It's been a while since I posted but I've had a bit of a 'mare with sorting several jobs on the SE.  I thought it'd be helpful to share a few top tips with others.  I know that the main issues are covered by the "how to" guides, but this might prove useful:

 

1.  Battery:  2007 BLTs using the 027 code battery (242mm long) as opposed to the 096 code battery (longer) and the newer (and awkward!) battery cover:

 

to save lots of swearing and broken top cover left side and rear catches, I'd advise removal of air intake snorkel before you start (two T10 torx screws), then removal of the Bosch sensor attached to the RHS of the battery cover.  Be careful when prising the left hand and rear lower catches as they break all too easily, but if they do, no worries as the right hand one plus the positive lead from the fuses is sufficient to hold the cover on and actually makes it MUCH easier if removing again. I'd almost go as far as to say snap off the left and rear catches as they're a right pain to reach in the first place!  

 

When re-connecting the battery (in my case, I bought an Exide premium X-Tra Plus 640 AH battery from Tayna batteries for £58 delivered.  It's a higher spec than standard with more cranking power), remember positive connection FIRST and remove the little bungs on the top sides of the battery which is essential.

 

The radio code advice "SAFE" came up when reconnecting mine.  To save rummaging through the manual, if you have the radio code to hand, simply turn the ignition to position 1, wait for the "1000" code numbers to show after the SAFE message has disappeared then using pre=programme channel buttons 1 through 4, enter the correct code.  Follow this with a press of the ">" button (or the ">>" one) for 3 seconds and your radio will be re-coded.

 

Windows will need doing too.  Insert the key in the lock of the drivers door and hold in the closed position (or "lock" position) which closes both front windows.  Hold for 3 to 5 seconds, return key to centre then turn to the closed position for a further 3 seconds.  Withdraw key and close windows as normal using key in ignition (position 1) and electric window switches.  This should restore the auto close function of the switches.

 

2.  Leaky doors! (Groan...I know...there's loads on it):  I was a little miffed that the door seals should have failed on a 7 year old car which has been garaged much of its life so contacted Skoda to be told "it's old age, it does that to seals".

 

What a load of old codswallap.  7 years is no age for a vehicle or a decent seal.  The factory applied seals were of the disintegrating foam variety and removing my door cards (breaking most of the clips in the process!) I found that a re-sealing job had been (badly) done possibly a few years back.  My foot wells were soaked with recent weather so after speaking with Skoda, new seals being better or not, I decided against removal of the door window carrier panel (involving drilling of the retaining rivets).  I know some say it's the only way to do it properly but I'm unconvinced.  The issue, it seems, with the mastic or silicone "bodge" is precisely that some people bodge the job.  there's insufficient on seating pressure to cause any long term issues with effective sealing IF the sealant is correctly applied to clean, thoroughly degreased panels.  It seems that mine were neither clean nor degreased when the previous (Skoda employee) owner did the door seals.

 

The answer to a decent repair is very simple but care is needed to take your time and do the job properly.  First, avoid general purpose sealants such as mastic and DIY store stuff.  Use something like "Plumber's Gold" which has excellent adherence properties to metal surfaces and which uses moisture in order to set properly.

 

Start by removing door panels.  There's any amount of info on this so I wont repeat save to say a useful tool is a plastic putty knife (available in multipacks of various widths).  I bought a pack of 3 from Ebay, the narrowest of which is ideal for smoothing the sealant after application.

 

When the door card is removed (I left mine attached at the top and rested the base on the rear seat), remove any existing silicone or mastic that looks to have come loose.  In my case, half the lower edge was de-bonded.  I didn't need to remove it all, just the bits easy to remove as total removal is near impossible.

 

Next, using a cotton cloth and meths, thoroughly degrease an area at least 25mm beyond the existing sealant or original joint to both sides of the joint and wipe clean with a clean piece of kitchen roll.  Make sure that the whole area of any previously applied silicone is carefully cleaned and de-greased or you wont achieve a bond.

 

Apply a generous coating of sealant over the entire area and using a putty knife wetted with soapy water, smooth the sealant over the whole joint area.  I then used my finger (wearing rubber kitchen gloves) to smear it firmly against the bare metal of the inner panel to eliminate any air pockets near the edges of the sealant band.

 

Before you start, ensure that you have at least 10 spare clips per door (more than needed) as you may break some.  I bought two types, (one seller's were crap and very brittle and used thin washers).  I'd advise genuine Skoda parts.  I got mine from "Motorclips Automotive" for about £4 the set I think (Correct Product Code is 0461).

 

Then simply re-attach door card (make SURE first that you re-route speaker clip through aperture at the top.  If you forget, use a coat hangar with a hook bent into the end to retrieve the wire).  Wipe down the area of sill along the base especially near the rubber seal with the plastic interior trim and leave to set for 48 hours or so.  This should cure the problem for good if done properly. Even if it needs doing every two or three years, it's a damn site easier than drilling out old rivets, taking everything apart and re-sealing from the inside. 

 

Hope this is of some help to someone.

Edited 27 November, 201411 yr by SEVrs

Bookmarked for future reference, thanks for taking the time to write down these tips.

Hey thanks v much for this. Could you advise further about "Motorclips Automotive"? I'm not getting a clear Google hit. Also, clips seem to be going for 72p & up per clip (eBay shops want £10+ for ten clips :-p )

Cheers!

Hey thanks v much for this. Could you advise further about "Motorclips Automotive"? I'm not getting a clear Google hit. Also, clips seem to be going for 72p & up per clip (eBay shops want £10+ for ten clips :-p )

Cheers!

  Clips were bought on Ebay.  Be careful as several sellers advertising the faded looking green clips are supplying rubbish...I've tried some of these and they are very brittle and break easily. It's the genuine or OEM spec (fuller looking green) clips you want. Price should be under £3 for 10:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190476203072?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited 6 December, 201411 yr by SEVrs

  Clips were bought on Ebay.  Be careful as several sellers advertising the faded looking green clips are supplying rubbish...I've tried some of these and they are very brittle and break easily. It's the genuine or OEM spec (fuller looking green) clips you want. Price should be under £3 for 10:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190476203072?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Cheers! Thanks for the confirmation. That's exactly what I ended up buying.

 

I had confusion bc the part number (according to skodaparts.com and this forum) is supposed to be 5J0867276, but this eBay seller with those green "Space Needle top" clips says part number 6Y0867260 and doesn't even mention the 5J... number.

 

When I put 5J0867276 directly into eBay's search, I got expensive (and some weird-looking) parts.

 

(cross ref with the "Warning: Fabia Door Leaks" pinned topic -- http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/2158-warning-fabia-door-leaks/?p=4041172)

 

[edit to fix link]

Edited 7 December, 201411 yr by RM3

^ I love the way you call them Space Needle clips    I Googled it and they do look just like it