Replacing a battery, any special precautions?

[old newbie2]

We may need to change the battery on SWMBO'S VRS soon & I'm wondering if we need to keep the car's memories alive during the changeover.

 

I'm concerned that all the info that the car has "learned" whilst driving, such as DSG settings & driving style might be lost if the battery is disconnected.

 

I'm assuming that the Maxidot data is stored in non-volatile memory, but I could easily be wrong!

 

 

TIA, DavidC. 

[DGW]

You could use the gadget below or similar.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-12V-Car-Vehicle-Radio-Code-Clock-Memory-Saver-12V-Socket-Battery-Changing-/380742431301

[mark999]

You could use the gadget below or similar.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-12V-Car-Vehicle-Radio-Code-Clock-Memory-Saver-12V-Socket-Battery-Changing-/380742431301

I used a similar device when changing the battery on the Scout. Remember to remove the -ve terminal (Earth) first.

I can highly reccomend the Varta E44 (same as the Bosch S5). I paid £68.75 delivered from Amazon.

Mark

[old newbie2]

Thanks to you all for the information, 'tis very useful.

 

I've got to do my EOS battery soon as well, & using the Draper gadget might be problematic, 'cos the interior power socket 

that it uses is always live on the Skoda, but the EOS has to have the ignition is switched on, which might cause problems when disconnecting

the battery..... 

 

You'd think that all VAG cars would be the same.........

 

 

Thanks again, DC 

[nickguzzi]

Could you not rig up some small fly leads to provide the few milliamps required to drive the electronics while the swop is being done? 

 

I changed a freshly charged battery pack on a commercial vehicle, someone else working on the truck switched the ignition on.  The hydrogen from the gassing cells exploded, blew the batteries apart and covered me in sulphuric acid and left me unable to hear for a couple of days. 

[smileonimpact]

Please do not follow ryan-re method, quite frankly it is dangerous and could easily lead to injury.

Any slip with a spanner and it is the same as directly shorting the battery out, if you push 500-1000 amps through the spanner, or even worse through a wedding ring it will end in tears.

Disconnection: negative first

Reconnection: positive first

Please be safe.

Edited 1 February, 2015 by smileonimpact

[ryan-re]

Please do not follow ryan-re method, quite frankly it is dangerous and could easily lead to injury.

Any slip with a spanner and it is the same as directly shorting the battery out, if you push 500-1000 amps through the spanner, or even worse through a wedding ring it will end in tears.

Disconnection: negative first

Reconnection: positive first

Please be safe.

its not dangerous and wont lead to injury, what are you on about. Once ONE of the terminals is disconnected the circuit is broken,

and always cover the terminals so they dont earth to anything

[Lewwy]

its not dangerous and wont lead to injury, what are you on about. Once ONE of the terminals is disconnected the circuit is broken,

and always cover the terminals so they dont earth to anything

 

You don't have a clue what you are talking about. As has been said if you take the positive off first leaving the neg connected and touch the spanner (while undoing the positive) to anywhere on the car metallic you will effectively short the positive to ground, and therefore short the battery out, As has been stated a dead short can be catastrophic with infinite current flowing.

 

Get your facts straight before giving people dangerous information, and don't be so quick to diss the people telling it the correct way.

[ryan-re]

Not a clue no.

Im not dissing anyone but if you are playing with electrics and are not being careful with where spanners are, not covering things up etc you should not be touching it.

I know all the above, i remove earth first and yes thats the correct way but surely as i said, if you are not making sure there are no risk of the positive earthing you shouldnt be messing about with it

[smileonimpact]

Can an administrator please delete the 4th post as it gives dangerous advice on how to disconnect a battery.

[meta55b]

Guys, we're talking about cca, cold cranking amps. Not amps that Is used in say 240v house stuff. Unless you have a heart condition, all it will do is give you a small belt and that's it. What's more dangerous is the battery going boom if it's giving off any gasses if it's faulty and your causing Sparks.

[Lewwy]

Guys, we're talking about cca, cold cranking amps. Not amps that Is used in say 240v house stuff. Unless you have a heart condition, all it will do is give you a small belt and that's it. What's more dangerous is the battery going boom if it's giving off any gasses if it's faulty and your causing Sparks.

 

I have seen a guy that shorted a battery (disconnecting incorrectly) and managed to touch his metal watch strap, which managed to quarterise main arteries in his wrist, do not underestimate the dangers of messing about with a vehicle battery. Have also worked with another guy who had a battery explode in his face, he wears glasses and luckily his glasses saved his eyes.

 

Its ok saying people shouldn't be messing about with things they don't understand, like car batteries, but the thing is people will have a go and change there own batteries and not everyone is as experienced or understands vehicle electrics or the risks.

 

So as someone who is experienced in vehicle electrics, you shouldn't be dishing out advice like removing positive first. I for one wouldn't like to think anyone on here had injured themselves doing some of things i have seen.

 

We are all on here to help each other and give useful and safe advice on doing things to our cars.

[Aspman]

If the new one isn't charged I'd charge it first.

 

Other than that do it by the book. Far to easy to knacker delicate car electronics never mind fry yourself.

 

Take a note on paper of all your maxidot settings so you can go through and reset manually if needed.

[old newbie2]

If the new one isn't charged I'd charge it first.

 

Other than that do it by the book. Far to easy to knacker delicate car electronics never mind fry yourself.

 

Take a note on paper of all your maxidot settings so you can go through and reset manually if needed.

Thanks, good advice & I'll heed it.

 

As for disconnection / connection procedures, I was already aware of the correct method & the reasoning, again I'll heed to good advice.....

 

When the EOS battery needs replacing I'll have to keep the car "alive" from an independent power supply, if only to keep the throttle-body & 

DSG settings.

 

Thanks again, DC.

[mixskoda]

I purchased a couple of fused cigarette lighter plugs and joined them with a length of wire. Using this I can plug one end into my lighter socket on my jump start power pack, and the other end to the lighter socket in my cars centre console. This will maintain a 12v supply sufficient to keep things ticking over whilst the main battery is disconnected.

[old newbie2]

I purchased a couple of fused cigarette lighter plugs and joined them with a length of wire. Using this I can plug one end into my lighter socket on my jump start power pack, and the other end to the lighter socket in my cars centre console. This will maintain a 12v supply sufficient to keep things ticking over whilst the main battery is disconnected.

Neat idea. When we know that one of the Skodas isn't going to be used for a while I connect a trickle charger  to the car via the power socket using a fused plug.

 

Doesn't work on the EOS 'cos the socket is live only when the ignition is on, gonna have to keep the car alive by connecting a power supply directly to the battery leads.

 

DC

[nick74]

Doesn't work on the EOS 'cos the socket is live only when the ignition is on, gonna have to keep the car alive by connecting a power supply directly to the battery leads.

DC

The recommendation when using a 'code saver' or similar on cars with this setup is to have the key turned one click to the accessories position. This will usually power up the lighter socket without actually having the ignition on.

[phiso]

Don't know if this is of any use at all but having done mine today, these are my "tips":

 

1: My black carboard-style battery case doesn't fit the 096 battery I put in. Haven't found a solution to this yet!

 

2: My PAS and ESP and tyre pressure sensors all lit up yellow when I restarted the car. Nearly gave me a heart attack! The solution is to start the engine, turn the wheels full left lock, full right lock and then centre and they all go out <phew>! Never seen this on any other car! If you get the job done quickly, I'm told this doesn't happen but I couldn't find my 13mm socket which caused something of a delay :-(

 

Mk2 Octavia VRS diesel estate, 2010

 

Phil

[phiso]

Part 1K0915411B is the correct fabric-style battery case for 096 (278mm long) batteries - at £23 it's a bit pricy though! My engine bay is now back in tip-top condition :-)