Hello,

I am a noob when it comes to cars, but undertaking the little project of making the power windows work before the possibly boiling hot summer on my Fabia 1.4 MPI is something I decided to undertake as unavoidable. 

I was wondering if someone could point me in the correct direction.

 

Symptoms:

-Power windows totally dead, although the switches look and feel crisp, fresh and little used.

-Passenger side power window is not working at all. 

-No electric sound or any response at all from pushing the buttons.

-Central locking button on driver's side is also totally dead.
-Central locking works totally fine from the remote and so does the alarm.

 

 

My first guess was that this could be a problem with the central control module, but it would make sense that central locking would not work from the remote either if it was toast?

 

Where should I be looking for the problem?

 

EDIT: the fuses look fine. 

Big thanks!

Edited 7 April, 201412 yr by tlass

Try peeling back the rubber sleeve between the door and the a-pillar to inspect the door loom as the wires can just snap over time.

I found pulling the boot back and unclipped the connectors at the a/b pillar side and sliding the boot off completely for a thorough inspection. My remote control locking and window packed up on the drivers side because two of the wires had snapped.

sent from my Galaxy Note 3

Just checked the drivers' side wires leading to the driver's door and found two incompletely snapped cables attached to the brown connector. 

 

It's one of the two vertical connectors, the one further away.

Anyone know what it's in charge of? 

My efforts looking online tell me it's either: 

 

2 -  Mirror, CAN-Bus 3 - 

Door contact, warning lamps

Had a look at the wire connectors with a multimeter and looks like despite damage, they are still working. 

Took the door apart and somewhat unwittingly took out the PCB. 

Then found that it was very badly corroded.

 

Cleaned off the PCB with some fairy liquid and a toothbrush (as read online), but still nothing. 

Someone on Briskoda said that you can test the motor by checking its resistance between - and + points and I got an "infinite" reading. Is anyone able to advise if this is a correct way to know if the motor is actually blown?

 

All cables going into the PCB seem to be responsive (12v in the main power cables, other cables have voltage changes when fiddling with switches).

 

Also, just got quoted 210€ for a new unit from my dealer.   Hardly happening. Two options now, really - either go hunting for a fairly rare spare part or attempt to engineer something completely new in the windows' plac.e

For anyone else fixing their electric windows, please note that there are many variations of the same part, although they look exactly the same. The difference, however, is crucial and it is highly likely they are not interchangable. For instance, I have a part number 6Q1 959 802 (without a suffix). Other part numbers i've encountered are 6Q1 959 802 A, 6Q1 959 802 D, 6Q1 959 802 F. 

Updating on my progress:

Lead on by my suspicion that the window motor was broken, I found one from a breaker's yard for 20€. I screwed the motor on in the breaker's parking lot and voila, the drivers side started to work instantly! Central locking came to life as well!

However, I then discovered that the passenger side was not working. Just now I disassembled the passenger door and found that the connectors to the motor were both disconnected. I suspect that the previous owner tried to find the fault, but gave up and left them unconnected. Can't complain, as I was mentally ready to drive 50 miles to the breaker's and obtain a new one. 

Both windows now work, but the passenger side switch is not working. The rocker on top does not seem to press down the buttons inside properly, as I can operate the window pressing on the little grey buttons inside with a screwdriver. 

I'll see if I can fix this myself, as their prices are a bit silly for what you are getting.

Edited 16 April, 201412 yr by tlass

I parted with £90 today for Skoda Dealer to tell me what I already knew.....  window motor MIGHT be faulty, but non in stock to check, but if I part with £300 they will order one then carry on investigating..... 

Erm, no.

I know there is power to the drivers motor after I repaired the pillar wires.

Tried the disconnect reconnect power etc.... 

 

I think its going to be that PCB.

 

Did you say you have to fit the exact same part number?

 

I feel a weekend at the scrap yards coming on.

Thanks for posting btw.

Phantom, yes you should obtain the exact part number. I've read somone here bought three motors or so before they got the right one. I think it's safe to say the other ones didn't work. The difference is really in the last letter.

Oh, and do check ebay for it...might be more convenient

Best of luck, mate. 

Edited 26 April, 201412 yr by tlass