A friend of mine had the "Teeraclean" treatment done on his vw golf 1.8t & the amount of crap that came out was shocking,car is like a different car now,runs sweet & throttle response has improved & economy is up.Might be worth a try before you spend a lot of money on a dealer taking the engine apart to clean it all up? 

Used to find a good few thrashed down motorway used to cure the mitsubishi DI engines rough idle and lack of power,

 

Short town journeys are no good for modern engines petrol or diesel altho the issue has been around for years

There seems to be a lot of misunderstanding about the issue in this thread.

There's a build-up of carbon on the inlet valves. This is because (as one poster stated) the injectors are after the inlets & therefore they don't get fuel washed. Vw have now (more or less) admitted the issue & the new Mk7 GTI engine has injectors in the cylinder & additional injectors in the inlet (wait & see what happens when the tuners start playing with the injection timing & sequencing of these).

An Italian tune won't have any affect at all on the inlets. Extra chemicals in the fuel won't help either. WHat does help slightly is running low SAPs oil (VW504/507). Another big help is running a catch can off the PCV system. Water/Meth injection is brilliant at keeping things clean but very much the realm of the enthusiast.

They shouldn't have to pull the head off, they can pull the inlet off & either use a wallnut blaster or carbon cleaning chemicals, metal picks & wire brushes.

For early intervention you can remove the air temp sensor on the manifold & spray in some carbon clean (Subaru Upper Cylinder Cleaner is good) & let it soak for a while, then spray more in while the vehicle is running. You can even get a garden sprayer with a 50:50 water:white spirit mix & spray that into the inlet manifold while the engine is running just before every service (it contaminates the oil quite badly). There are plenty of clips on Youtube about it. The Yanks have been suffering with their Golf GTIs for years.

Sorry about the formatting. There's some form of incompatibility between my PC & the forum software

Have you not told the garage that you regularly drive it hard anyway, so it cannot be a symptom of your driving, therefore you cannot be in any way responsible?

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A ton of interesting information and comments - this is what a proper owner's forum is all about!

 

I can confirm that during the long, protracted discussion with SUK, the point about it being driven 'properly' was made - however, as I bought it used there's no way of knowing that the previous owner (from new) did so during the 20k he had it for. Could be that's where all the damage came from, not warmed up, loads of small journey'd, lower quality fuel etc. I can only guarantee the type of driving since I took ownership which isn't ragging it half as often as it needs but neither is it Driving Miss Daisy - although, if speak to the missus she'll confirm that my average competency behind the wheel has been even worse since getting a VRS which is a little more brisk than my previous barges! I try to argue using the VRS in the appropriate way is healthy for the car (before it borked) and a safety precaution to get past the idiots but she's having none of it.  

 

SUK did comment that as the vehicle is older (6yrs) then they felt it difficult to justify a full goodwill gesture - I appreciate all the advice on this but if that's their stance then I think this is one time I'm going to have to swallow the bill and decide whether to keep or punt the thing once it's back. Hoping it doesn't come with any new weird noises or vibrations as  I know the other half has lost all confidence in it already. Maybe a little harsh but it does put a thought in the mind whether changing for another (even if new) will mean the same issues a couple of years down the line.

Quick update – credit card hammered but car back! The weather too filthy to doublecheck for leaks (although not expecting any) but it seems to be running a lot smoother so problem seems fixed. I’ve also taken the opportunity to get the water pump / timing belt kit done as half the engine was stripped (due in a few months) which saved a few £££s in labour costs. There’s a running in period of a few hundred miles but after that it’s getting the beans for testing purposes and so that every bit of fuel is properly used!

The question now is whether to keep or punt it. Technically it’s in the best condition ever - shiny new parts - but is this combination of half new parts / half old parts something that will cause other problems further down the line or is that just worrying about nothing?

If your still happy with the car then id keep it,combination of new & old bits is nothing to worry about. 

What exactly did they do to it in the end?

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What exactly did they do to it in the end?

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At last! Managed to get an itemised bill - cylinder head removed, valves were found to be sticking (completely gummed up) so all valves replaced, inc. inlet and exhaust valves and gaskets. Brilliant, no more hesitation / misfire .... in fact it runs even better BUT  lo and behold if I've now got an engine rattle when sitting at idle.

 

It's loud, tappety and the garage can't locate where it's coming from until it 'gets worse'. Bloody cars, great when they work and a pig to diagnose if it's not something obvious. The question is now what could it be (ie. do I persevere to find the fault) or just put it down!   :wonder:   It's no as if it's not working, has been a great car until now but where the hell has this annoying noise come from that wasn't there before this top end rebuild was done. WTF! 

The engine rattle wasnt there before they removed the cyl head & stripped it all down..........not acceptable to me......id take it back & tell them to sort out the rattle f.o.c......to tell you to wait until it gets worse is a joke,you have paid all that money & now got a fault that wasnt there before. 

"It's loud, tappety and the garage can't locate where it's coming from until it 'gets worse'."

 

Did you get this in writing from the garage?

They've noted on the Skoda UK car history record that this rattle has only become apparent since the fix of the original misfire fault so that if/when they can identify it (routine service due in a few months - that idea was everything  would have bedded in by then...and possibly automagically fixed itself I bet  ) then it'll be a F.O.C fix. They have also noted on record that they can't diagnose the current fault so I will be covered if the damn thing breaks. More the frustration that they simply don't have the knowledge to find out what the hell it is. It's pretty much the same as : 

 

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/124095-loud-rattling-noise-when-idling-when-engine-warm/

 

It was when I was told it could be a ton of guesswork - they had it for a day and out with the stethoscope to check where it might come from (silent when cold, only when it warms up) and couldn't identify it. Unless anyone has any ideas that I could ask to be checked? Put it this way, overall I've not had the car for about 4wks between arguing about the warranty with Skoda UK, crap weather and waiting for parts etc. Can't really do without the car any longer for them to 'guess'.

Well I guess it rules out your question of being able to sell it - how can they expect you to sell something that is in an audibly 'faulty' state?

 

I'd argue for them to re-check everything... its not like they haven't messed you around enough - you appear to have been very patient who's to know the knock on effect that this could be having (that from the sound of it, they would deny further down the line anyways based on past behaviour)

 

You mention being without the car, again, I'd argue for a like-for-like courtesy car

Edited 19 February, 201412 yr by looking_to_buy

Listened to your video, my first thought was that it sounds just like one of my old cars with the tappet clearances too high, like when they put it back together they didn't put enough shims between the valves and camshaft. 

Ian

Sounds like an old Diesel engine, hope you finally get it sorted soon.

Sounds just like my 06 vrs. And my new one. Tinkly tappetty sounds are everywhere on new engines, that's why they all have acoustically deadening engine covers these days as high pressure fuel injection sounds like a cam train on its last legs.

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Sounds just like my 06 vrs. And my new one. Tinkly tappetty sounds are everywhere on new engines, that's why they all have acoustically deadening engine covers these days as high pressure fuel injection sounds like a cam train on its last legs.

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Yup.. whenever I hear a VAG CR I can tell straight away without even looking that it's a VAG CR.

 

They have a really fully ticky kind of noise about them.

 

Phil

This one is a petrol & wasnt rattling before the garage stripped the engine though...........

A ton of interesting information and comments - this is what a proper owner's forum is all about!

 

I can confirm that during the long, protracted discussion with SUK, the point about it being driven 'properly' was made - however, as I bought it used there's no way of knowing that the previous owner (from new) did so during the 20k he had it for. Could be that's where all the damage came from, not warmed up, loads of small journey'd, lower quality fuel etc. I can only guarantee the type of driving since I took ownership which isn't ragging it half as often as it needs but neither is it Driving Miss Daisy - although, if speak to the missus she'll confirm that my average competency behind the wheel has been even worse since getting a VRS which is a little more brisk than my previous barges! I try to argue using the VRS in the appropriate way is healthy for the car (before it borked) and a safety precaution to get past the idiots but she's having none of it.  

 

SUK did comment that as the vehicle is older (6yrs) then they felt it difficult to justify a full goodwill gesture - I appreciate all the advice on this but if that's their stance then I think this is one time I'm going to have to swallow the bill and decide whether to keep or punt the thing once it's back. Hoping it doesn't come with any new weird noises or vibrations as  I know the other half has lost all confidence in it already. Maybe a little harsh but it does put a thought in the mind whether changing for another (even if new) will mean the same issues a couple of years down the l

 

 

Does the manual state "must be ragged to make it work", "not suitable for short journeys", "95 RON fuel is not recommended". If not I'd be telling them to jog on and having their lives. 

That sounds like a combination of injector ticking and incorrect valve clearances. I would get them to check those clearances.

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