15 hours ago, RicardoM said:

 

Mine looked as the part on the left but with the metal casing (right) and plastic internal drive. 

Weird stuff. 

(double quote)

Edited 12 November, 20223 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

 

The other ''end'' of this is inside the dashboard

although it's not so tight you must be careful NOT to pull it too much because the other end will become loose and will not fit properly in the speedometer.

 

The end of the wire rod is square and must fit tight on the nest otherwise on high speed you can hear a noise like ''zzzztt'' because the square head ''jumps'' a little bit from the vibrations as he turns.

On 24/12/2019 at 22:34, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The end of the wire rod is square and must fit tight on the nest otherwise on high speed you can hear a noise like ''zzzztt'' because the square head ''jumps'' a little bit from the vibrations as he turns

I have this sound that zzzzgrgrgzzz.
How do i rectify it.
Can it cause damage

14 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I have this sound that zzzzgrgrgzzz.
How do i rectify it.
Can it cause damage

 

You have to remove the front panel of the dashboard but keep in mind to remove gently the white clip of the tachometer,let it fall back no need to worry

Put insulation inside if you can,pay attention so clips-connectors-cables etc don't touch any hard plastics because vibration + contact = noise.

 

Watch the yellow arrows,those cables (from the second alarm indicator) were touching the rods so every time i had vibrations from the road they were ''jumping up and down'' causing annoying noise

Took me long time to figure this out,every time i was in the national road i was slandering heavily from that noise.

 

Watch the red arrows, in the end or the wire put a tiny and thin layer piece of adhesive tape,when your front panel is ready to co back push that ''square end'' of the wire to fit tight on the hole of your speedometer,this will restrict the ''jumping up and down'' while is on the nest,he will just rotate without slackness.

 

Grab the white clip and fit it properly

Gently push back the whole panel (so the wire and the clip will stay in place) and start screwing.

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You have to remove the front panel of the dashboard but keep in mind to remove gently the white clip of the tachometer

You mean speedometer.

 

@Thefeliciahacker

I suggest first measuring the play in the Bowden cable-speedometer square socket ensemble. Use caliper, detail photos.

@thefeliciahacker

Inside this is the cable with the square head,don't worry if it falls back while you are in the process

you can easily retrieve it because has some length as ''spare'' till the gearbox.

 

The reason that you put a tiny layer of adhesive tape is because when you trying to clip the white socket the wire may fall back from the ''nest'' of the speedometer for few mm

this will cause you a noise on the road and you will wondering what happens inside your dashboard.

 

The trick of the tape will keep it steady when you put the panel back although can spin normally as before.

Thus i solve my huge problem,hope this will work for you.

 

 

 

8 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

@thefeliciahacker

Inside this is the cable with the square head,don't worry if it falls back while you are in the process

you can easily retrieve it because has some length as ''spare'' till the gearbox.

 

The reason that you put a tiny layer of adhesive tape is because when you trying to clip the white socket the wire may fall back from the ''nest'' of the speedometer for few mm

this will cause you a noise on the road and you will wondering what happens inside your dashboard.

 

The trick of the tape will keep it steady when you put the panel back although can spin normally as before.

Thus i solve my huge problem,hope this will work for you.

 

 

 

Got it,
Next time I disassemble my dash I will rectify that issue.
Thank you.

On 28/10/2019 at 21:49, Thefeliciahacker said:

 

Then fill with GL4 only otherwise say goodbye to you synchros. 

 

Motul Motylgear says covers API GL-5 and GL-4, this will harm the synchros in long term use?

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Motul Motylgear says covers API GL-5 and GL-4, this will harm the synchros in long term use?

Well these universal oils are a hit and miss. I doubt it would cause any damage. 

But better to stick to gl4 specific 

39 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

 

But better to stick to gl4 specific 

 

I will make a GL-4 change with the first chance.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

6 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Motul Motylgear says covers API GL-5 and GL-4, this will harm the synchros in long term use?

We have been through this before the modern formula GL-5 gear oils are fine, if it is a very old formula GL-5 (going back about 20+ years as I recall) then no - BUT - a modern formula GL-5 will not do any harm short, medium or long term.

 

You can also decide what weight range you want  75W90, 75W80 or even 80(?)W90 but just as an example - MOTUL MOTYLGEAR 75W-90 - "Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design." - https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf

 

 

MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf

 

You two are more misbelieving than the old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today, at least many of them are convinced to use proper (rather than just marketing term) full synthetic oils in their 1950s gearboxes.

 

For many years I put GL-5 gearbox oil in my early 1980s gearbox in my 1973 car - no problems at all and sometimes it was driven in a spirited fashion.

 

 

 

Edited 12 November, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

Well I'm a disbeliever so to say... 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything

 

6 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well I'm a disbeliever so to say... 

Well you will still be OK because like the misbelieving old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today you have the option of using full synthetic GL-4 oils, a lot of them use an appropriate Redline oil as others recommend it to them as they get very good results from its use but there are other good GL-4 full synthetic oils around.

 

 

Well I could find valvoline's very good gl4s oils 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well I could find valvoline's very good gl4s oils 

Fair enough.

 

A lot of the 70 and 80 year-olds like Valvoline oil in their engines at least, which is a bit disappointing with the UK owners that they don't use a more local and UK oil blender instead of an American one when the UK products are as good or better - same for you, is there not a more local oil blender you could use.

 

Edited 14 November, 20223 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

is there not a more local oil blender you could use

greek oil blenders are for tractors at best, **** poor quality

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Surely there are some nearer European companies that supply Greece.  I cannot remember if Millers Oils is out that way or not, good UK/British/English oil blender.