air feed mode, it simply doesn't get cold enough ANYWHERE here in the UK for it to be a problem".

 

That's good news and means that the fix can be permanent.

 

Put it this way ..........I wouldn't like to risk joining my C.A.I. directly to the hole in the slam panel & not blocking it at all for winter! Where I live (Mainland UK) I have seen -18C on the temp display on the dash & that is within 1C of my house outside temp sensor! As I state I block the hole 2/3 in winter & my C.A.I. inlet is set back from the slam panel hole like the OEM filter housing inlet.

 

As for icing I have had that happen to a previous car (VW Polo) when I got rid of the OEM filter & housing & fitted a K&N "grassbox" style filter............Pierburg throttle would ice up at high speed........just survived one mild winter!...........temps down to -5C..............then refitted the OEM filter with the hot air flap etc.............then no problems!!

Fab, we're talking about the standard airbox, it's not joined to the front panel, it's set back as you point out.

 

Pierburg is not multipoint port injection, it's single point throttle body injection and would ice like mad.

 

Is it ok or not do you think, or is this now all about you?

Fab, we're talking about the standard airbox, it's not joined to the front panel, it's set back as you point out.

 

Pierburg is not multipoint port injection, it's single point throttle body injection and would ice like mad.

 

Is it ok or not do you think, or is this now all about you?

 

.Eh?????????

 

If you live were it is cold (even in the UK) I would defo rig up a warm air diverter. Or partially block the cold air hole in the slam panel, as I recon in winter you could have problems........which is why I partially block the cold air hole in the slam panel on my Fabia.

 

So to sum I would not recommend making the standard air box cold air only in winter whilst allowing lots of cold air in through the slam panel hole.

Glad this experience has been of help to others.

 

I may rig up a manual  'Switch / slider' to bleed in a little hot air if it get really cold - just like the good old days! I remember having to turn the whole top of the air filter towards the inlet manifold on one of my early cars each winter!

 

At the moment all is well  - no fault codes popping up.

 

Cheers

 

Frog

I wonder if this thread is really the same thing happening?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/298991-16490-manifoldbarometric-pressure-sensor-g71f96-p0106-35-00-implausible-signal/

 

I guess Egyptian air would be rather hot by the time it's been drawn past an exhaust manifold, if the mixer flap is stuck in the hot position.

 

Can't work out why the ECU wouldn't spot it as dodgy air temp rather than dodgy pressure though, the intake temp sensor is a separate entity (though packaged together with G71) on the 1.2, 'G42' with its own set of fault codes. Is it not on the 1.4?

Hi,

 

I have not replaced the fuel filter and do not know when it was last done - I think I have one so will replace that. I am using 98 ron (v-power) fuel.

 

I'll have a crack at the manifold - looks like 6 allen bolts hold it on...

 

Thanks everyone - I let you all know if I sort it.

 

regards

 

Frogz

 

Some advise you should follow when purchasing any car, unless you know exactly when the last time the fuel filter, air filter and oil was last changed through forms of receipts or book stamps, then dont wait another second change them yourself straight away and start your own personal service track record.

 

As for the cam belt, I would judge on No. of miles on the car to predict when to change if I didn't know for sure, if you have no proof of a cam belt change and the car is on say 60-90k then I would do it straight away assuming its missed its first 60k due change, since usually with a car of these miles you would have proof of the belt change had it been done. If I was over 90k and under 120k and the car seemed well looked after then I would leave it assuming the previous owners where not so stupid take good care of the car and not have the belt changed at some point between 60 and 80k, and then just assume it was done at 60k and change it again at 120k.

 

anything over 120k without evidence of a cam belt change within the last 60k then I would get it changed straight away, too bad if you paid a fair price for the car as if it had followed good basic service practice, without the evidence to support such claims, such claims are not worth **** and cant be trusted, so cars lacking such evidence are not worth as much even if they have had the work without the proof, simply because a sensible owner would have to get these jobs done again anyway with cam belt giving you a £500 to £600 service due the day you purchase the car, something worth baring in mind when buying the car. If its too late this time then just take the £500-£600 over price shafting and least you will know better next time.