You don't happen to have the aforementioned "bit of card" at hand still?

You think MDF is OK, given all the health problems with what they glue it together with? I guess the problems are just when you're cutting the stuff up?

If you just want the false floor to go from the rear seats to the boot lip, and from wheel arch to wheel arch, you can get a pretty uncomplicated rectangle shape to measure and cut.

What's all this about MDF being dangerous? Think of all the poor people who have houses built of the stuff from Changing Rooms... Anyway, you're always supposed to wear nasal and eye protection when working with a saw.

Ian's been working with MDF for boot installs for years and it's never done him any...hmm, ok, maybe it explains a lot...

Rob.

Wouldn't the boot carpet itself be quite close as a template? Usually they just pull out ....

Really - I suppose one should wear eye-goggles when strimming too? and chain retardant trousers when using a chain saw.

Never thought about trying to rip out the boot carpet... But it only ever seems to just fold up, as if its tied down somewhere at the back of the seats...

Originally posted by robmawer in this post

Think of all the poor people who have houses built of the stuff from Changing Rooms...

Rob.

I don't think their poor people because of the MDF - it's just that they've had to cope with Carol Smilie and the botch-it gang for a week...

Can't stress enough the importance of correct safety wear...

Look for clips at the back of the boot, the Octy one is fastened in by some small flat spinning things...

Rob.

Quick update - It is... er 20.36, and with one hour to run on the bigger of the AMPs I'm trying to get , I'm the highest bidder at

Hey, even if you don't get it, you'll have really annoyed the person who does get it...

Rob.

Indeed - HAHAHAHA *wicked laughter* - you can watch if you want?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3041964904&category=4950&rd=1

just please don't bid...

Well - There's no way back now, but I've had to shell out

lol. In the time it took to post 3 posts you went from "and I'm prepared to go to

Just what I was thinking Q. Mind you, still a good price over a new one...

Rob.

But they're SOOOOO addictive! - seriously though - I'm not even sure I can afford my

Don't shell out on cables just yet as I might have some bad news re: mStation...

Hey, if you aren't thoroughly delighted with it I'll give you 100 quid for it...

Rob.

Originally posted by Quinten in this post

Don't shell out on cables just yet as I might have some bad news re: mStation...

You've got me intrigued now - but I think the AMP is coming with a whole load of cabling, judging by the piccie on ebay.

and Rob, *sigh -

No, its different than that. Am awaiting call from Blaupunkt about the so called AUX-IN on my headunit. If it turns out the way I think it is then I might have some cables, fuseholder, distribution block, etc, etc. going spare (and hence cheap(er) up for grabs). Oh, and the mStation too :(

Well, it's only an extra fif....nooo, I'm not falling for the trick! :p

Rob.

Oh dear, Q - sorry to hear that! - I wish I knew what the fuseholder and dist.blocks do... being a bit thick.

Jason, you'll need them to power up the amp

But as I said, it depends on Blaupunkt now to get back to me...

Originally posted by devonutopia in this post

I wish I knew what the fuseholder and dist.blocks do... being a bit thick.

Should be an interesting install. Can I come and watch?

:321: Pzzzzzzzzffffffttttt!!!!!!! :blowinup:

You can come and do it for me, anyone. ANYONE?

(or just post some referrances to the many threads on power routing)

My advice is buy American if you can. The best amps on the market on most of the competition boys lips are as follows:

JL Audio, Crystal Audio, Lanzar (which I have 800 watt 4 channel), Phoenix Gold, Audiobahn.

From Europe the best are Audison, Genesis (UK) Resonant Engineering, XTANT,

I would scour EBay for this stuff. There are some serious bargains to be had and I would go for the very best amp that you can, as with cheap amps you will probably get a fair amount of clipping at high levels.

What is the info on your sub? How is it wired? I.e Is it dual ohm, single ohm. What is the power rating?

If you let me know (PM me) I can offer some good advice from my mates as they are total experts in audio, especially amps. Alternatively get yourself logged onto www.talkaudio.co.uk

:cheers:

Welcome to the Bass Club!!

Well, you'll need to attach the power cable to the battery - not too familiar with the Fabia, so Steve will be the best person to tell you how this needs to be done. Then it pushes through the grommet - IIUC this is somewhere behind the glovebox, which, if anything like the Octy, is removed by taking the 5 Torx screws out of it and remembering to disconnect the wire for the light.

Then you need to remove the plastic trim that covers the door sills. Gentle prising with a screwdriver is good for loosening it. This might be enough to push the wire under it, if it isn't then you can pull the trim off firmly. Once you've got it along the side, you come to the rear seats. Best way I found to do this on the Octy was to pull the lower part of the seat forward (should be a little strap at the front which you pull forward, pulling the seat bottom forward so that it sits horizontal), then drop the seat back. This should allow you to access all the fastenings for the plastic bit at the side of the seat. Didn't manage to get mine out totally, but loose enough to tuck the wire under.

Then if you climb into the boot, you should be able to remove the fastenings that hold the side carpet in place - removing this should reveal a lot of metal, and possible some existing looming for light clusters, etc. From here you should be able to blindly grope forward for the power cable, and pull it through.

This will then connect into the distribution block you have screwed nicely into your false floor. From the distribution block, lesser gauges of power cable will through the fusebox (one cable per fuse!) to your amp and whatever else you need to power.

You'll also need to run a ground cable from your sub to the earthing point mentioned by Steve.

It'd probably be safest to route the power cable before you connect it to the battery, actually...

Oh, and Rockford Fosgate are American!

Rob.