....the fact that there is nothing to locate the wheel when you're changing it? You have to sit with your ankles holding it in place whilst you try to peer through the holes in the wheel to find the correct threaded (not the unthreaded!) holes in the hub. I'm getting too old.

I got a puncture last week. The tyre pressure warning system alerted me (good show). Filled it up until I could change it this weekend. NO stud cap pliers!!! Aaargh. Totally useless wheel trim removal key. Had to use pointy pliers. Sodding wheel was rusted on so had to use that tried and tested manoeuvre of taking all the studs out, putting a batten under the inside edge of the tyre and slowly letting it down until it cracked off. Wirebrushed and copper greased the hub.

Thought I'd better do the others (it'll be raining and dark next time I need to change a wheel.....). They all came off but they got the same treatment all the same.

Got it repaired by Kwikfit who thankfully put it back on for me.

Now I've got to get the cracked heated windscreen replaced.

Dill

are they bolts on the octavia? my mondeo were just nuts, so the wheel could be pushed onto the threaded bars sticking through and would stay there, mostly, while you got the nuts back on

sounds like a right pain if you have to manually support the wheel to fit some bolts in.

Luckily (but in reality, probably unluckily) I dont have a spare tyre so it will be kwikfits problem

Oh yes it is a right pain in the ....

 

I found out the other weekend when I decided to change my winter tyres backs to summer ones - I had slipped a disc in November and my winters were fitted by my local tyre place.

 

What's even worse is the bolts are recessed on the alloys, so you are left having to hold the wheel and tyre in place while using the screwdriver type tool to push and spin the bolt.

There will be a recess in the centre of the wheel and the hub so they will locate together, you have to then turn the wheel to line up the bolts. If needs be I'm sure you will be able to find a stud of the right thread and length to screw into the hub to allow you to slide the wheel on .

Ian

As part of the spare wheel kit is there no long alloy stud (about 3" long with a plain shaft but threaded on one end), which you screw into one of the wheel bolt holes before mounting the spare wheel by sliding it along said plain stud? On cars ive had in the past there has been one to locate the wheel whilst changing it ??

As part of the spare wheel kit is there no long alloy stud (about 3" long with a plain shaft but threaded on one end), which you screw into one of the wheel bolt holes before mounting the spare wheel by sliding it along said plain stud? On cars ive had in the past there has been one to locate the wheel whilst changing it ??

 

Not that i've seen and i've never had one on any other car either....

Wheel changing studs are readily available from motor factors or off eBay for a few pounds.

If you've got a bad back, use a spade under the wheel. This will give you the leverage to align the wheel exactly without any strain. Again you can buy the small fold up spades from motor factors, halfords or eBay. You can keep it in the car then in case you get another puncture.

Cheers

Steve

Putting the wheel back on is indeed a painstaking task. It has a very thin mounting support so you have to apply a lot of pressure from the front of the wheel, but also from under it. I've never had a car with such hard to mount wheels. A mounting stud would really help but it's not included. I never knew that thing existed but for cars like this it is surely needed.

 

But a stud cap plier is included in the original toolkit and it works very well. If you don't have it you should talk to your dealers. I have it and the manual also shows it. 

 

9. Extraction pliers for wheel bolt caps 

 

Edited 1 April, 201412 yr by florino

This is what you need...

Available on E bay and Amazon.

Well I've tried searching ebay for "wheel change stud" "wheel locating stud" and a few other options and drawn a blank. What are they listed under?

The hardest part I found when putting on my winter tyres was getting the sodding jack out of the polystyrene thingummy in the boot. I used the trolley jack to change them back.

 

Those locating studs are a good idea.  The nipper's Fiat has one and it makes the job a doddle. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Wheel-Fitting-Alignment-tool-Skoda-Fabia-Octavia-M14x1-5-14x1-5-/190810406925

I have a set of these, having 2 studs makes the job a lot easier

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Romeo-Brera-Wheel-Alignment-WNT14x1-5/dp/B00841B7HC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396343399&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=14mm+wheel+alignment+studs

 

Same size as my Octy and Golf

The Octavia 5E doesn't appear to be listed on any of those, I'm assuming that one for a O2 FL would fit?

It's the same size. M14x1.5 also fits Octavia 3.

 

Thanks Kenny R!

Edited 1 April, 201412 yr by florino

This is what you need...

Available on E bay and Amazon.

Ordered yesterday, arrived today and now in the boot ready for action

Thanks Dilly.

 

Really useful thread, and like octavia5, I have ordered the 2 bolt kit from Amazon.

That is brilliant. I've just ordered a pair.

Thanks for the helpful suggestion. My back thanks you from the heart of my bottom if you see what I mean.

Dill

Yup those long studs are a great help - I keep mine in the wheel change kit in the boot. I find I only need one but I imagine two is even better. A potential drawback is that once the stud is in, it's not possible to wind the wheel brace through 360 to do the studs up. I use a long, plastic cased, 14mm socket to do this by hand, and do the final quarter turn with a torque wrench.

Thanks, just ordered one from the link.

I also have this problem on my 83rs1600i escort show car,so iv made two extended studs to hold the wheel,imagine more of a prob on the octy due to it having bigger and hevier wheels

Edited 3 April, 201412 yr by cortina63

I presume this is the "pair" option that people have ordered from Amazon?

Wirebrushed and copper greased the hub.

One of the reasons why the wheel sticks to the hub is because of the copper grease. Ok initially, but over time the grease washes away (not helped by alloy wheel cleaners, pressure washers, degreasers) leaving the copper in contact with disc / alloy or steel wheel. When water (plus salt in winter) is added this causes galvanic corrosion and hence wheel is difficult to remove.

Search the net for equivalent non-metallic grease. ECP have Pagid Cera-tec for example, but there are many others available.

Another tip for getting a stuck wheel off is to back off the bolts a turn or two before jacking and slowly drive car back and forth - this is normally enough to break the sticktion / corrosion.

'Again you can buy the small fold up spades from motor factors, halfords or eBay. You can keep it in the car then in case you get another puncture'

 

Some polythene sheeting and a roll of gaffer tape as well and you've got the full kit.