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Sheered stud when changing downpipe - HELP PLEASE!


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i tired eveything i could think of at the time but nothing worked, the only thing i could see working was these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-4-Piece-Stud-Remover-Concentric-Rolling-Extractor-Socket-Set-6-12mm-/271593700844?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f3c3efdec

really is no room for anything else,but that failed to as i sheared to much off :sweat:

not best pic first thing i ever tried to weld and it held :devil:

r7ngao.jpg

Terkin, did you sheer the stud further when trying to use the removal kit it was it too far gone? Cheers

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You could try to weld a nut onto whats left of the stud,if that doesnt work then it looks like a turbo off job,i had to do this on a works landrover ,i managed to remove one broken stud with alot of heat & stilsons but had to drill out & tap new threads onto the other,no way could i do this with the turbo on the engine due to poor access.

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Not abit of heat,

 

ALOT of heat as you can get round the stud not on the stud itself and then use a stud extractor to remove stud,

 

Mine stripped threads on 2 of mine and i managed to remove them with it still on car altho i did it on ramp at work and used welding bottles for heat

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Stud extractor is the best bet you can get them form Halfords, I had to do it when I replaced my exhaust manifold. They are worth there weight in gold if you ask me. This is a link to the ones I have.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/tool-kits/halfords-stud-extractor-set

 

I found this today also and was going to ask if anyone had used it before. How much of the stud was left on yours? The tip of the sheered stud is inline with the surface of the new downpipe after going through the hole, so maybe 5 - 10 mm. Will that be enough to grip it?

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I had exactly the same problem a couple of months ago. I got what was left of the studs out with these:

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028

 

It was tight but I managed to do it with the turbo still on the car.

 

 

Again, how much of the stud was showing on yours? I think I have enough left on mine to give these a try?

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Does anyone know the part number for the studs and nuts or is it just a trip to TPS? Think I will replace all the nuts. Do you think its a good idea to replace all the studs or not risk it?

 

Cheers guys, you lot are swell :clap:

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I found this today also and was going to ask if anyone had used it before. How much of the stud was left on yours? The tip of the sheered stud is inline with the surface of the new downpipe after going through the hole, so maybe 5 - 10 mm. Will that be enough to grip it?

5-10mm is plenty it will come straight out, mine snapped in the same. You need to make sure when trying to get a grip on the stud that gravity is pulling the rollers to the end of the extractor as they move up and down. When you get them you will see what I mean.

Edited by Big Lee
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Ok so spoke to a guy who is going to help me with this and going to try the extractor tool that niceyellow posted up. Purely because the guy who is helping me has that one. We won't be doing it until next week, which should give me time to get the replacement studs if I can find out which ones I need?? Thanks for everyone's suggestions and input and once I have done it i'll let you know how I got on

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Again, how much of the stud was showing on yours? I think I have enough left on mine to give these a try?

 

I had about 10mm showing. Just got to make sure the tool is hammerd on real good and then exercise a bit of patience when turning it. Plenty of easing fluid helps too

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That irwin tool kit is brill, I have it and it helped me get the manifold nuts off, defo heat it up and then wack a irwin bit on it it will pop straight out, drop the down pipe off though as it makes it easier

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