Hey guys.

Canbus is all new to me so can someone offer some words of advise. I want to fit this to my Octy 2 pre F/L.

Now people have said that ignition and live leads need to be switched and ignition/switch live needs to be run from fuse box.

My questions are on this radio the live and the ignition live have bullet connectors on them (as shown) so can I just swap round the red and yellow wires from the bullet connector? Will I still have to run a live from the fusebox?

Search on ebay for the connects2 single din fascia converter and ISO adaptor. While you're at it, search for a piggy back "add a circuit". You may need a single din metal cage too.

i fitted these 3 a few weeks ago and have had no issues. I bought the Connects2 via BassJunkies and the piggy back was £2.

the bullets can be swapped, and you WILL need to go to the fuse box for a switched live. I used the towbar fuse outlet on mine.

iirc the ISO adaptor switched the lives over so i didn't have to change the bullets.

took around half hour total to install my kenwood and amp and cost less than £20.

Skoda sell a conversion kit, but i think it is around £70

Ebay numbers i got were:

231009521343 - piggy back

231399358808 - Single Din Conversion

261251307341 - ISO converter

Also got a pack of mini blade fuses from Euro Car Parts for £1.

the ISO has the switched live cable ready to attach to the piggy back.

you will lose the CD changer and Aux functions, if you currently have them in the car.

Ok great I'll order them parts now. My car doesn't have a cd changer or Aux point so I have no issues there hence the radio change. I fitted a connects 2 lead for auto changer interface but it's doing my head in. There's a certain part of road near my house that's quite uneven and would make the Headunit cd skip so my aux cuts in and out and the music cuts out when the CD player believes it has to change disc/track which is also annoying.

How long was the wire on the piggy back? Will I need to order wire?

Piggy has a few cm but the iso adaptor has more than enough. Route it under the steering column and through to the fuse box then crimp on the piggy

The biggest problem I had was finding space for the extra wiring behind the headunit, it tucked in behind the climate panel ok though...

Edited 17 April, 201412 yr by MereKat

Cool thank you. Ordered all the parts, just waiting on delivery.

Feel a lot more confident doing this now I know what I'm doing lol

I'm a bit of an old school (qualified) mechanic but canbus is all alien to me. I stopped doing mechanics in 04 after a motorbike accident trapped nerves in my back and I can't do lots of bending and lifting for long periods.

My previous cars have all been pre 2000 so never had to deal with canbus before and don't know a great deal about it as I was a Nissan mechanic and they don't use Canbus so this is my first delve into the world of Canbus which is a little daunting lol.

Thanks for your help though.

Same for me, previous cars have been pre-98!

If you're up Norwich way soon you can see what I've done with mine if you wanted...if I've got it back anyway!

On the fascia, you may need to break the 2 bottom tabs to get it to line up nicely.

Yeah I travel to Norwich every now and then as my Grandparents are in Bacton, I'm in Ely. Will make a note on the tabs.

If you've got it back? It in the shop?

you wont need to break anything aslong as you buy the correct parts.

 

You will need to buy some cable to join the fuse tap to the headunits loom. You will need to swap the ign live and positive live so you attached the feed from the fuse tap to the perm live (red from the headunit) as you have now created a switched live.

 

You could have bought a loom which does all this for you (bar the swapping perm and ign live over) but its not cheap, about £40. The reason you do this is canbus has no switched live

Edited 17 April, 201412 yr by ryan-re

Back to the shop! Had an incident and the approved repairer used the best parts Asia had to offer....nothing lined up so they are now awaiting Genuine parts to do the job properly!

My ISO adaptor had a 2M cable to run through the dash, and another for a phone/handsfree/mute, no other parts were bought apart from a fuse. The Fascia has 4 tabs and only 2 lined up correctly. I broke the bottom 2 off to more-or-less center the 2 parts, but I dont think it would have mattered if the top ones came off instead as the headunit and cubby hold the fascia to the frame. It is as I posted in your other radio thread a few weeks ago, except I've actually fitted the cuvby now!

where did you get  your parts from?

 

i bought all my bits from skoda and everything fits perfect

Mine are the ebay links I posted.

If my car was immaculate I'd have spent the money on the Skoda kit for a full on factory look, but as its something I will take out when I change cars I didn't see the point (My headunit has been in my past 5 cars...bit sentimental!). It doesn't look too bad though tbh!

I'll give it a try and see what it looks like. At the end of the day as long as it works I'm happy and if I don't like it then the fascia can always be changed at a later date.

Back to the shop! Had an incident and the approved repairer used the best parts Asia had to offer....nothing lined up so they are now awaiting Genuine parts to do the job properly!

My ISO adaptor had a 2M cable to run through the dash, and another for a phone/handsfree/mute, no other parts were bought apart from a fuse. The Fascia has 4 tabs and only 2 lined up correctly. I broke the bottom 2 off to more-or-less center the 2 parts, but I dont think it would have mattered if the top ones came off instead as the headunit and cubby hold the fascia to the frame. It is as I posted in your other radio thread a few weeks ago, except I've actually fitted the cuvby now!

Ouch. I've seen some awful repairs in the past using Asia's catalogue of finest replacement parts and there's no way I'd let someone use them on my car. Hope all goes well with the new repair. Have to sort a few out on mine but I'll do them myself when weather permits as part of the front and back bumpers need spraying as theirs a few little scratches that the previous owner has tried touching up with a touch up pen but it's nothing serious.

Cars to me just end up being money pits as I start doing things to "tidy up" then never stop.

I only went through insurance because it needed a new bumper, bonnet, grilles and headlights along with paint. Being Green I haven't seen many on the road and looking for good used parts myself drew a blank!

All my cars are money pits, hence little bits like audio adaptors etc are never genuine! My old Mk3 golf owed me just over £1000, but it was still only a £500 car!

Next car will be something like a Fiat Cinqecento, and I would love to put something like a Mk4 Golf AGU engine in it...preferably in the back!

Cinquecento? I'd have to sit on the back seats. Lol

Well, any tiny car lol Had a C1 and 107 for a couple of weeks now, love them! Just need more power....

1.8T or a 2.0 16v on carbs, rear engined

Just buy a clio V6

Edited 18 April, 201412 yr by Mikek3111

No lol

I'd prefer an average city car, subtle visual mods and fully lined and soundproofed rear, with the original windows kept in and limo tinted. Something I can look at and say "I did that!"

If I want a V6, I'll buy a Mk3 Golf

But...plans mean money, and time. Both of which, I don't have!lol

I know that feeling lol

Ok so the all the parts arrived today but the fascia was smashed to pieces so just waiting for a reply from bass junkies and hopefully they will replace it.

Now sorry if I'm a little dumb but 2 quick questions.

1) I know the red wire is switched and it runs to the fuse box via the piggy back. No worries. But where does the orange go? It's not plugged in but it's labelled as illumination. Do I match it to the orange in the quad lock?

2) on the Fakra aerial adapters I know the obvious connection but then there is a wire coming off of that. Does that need to go into the quad lock? I take it that it's for the amplified aerial?

Cheers guys. Sorry car electrics not my forte. Know enough to get by and do it safely but that's about it.

Suppose a pic or two would help lol

yellow SHOULD be switched and red should be perm live.

 

Orange is normaly dimmer cable which controls auto dim if the unit has that feature.

 

The red needs to be run to a switched live spare spot in the fuse box.

 

Out of interest what product is it (brand and model number). Looks completely different to any connector ive seen for the octavia