Bought A High Mileage Vrs - Tips On Ensuring Longevity? Egr Valve?

[rhauri]

Hey folks,

 

Bought my Fabia vRS PD130 is on 166k a few weeks ago and it seems to be a good honest motor; she's now on 167k.

 

With only 2 previous owners (me being the 3rd) I'm confident it's had quite an easy life to date. First owner had it for 2 years, did 60k and serviced on the dot every 10k at a Skoda dealer (got all receipts). Thereafter its had one lady owner who's done approx 12k a year until I bought it; serviced regularly and a cambelt at 100k (albeit a tad late!).

 

I've given the vRS quite the overhaul to ensure she can carry on for many miles more as I have a daily 100 mile commute:

• Cambelt, Tensioners & Waterpump
• Oil & Filter Change
• Fuel Filter
• Air Filter
• Pollen Filter
• Sticking Rear Caliper changed
• New Discs & Pads
• Wipers & BulbsTwo things thing I have not yet done:
• Clean out the EGR Valve, and I suspect it hasn't ever been done
• Suspension (Arms / Bushes / Shocks)

Key questions I have are:

1. What kind of MPG increase can I expect after cleaning out the EGR Valve after 167,000 miles build up?
2. Where should I get my arms / bushes from and what commonly goes (it is knocking a bit at the mo)
3. Will the Springs and Dampers be shot at 167k? (The front end seems a tad bouncy, over very bumpy back roads - but then all the weight is over the front axle).

Also, if you could let me know if there is anything else I can do to help the vRS get me to the moon and back, I'd really appriciate it!

 

Thanks,

Rhauri (Rory)

 

[tony_ack]

1. Depends on your commute - if mostly motorway, and you nurse it all the way, you could see 60-65mpg. 55 more likely.

2. Try vwspares.co.uk if you don't want genuine. Go for the arb drop links and bushes first as they are easiest to change and pretty cheap

3. Probably. Push down each corner of the car and release - it should return to normal in one movement, without bouncing up and down. Also check visually for leaks.

Just keep regularly servicing the car, particularly oil and filters - service intervals will be about every 3 months on your mileage. Keep on top of any issues that come up and keep some money aside in case any big bills come up (turbo, clutch).

With the rear calipers, it may be worth cleaning and re-greasing the slide pins every 6 months or so to reduce the chance of seizing.

[trebormint]

I am now on 200,600 miles, having bought the car at 106k three years ago.  Just keep changing the oil and filter every 10k.  I would also change air filter every year as well.  I change the fuel filter every year too.

 

I deleted the EGR and totally cleaned out the inlet manifold and got rid of the cat.

 

The console bushes go which causes knocking, get them replaced, ideally with cupra bushes from an ibiza.

 

If dampers original, I would think they could ideally be replaced to tighten up handling.

 

My car has a hybrid turbo on, and kicks out 220bhp, but cruise on 67mph on the motorway I get 55-60mpg.  I do a mix of motorway, b-road, a-road and dual carriageway and average 45-54 per tank.

 

I also went back to using Millers Ecomax, which will help clean the injectors and fuel system.

Edited 17 November, 2014 by trebormint

[rhauri]

Great, thanks Tony & Trebor - superb advice.

 

I'm hovering around the 48 MPG mark at the moment, 75% motorway and taking it easy, so hoping the EGR Clean will find me that extra 7 MPG. My goal is to get at least 500 miles out of a tank.

 

Bought 20 liters of Quantum Platinum (worked out about £17.50 per 5L!) so going to do 2 quick Oil & Filter Changes of 5,000 miles to clean it out a bit, then revert to a consistent 10,000 miles.

 

I've read about the Ibiza Cupra bushes, will certainly go for those.

 

Good to know that your motor is running 220bhp on 200,000 miles though Trebor! I'll be keeping it 100% standard though to ensure reliability and maintain economy; and just keep on top of servicing as you've both said.

 

Re: Dampers, I'm assuming they're original. If replacing, where would you get them from? I've seen at Euro Car Parts they have Sachs dampers, all 4 corners for £70 - will they be good enough or would you go Genuine?

[trebormint]

genuines are £86.99 delivered a pair on ebay (item no. 380704024158)

 

Or buy two sachs from carparts4less (using cp10less code) for £73.88 delivered - part no. 635790050

 

 

Not tempted in a remap?  I found a remap on toledo td130 (same engine) to improve mpg

 

 

ps.  what tyres does it have - might be worth getting better boots help with handling/ride and fuel economy

Edited 17 November, 2014 by trebormint

[will130787]

Mine is on 162k and also thinking about doing something with the EGR. I am currently getting between 46-54 mpg with an average a smidge above 50. I have a stage 1 map, regularly service and run injector cleaner. Also I rarely use the air con!! I get over 500 miles to a tank but I have removed the breather in the filler neck so get more in the tank. My needle doesn't move until I have done 150 miles

[rhauri]

Not too bad for Genuine shocks - I bet TradePartsSpecialists do them for less too? May call for a quote.

 

Not really that tempted by a remap at the mo, don't want to strain the turbo too much and I can only imagine the increased MPG will be 1 or 2? Spread that over the cost of the remap (£300?) then it would take a while to reap the reward. Plus I bet if I did remap it, I'd nail it every where, get terrible MPG, blow the turbo and intercooler! So gonna keep her standard

 

I've got the S2000 for the weekend blasts too, so can get my thrills there.

 

Good shout on the boots though, I'm effectively endulging in Tapas / Meze on the tyre front. I have 4 completely different tyres and one has a complementary slow puncture! They're a mixed bag of 1 x Linglong, 2 x Jinyu (odd corners though) and 1x Sailun. So the previous lady owner changed as they blew, as opposed to an axle at a time!

 

I found Kumho KU39's for £71 a corner, fitted, on Black Circles which I thought was awesome. Hankook K120's are £57 + Delivery & Fitting from Camskill, would you know how they rate vs the Kumho's? 

[trebormint]

look at lovetyres, tyreleader and tyretrader

 

You'll get better tyres than Kumbo or Hankook on those sites.

 

I liked the Goodyear F1 asymmetric 2 tyres.  Just had to replace them as they were all worn, and got winters fitted today.

 

 They are £69.80 on lovetyres.com

[stuart vrs]

As for economy, mine is standard, best I've got out of a brim refill was 585 miles, just recently done a run to Scotland aberdeen area, brim refill twice got 1092 miles that was tesco on the way up and Esso on the return leg, I was impressed averaged 70 mph getting 60-64 mpg on the way back averaged 59-62 mpg, mileage is 148k so not high like yours but drives awesome, I have changed several bits wear and tear, service 10k oil and filters, happy with my car. This is a 06 plate. Happy motoring.

[piggoy]

Now that you've cleaned out the EGR I would recommend the following changes -

 

- Disconnect the crankcase breather from the intake and divert it to a catch can. This prevent oil from entering the intake.

- Clean out you intercooler by flushing it with soapy water. This should be possible in situ.

- Turn down the EGR setting using VAG-COM to reduce the level of exhaust recycling.

- If you have a newer BLT engine fit the EGR gasket with a restricted opening to further restrict the system.

 

The above changes should ensure your EGR and downstream imntake never cokes up again. You'll also not need to remove the EGR completely therefore avoiding MOT failing EM lights on the dash.

[Toxicvrs]

Now that you've cleaned out the EGR I would recommend the following changes -

- Disconnect the crankcase breather from the intake and divert it to a catch can. This prevent oil from entering the intake.

- Clean out you intercooler by flushing it with soapy water. This should be possible in situ.

- Turn down the EGR setting using VAG-COM to reduce the level of exhaust recycling.

- If you have a newer BLT engine fit the EGR gasket with a restricted opening to further restrict the system.

The above changes should ensure your EGR and downstream imntake never cokes up again. You'll also not need to remove the EGR completely therefore avoiding MOT failing EM lights on the dash.

Or just blank the EGR off and get it mapped out

[rhauri]

look at lovetyres, tyreleader and tyretrader

 

Awesome - cheers mate, will deffo have a look.

 

The above changes should ensure your EGR and downstream imntake never cokes up again. You'll also not need to remove the EGR completely therefore avoiding MOT failing EM lights on the dash.

 

Interesting, wasn't aware you could tune down the level of recirculation. Are there also 'How To' guides on Inter-cooler cleaning? And I have the ASZ engine, are there many differences?

 

Or just blank the EGR off and get it mapped out

 

How much would it cost to map it out?

[vindaloo]

In the current weather and facing winter... Make sure the door carriers aren't leaking. Be suspicious of that if the car gets excessive condensation (by that I mean almost interior rain!).

 

Intercooler cleaning....

http://web.archive.org/web/20120513011508/http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/cleaning-the-intercooler/

 

If you don't mind lowering it for tauter handling, do the dampers too. I'd shy away from coilovers unless going up market with them - KWs, Bilsteins etc.

 

MPG - IMO 48 is a fine figure. I got near that doing 15 miles trips to/from work. Difficult to get more unless keeping the speed down. Also more difficult in winter. You can play with the cam timing to get some more but that brings potential starting issues when cold. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112521

 

J.

[trebormint]

 

 

MPG - IMO 48 is a fine figure. I got near that doing 15 miles trips to/from work. Difficult to get more unless keeping the speed down. Also more difficult in winter. You can play with the cam timing to get some more but that brings potential starting issues when cold. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112521

 

 

 

Interesting article, though maybe best used in conjunction with vcds.   Would be good to know what his actual cam timing is!

[trebormint]

Now that you've cleaned out the EGR I would recommend the following changes -

 

- Disconnect the crankcase breather from the intake and divert it to a catch can. This prevent oil from entering the intake.

 

 

 

Have done this and had no issues for over 100k.

[whitep]

167k high miles???? medium maybe on one of these engines. Good servicing and clean the EGR and a mr muscle of the turbo.... job done

[rhauri]

Intercooler cleaning....

http://web.archive.org/web/20120513011508/http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/cleaning-the-intercooler/

 

 

Cheers pal - much appreciated. I'm not adverse to lowering in general, but as this vRS is my commuter, and there is a handful of terrible back roads that I share with tractors, the OEM ride height is great. I think the Dampers are much passed their best though so may be looking at renewing them.

 

167k high miles???? medium maybe on one of these engines. Good servicing and clean the EGR and a mr muscle of the turbo.... job done

 

Thats what I like to hear Mr Muscle of the turbo? Sounds interesting! Any DIY threads on this at all?

 

 

Thanks all for the comments so far - really helpful and I'll certainly take them all onbaord

[whitep]

yes just search mr muscle treatmend on this website its well documented and works a treat. Its quite easy when you have done it once. do that and clean the egr with mr muscle and a tooth brush. It will make a HUGE difference at mediim miles.

[rhauri]

Cool, thanks mate - will deffo check that out.

[piggoy]

Awesome - cheers mate, will deffo have a look.

 

 

Interesting, wasn't aware you could tune down the level of recirculation. Are there also 'How To' guides on Inter-cooler cleaning? And I have the ASZ engine, are there many differences?

 

 

How much would it cost to map it out?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/45932-vag-com-useful-fabia-codes/