Sorry to drag up a dying thread, but I still want to discover the answer, which I feel may not yet be clear...

 

as you say, once the engine is bedded down, modern oils are capable of keeping the engine in fine fettle.  The first and early oil change is, or always was, about getting the metal particles and rubbish out, from the initial run and bedding in.

 

That's what I always thought too.

 

I'd say if it makes you feel better then do it, but if there was any need whatsoever then the manufacturers would make it a requirement in order to maintain the warranty. The fact that they don't speaks volumes to me. 

 

I understand that you're trying to save a few quid by doing it yourself but why not save even more by just sticking to the prescribed service intervals which are absolutely fine and if anything, still over cautious?

 

Yes, but prescribed services are designed for the length of warranty, after that, I would be surprised if the makers care.

If you intend to keep the car long term, and want it as trouble free as possible after the warranty, especially on a turbocharged car, one would have thought changing the oil at 1k to rid the worst of the bits of fine metal floating about after initial stage of bed in might be prudent ? 

I am not looking to cause an argument, just would like to know if the OP has a valid point

 

 

Yes, but prescribed services are designed for the length of warranty, after that, I would be surprised if the makers care.

 

Just think about that, car manufacturer gets a reputation for cars having major issues after the warranty has expired.... What do you think they'll do for new car sales?

The VRS TSI is hardly a highly stressed engine, and in my opinion requires no special treatment other than scheduled oil changes with decent oil. The recommendation for my old Subarus (which produced much more power and revved much higher 15 years ago) was to run standard non-synthetic oil for the first 1000 miles to allow the engine to settle. After that fill with semi-synthetic and thrash the crap out of it. I sold my remapped 310bhp STI IV after 4 years, 70k miles and lots of track days without it ever suffering any engine related issues. All it needed was was regular services and decent oil. Modern VAG engines should easily reach 150k if you stick to the standard servicing regime, even if you use them hard.

Edited 17 February, 201412 yr by Orville

Sure, it might not be that stressed, but regardless its still got a turbo spinning at very high rpm, mechanical sympathy makes the thought of particles of metal from bedding in swooshing around that quite a horrible thought. 

Maybe manufacturing tolerances are so much better these days, that that's not an issue  ?

My belief is that the manufacturers recommended servicing intervals leave more than sufficient safety margins. If these engines required more regular servicing or early initial oil changes VAG would ask us all to return them more frequently.

 

You can also wax your car much more often, but will doing so every week make a noticeable long-term difference when compared to waxing once per month or once every quarter? There becomes a point when you are not actually improving things, merely wasting time and money.

 

There is also an argument that used (but still good condition) oil creates less internal friction than brand new oil. For this reason replacing oil too regularly is not recommended.

Edited 18 February, 201412 yr by Orville

Whats the advice pls on running in a new engine? Not so concerned about the Brakes and the Tyres but is the engine pre-run in these days?

 

Do we need to drive carefully up to 1500 Ks?

 

Dealer says no need as they are "run in" already in the factory - but not sure if that is just "French attitude"...

 

Is it OK to floor it from 0 Ks or is that asking for trouble?

 

 

New engine

The engine has to be run in during the first 1500 kilometres.

Up to 1000 kilometres

› Do not drive faster than 3/4 of the maximum speed of the gear in use, i.e. 3/4 of

the maximum permissible engine speed.

› No full throttle.

› Avoid high engine speeds.

› Do not tow a trailer.

From 1000 up to 1500 kilometres

Gradually increase the power output of the engine up to the full speed of the

gear engaged, i.e. up to the maximum permissible engine speed

New brake pads
New brake pads initially do not provide optimal braking performance. They first need to be “run in”. Drive especially carefully for the first 200 km or so.

New tyres
New tyres have to be “run in” since they do not offer optimal grip at first. Drive especially carefully for the first 500 km or so.

Our 1.6 VVT Vauxhall Astra had Forte treatments as part of a main dealer service and IMHO it drives better as a consequence; seems a bit smoother and free revving compared to how it was before.