Has anybody had any trouble priming the injector pump after a fuel drop out or filter change? I'm not sure what the official method is but I normally just crack the fuel unions open on the diesel injectors a quarter turn to do it

there is a bleed valve on the fuel supply Union on the front of the injector pump too but mine is cross threaded so I didn't want to hazard the chance of opening it up

I got it running in the end but I'm going to devise a new fuel filter layout and add a priming bulb too.

I flattened the battery on mine when I did it. Used a primer bulb once I'd recharged it and had no problem then. It still took a bit of churning to get it going though. I did use the bleed valve on the injector pump to draw the air through the second time.

My problem was syphoning back to the tank when I changed the filter, even though I'd clamped the pipe.

I did mine by opening the banjo fitting on the fuel supply Union at the injection pump instead of using the proper bleed valve.

It always surprised me that they never fitted a primer bulb at the factory on the aef engines, I've got a priming bulb from euro car parts that I'm going to fit but I can't decide wether to put it between the filter and injection pump or before the filter.

the main reason I fiddled with the fuel system becuase I'm having problems with the thermostatic recirculating valve that sits on top of the filter in the fuel return line, I've tried 4 different ones now and I can't stop it bleeding air into the fuel lines

I've obtained a different fuel filter too which came from a freelancer 2.0 diesel which I'm going to retro fit in ther, these don't have the recirc valve on top, but other than that the dimensions of it are virtually the same.

So how did you work out it was the recirculation valve? What symptoms does it give?

 

Reason I ask, mine hesitates on acceleration - 1st ok, 2nd ok then change up to 3rd and it starts to accelerate, pauses momentarily and then goes on again as though nothing happened. I replaced the filter, checked for leaks in the line and found the returns from the injectors were iffy so replaced them but no change - still hesitant on acceleration.

 

(Tried some EGR valve cleaner, probably snake oil and clutching at straws anyway.)

 

Re the primer - before the filter would be convenient and if it's non return it would stop the syphoning back when the hose is disconnected.

I could hear the valve hissing and bubbling occasionally, and it was allowing the feed line to bleed back to the tank over night on some days.

Egr valve is a good bet in your case, just fit a blanking plate and forget about it, you only need to blank off the inlet manifold end and just leave the valve in situ, it's got 54mm hole centres at the inlet end, you can buy the egr blanking plates off ebay for less than a fiver.

It could also indicate worn injectors, they are twin stage injectors on the aef Diesel engine, first stage at light loads, then it crosses over to the larger pinle opening at higher injection pressures.

re:fuel filter valve, it's not all that well documented how or why these things are there to be honest. But basically it is a thermostatically operated bypass valve that allows warm fuel to be recirculated back into the fuel filter rather than straight back to the fuel tank which aids cold weather running I guess, in effect it allows the fuel filter to act as a pre heating swirl chamber for the diesel fuel and it also has the effect of filtering the fuel twice

Re: primer, just it has a non return valve, and I was thinking before the filter is best too for that exact reason you state.

Definitely no problem with overnight drain back and no odd hissing or bubbling so sounds like mine's fine then. I'll look further at the EGR as it did seem improved after putting cleaner through but is much the same again now. Could have been psychological, just wanted it to have worked.

 

I've run injector cleaner through a couple of times since owning the car but never really see any difference. 130,000 miles on it now. Don't know how long injectors should be expected to last.

The injector nozzles get worn from the massive injection pressures eroding them constantly and the springs wear out too, normally lifetime of an injector is around 100k, some diesel injection specialists will strip and rebuild them, or even just take them to get them cleaned with the ultrasonic doodad.

before I fit up my Land Rover freelander filter I need to find some fuel hose and some hose clips, I really ought to replace that fuel supply Union with the bleed valve too.

I run redex cleaner through it occasionally too, but none of this namby pamby half a bottle treats a whole tank of fuel malarky like it says on the bottle. I wait till the fuel warning light has been on for 20 miles then shove the whole bottle in, then take it down the motorway for 20 miles, then go and fill up with fuel.

Pre-filling the filter can help a lot, although your primer bulb will have the same effect. . 

 

Being gentle never gets you anywhere. Floor the accelerator while you're turning it over with the end injector open. If things get desperate. Give her a wave of easy-start while turning over.

 

Or be a gypo like me and just drag it up the road. 

Edited 28 December, 201411 yr by StevesTruck

I use a filter off a Rover 45 diesel it  is probably the same as the Land Rover one with an inlet and outlet and do away with the re-circulation valve just use a piece of pipe to join the two ends together.I have also fitted a one-way valve on the feed  just before the fuel filter This prevents any drain back into the tank regardless whether you're just driving or changing the filter

 

As the injector pump is also the fuel pump they are known to be quite fragile when run with no fuel in as that acts as a lubricant.

 

When changing the filter no need to clamp the pipe as the 1 way valve will stop loss of fuel, fit the new filter and fill to the top using a funnel through the air bleed hole in the filter I found one that actually screws in so I fill this with diesel as well and then open the bleed screw by the injector pump. (I have a spare bleed screw and pipe if you want it it's very easy to change) the volume of the fuel in the funnel pushes any air out of the pipe.

I also only ever change the fuel filter with a full tank don't think it makes any difference whatsoever that more is better than less in my opinion. I've also a set of injectors anybody wants them reasonable bought them off eBay last year fully reconditioned Did not need them as the bad running was caused by air being drawn into the system through a braided pipe truck had been wrongly diagnosed.

 

Clive

Yes I think the rover 45 filter is the same as the freelander one. I fitted this up this morning as it happens, fitted the priming bulb before the filter, I didn't bother to fill the new filter with fuel, I just cracked the bleed screw open on the pump (after repairing the crossed thread) pumped it until fuel came out the bleed valve, closed it up, turn the key are it started straight away. Didn't even need to open the injector pipes up.

Edit: also a vw type 25 van diesel filter looks like it would also be suitable too.

How much are your recon injectors? Have they got new heat shield washers that go underneath them too?

As said already besy thing to do is get as primer bulb which you can leave inline before the fuel filter.... keep squeezing until it goes hard then try and start, if its a reaccuring problem then i would look at the leak off pipes as these can split and let air in meaning not enough of a vacuum in created to suck through the fuel, worth a look. I think i have a spare primer bulb if you like?

 

Paddy