Jason,

MDF is only dodgy when cutting - do it outside and wear a face mask and goggles. No joking on this one - the dust kicked up can be fairly nasty if you inhale lots of it!

For a template, try getting hold of a large cardboard box and use the largest flat panel to mark out your template. If you want to be fancy, get a profile gauge - something like this, but bigger if you can find one. It will copy the curves in the boot so you can draw them onto the template or MDF.

Lastly in the MDF department, remember the old saying: Measure twice, cut once

I did think about using the boot carpet as a template, but it goes right under the seats and looked well-attached. Didn't investigate further, so it might be possible to use it.....

Buy decent wiring if you can afford it. The power cable should have an in-line fuse holder which goes at the battery-end of things. Run it down the passenger side of the car as Rob outlined above. Do the same for the remote lead and audio outputs from the head unit down the driver side.

My leads run through the sills and then come out under the backs of the rear seats, although you should be able to route them directly into the boot if you can be bothered

All a distribution block does is provide a point for >=1 connections to be made to the power lead from the battery, whilst also enabling you to fuse each individual connection. The more fuses the better, as you want to minimise the chances of a live wire from the battery shorting out *anywhere* in the car!

For now, you've pretty much no choice about the layout of the cables into the boot - power and earth are going to be on the passenger's side, and the audio on the driver's side. You could run the remote down whichever side you like, but the driver's side is probably easier. So start thinking about where everything will go, and how you'll interconnect everything... should keep you busy

Jason

The sub is a Diamond Audio unit, it can handle a true 500w @ 4 ohms. Here are some pics.

Here is a pic of the face, the box is underneath.

Cheers, Des - But, it's in my boot now so I shan't bother looking at the pics... :speaker:

BTW - The amp is called a "Rockford Fosgate Punch 100.2 Amplifier" - It sounds good and looked the daddy on the ebay piccie. - I found a quick review - not sure what to make of it...?

"Rockford Fosgate's Punch series of amplifiers is designed to be cost effective with a moderate feature set, but provide the same high quality as the higher-priced Power series. The 100.2 is the smallest amplifier in the Punch line, but it shares the same features as higher-powered models.

The stereo 100.2 is designed for modest systems where relatively low power is adequate, or where multiple stereo amplifiers are more desirable than one multi-channel amplifier. The 100.2 is rated at 25 watts into two channels at 4 ohms, 50 watts into two channels at 2 ohms or 100 watts into one at 4 ohms. In each case, RMS power is measured. The amplifier has two RCA inputs, a bass boost at 45Hz selectable at 0, +6 and +18dB, and a 12dB/octave Butterworth crossover selectable as a 80Hz low-pass or 120Hz high-pass filter. The latter lets you use the 100.2 to drive mid/high channels, or bass channels.

The amplifier also features Topaz circuitry to improve isolation between the input signal ground and chassis ground, Mehsa construction to efficiently dissipate heat from the power transistors, discrete surface mount components, and a Nomad protection circuit. The 100.2 can be used to incrementally upgrade the sound quality from a head unit's built-in amplifiers, and also form the basis for a sophisticated system with multiple amplifiers. "

- Anyone else think this AMP could be a bit woosy to power a 500W sub?

Jason,

You don't have to have a 500W amp to go with your 500W speaker. Given the amp is rated at 100W RMS, I think it will have enough power to jiggle your innards. I think you need to look at the quality of the amp more than just the power. Are there any THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) figures quoted for the amp, and at what output level?

If you want to go any higher, then you'll need to buy a copy of "Now That's What I Call Pimp Music 32" before going any further!

Cheers,

Originally posted by fen_l&k in this post

Jason,

You don't have to have a 500W amp to go with your 500W speaker. Given the amp is rated at 100W RMS, I think it will have enough power to jiggle your innards. I think you need to look at the quality of the amp more than just the power. Are there any THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) figures quoted for the amp, and at what output level?

Quite right - having had a punch amp in a previous car - I can vouch for them -- very good,reliable & powerfull -- what more could a man want

If you want to go any higher, then you'll need to buy a copy of "Now That's What I Call Pimp Music 32" before going any further!

Well that's OK isn't it Howard -- he can borrow your copy!

Cheers,

Copycat!!

Sorry, I've only got up to number 29. ffelan might have a later CD ;)

Originally posted by fen_l&k in this post

Copycat!!

Impersonation is the best form of complement -- apparently

could just also be 'cos I'm a lazy barstuard......

Well, that's re-assuring.

Once it's wired in I won't be playing any pimp music, but I expect my "Ibiza: history of hard dance" CD will get a good hammering! :speaker:

Yeah, it'll be plenty powerful taking into account the size of the car and that you did say you didn't want *nts nts nts*...

Obviously the sub can take more, but do you know how much decent quality amps of that power are? Well worth saving up for one if you want really powerful bass, but it'll more than likely overpower the amplification for the head unit on your mids-and trebles.

If you plug it all in and find you don't like it though, my offer to take it off your hands still stands...

Rob.

huh! Real powerful bass isn't an essential requirement - just some loud crisp music

I was wondering... Does anyone reckon the AMP will come with a remote control for adjusting whilst driving? I kind of assume it will but I'm not sure to be honest? A little toy to play with. yay!

For adjusting anything in particular?

Rob.

Jason you need a Phoenix gold bass cube.. this will let you play with the bass as you drive...

volume mainly, I guess - the rest I can adjust before hand. As for the gold-cube... It sounds very expensive? I think I'll be getting some green undercar neons first.

Think your HU should adjust the volume, though I don't know much about your HU...

Gain you can probably adjust at installation and never need to touch again.

In the grand scheme of things the BassCube isn't all that expensive, but I'd imagine it'd be something you'd want to add in at a later date if you felt you needed it...

Rob.

When you say the "grand scheme" that's not a clue to the price, is it?

Well, I've sent the chq in tonights company outgoing mail, so there's no going back now...

:speaker: :speaker:

J - unless it states it has a remote control, you won't get one! Plus its just another cable you have to run the length of the car!

Volume will be linked to how loud the HU is, most likely...

aah - so if I want the HU relatively low volume, and the sub banging, that won't really be possible? I want to avoid blowing more door speakers if possible... BANG! czzzt, rasssp

IIRC the BassCube is somewhere in the

Originally posted by devonutopia in this post

aah - so if I want the HU relatively low volume, and the sub banging, that won't really be possible? I want to avoid blowing more door speakers if possible... BANG! czzzt, rasssp

That's where you adjust the gain so it'll be relatively loud. I don't think you'd knacker your door speakers anyway, and if you did...well, you needed new ones anyway...

I'd imagine there is a remote gain control available for the amp, but I don't know how much it would be or whether you would really need it...

Rob.

Hmm. I can see my little audio experiment going on for a fair while after the initial installation is completed. Looking forward to it though.

Yeah, more than likely you'll keep building on the setup, and gradually bringing everything up to a higher spec. Don't forget to keep your insurance company informed though, especially when you start spending

Insurance company quote : "we only want you to tell us about modifications that increase top speed and acceleration." - So I think I could fit a 10000W Diamond encrusted amp and not need to tell them.

Think you'd probably start doing panel damage with that sort of power...

With regard to increasing top speed and acceleration, I guess it would depend what you attached your amp to...

Rob.

to the turbo?

10000W was a bit of an exaggeration - I've been told a million times not to!