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16490 -manifold\barometric pressure sensor (G71)(f96) p0106-35-00 implausible signal


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skoda fabia 1200 3 clider

i change Map sensor but care not fixed hive me this fault

 

still give this fault

16490 -manifold\barometric pressure sensor (G71)(f96) p0106-35-00 implausible signal

 

wat cane i do ????

wer is the baro sensor ??????

Edited by MohamedKaram
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G71 is part of a combined pressure/temperature sensor. It is located on the inlet manifold below the throttle control unit. It has a four pin connector.

If it's not the sensor itself, then check the brown/blue wire that runs from pin 3 of the G71 connector to pin 96 of the ECU

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MAP sensor is the same thing as "manifold\barometric pressure sensor".

You have already changed it so (assuming the new sensor is OK) it must be one of the other problems listed:

 

Wiring/connection

Air leak

ECU problem

 

Or, as it says lower on the Ross-tech page...

 

"On certain smaller Engines we've seen cases where a buggy Engine Control Unit Firmware can cause these fault codes, additionally there are known Problems with the Timing Chain Tensioners which can also result in these fault codes. Please refer to the related TPL/TSB for more instructions."

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MAP sensor is the same thing as "manifold\barometric pressure sensor".

You have already changed it so (assuming the new sensor is OK) it must be one of the other problems listed:

 

Wiring/connection

 

G71 is part of a combined pressure/temperature sensor. It is located on the inlet manifold below the throttle control unit. It has a four pin connector.

If it's not the sensor itself, then check the brown/blue wire that runs from pin 3 of the G71 connector to pin 96 of the ECU

 

ECU problem

 

Or, as it says lower on the Ross-tech page...

 

"On certain smaller Engines we've seen cases where a buggy Engine Control Unit Firmware can cause these fault codes, additionally there are known Problems with the Timing Chain Tensioners which can also result in these fault codes. Please refer to the related TPL/TSB for more instructions."

i do that but ok

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MAP sensor is the same thing as "manifold\barometric pressure sensor".

You have already changed it so (assuming the new sensor is OK) it must be one of the other problems listed:

 

Wiring/connection

Air leak

ECU problem

 

Or, as it says lower on the Ross-tech page...

 

"On certain smaller Engines we've seen cases where a buggy Engine Control Unit Firmware can cause these fault codes, additionally there are known Problems with the Timing Chain Tensioners which can also result in these fault codes. Please refer to the related TPL/TSB for more instructions."

yes i have my Exhaust is brok and box Exhaust is empty about 2 yers old withe Exhaust leak was very good

my care was very good no proplem withe Exhaust leak

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All your questions have been answered - what do you need to know?

thx but

 i have my Exhaust is brok and box Exhaust is empty about 2 yers old withe Exhaust leak was very good

my care was very good no proplem withe Exhaust leak

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If the wiring and the sensor are good, then the next most likely cause is a problem with timing chain/tensioner. I would have the timing checked as soon as possible in case it's jumped a tooth.

When the error occurs due to bad firmware, you usually get fault code 16684 too.

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If the wiring and the sensor are good, then the next most likely cause is a problem with timing chain/tensioner. I would have the timing checked as soon as possible in case it's jumped a tooth. When the error occurs due to bad firmware, you usually get fault code 16684 too.

 

Good point, although you'd think he'd hear a timing chain tensioner problem causing enough cam scatter to precipitate this fault.

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Good point, although you'd think he'd hear a timing chain tensioner problem causing enough cam scatter to precipitate this fault.

Most owners describe it 'a little rattly' at tickover.

Other symptoms are unstable idle (may even cut out when cold), reduced MPG and reduced performance.

My guess is that if a mechanic looks through the cam inspection caps (gearbox end) the cams won't be properly aligned.

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Get a cheap obd2 reader and an Android phone and download torque and log the map sensor readings, so you've definitely checked the wiring. Implausible signal to me means it's not getting readings it's expecting eg 0-5v converted to pressure readings.

You should see vacuum and it increase to positive pressure when your putting your foot down basically you should get some different readings.

No offence, but how have you managed to pick up English chav talk when your in Egypt?

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The barometric pressure sensor F96 is built into the ECU, it measures atmospheric pressure so that it can make adjustments due to the altitude of the vehicle.  You need to thoroughly check the inlet for any leaks, the manifold, brake servo pipes, breather pipes, EGR system, throttle body and anything else. 

 

It'll be useful to record any data such as mentioned earlier the inlet manifold pressure which will vary between atmospheric (1000mbar) down to maximum vacuum (around 250mbar) and it should change as you open the throttle.

 

I don't know if you can get a pressure reading from the barometric pressure sensor, but you should be able to see a heights correction factor which will be derived from the barometric pressure sensor.

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If the wiring from the ECU to the MAP sensor has tested good then you need an ECU firmware upgrade and you can only get this from a Skoda dealer.
 
The exhaust system condition is not relevant at all.

 

 

in the last i will do that ....... thx replay

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If the wiring and the sensor are good, then the next most likely cause is a problem with timing chain/tensioner. I would have the timing checked as soon as possible in case it's jumped a tooth. When the error occurs due to bad firmware, you usually get fault code 16684 too.

never get me this fault code

cane i check  timing chain tensioner problem?

Edited by MohamedKaram
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Get a cheap obd2 reader and an Android phone and download torque and log the map sensor readings, so you've definitely checked the wiring. Implausible signal to me means it's not getting readings it's expecting eg 0-5v converted to pressure readings.

You should see vacuum and it increase to positive pressure when your putting your foot down basically you should get some different readings.

No offence, but how have you managed to pick up English chav talk when your in Egypt?

i will looking for obd2 reader

sory my english is bad

my study in egypt have alot of english and i see alot of englishe movi :) :)

thx bro for replay 

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Yes, you can check the timing yourself.

 

At the end of the head nearest the gearbox there are two cam inspection caps, as mentioned above by rwbaldwin.  Remove these caps and you can see some slots in the ends of the cams:

 

715935c4.jpg

 

The slots on the two cams should be parallel to each other if the chain has not slipped between the two cams.

 

You can also check crank-to-cam timing by removing all sparkplugs (so the engine is easy to rotate) and inserting a 'probe' down onto the piston of cylinder No.1 to find its height.

When No.1 piston is at the top of its travel, the cam slots should be horizontal (parallel to the head gasket), like this:

 

7fece79d.jpg

 

The cam sprockets have 36 teeth, so the minimum angle error  between them if the chain slips one tooth is 10 degrees, which you can see by eye, I think, so no need to make the flat bars like I did.

The crank sprocket has only 18 teeth, so a slip there will cause both cams to be 20 degrees away from horizontal when No.1 piston is at the top, which you would easily see.

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Yes, you can check the timing yourself.

 

At the end of the head nearest the gearbox there are two cam inspection caps, as mentioned above by rwbaldwin.  Remove these caps and you can see some slots in the ends of the cams:

 

715935c4.jpg

 

The slots on the two cams should be parallel to each other if the chain has not slipped between the two cams.

 

You can also check crank-to-cam timing by removing all sparkplugs (so the engine is easy to rotate) and inserting a 'probe' down onto the piston of cylinder No.1 to find its height.

When No.1 piston is at the top of its travel, the cam slots should be horizontal (parallel to the head gasket), like this:

 

7fece79d.jpg

 

The cam sprockets have 36 teeth, so the minimum angle error  between them if the chain slips one tooth is 10 degrees, which you can see by eye, I think, so no need to make the flat bars like I did.

The crank sprocket has only 18 teeth, so a slip there will cause both cams to be 20 degrees away from horizontal when No.1 piston is at the top, which you would easily see.

see this pic r u see eny wrong ???????

post-111420-0-15159500-1387936648_thumb.jpg

post-111420-0-47671700-1387936659_thumb.jpg

post-111420-0-07265800-1387936670_thumb.jpg

post-111420-0-37217100-1387936680_thumb.jpg

post-111420-0-10919500-1387936692_thumb.jpg

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Your pictures are not clear enough to see.  Can you take some more with a better camera, and label each picture with "exhaust cam" or "inlet cam"?

Try to get the screw hole for the cover at the top of each picture (like the last picture), so the comparison is easier. 

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Your pictures are not clear enough to see.  Can you take some more with a better camera, and label each picture with "exhaust cam" or "inlet cam"?

Try to get the screw hole for the cover at the top of each picture (like the last picture), so the comparison is easier. 

ok bro i will bring anather camera

but this better camera i have it

i will try to get better camera

Edited by MohamedKaram
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