Is there a section that gives what the options are for upgrading to bigger brakes and wheel/tyre combinations etc.

You could start with this one, heavily modified 1.6tdi with a CR177 turbo conversion.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/326591-2014-greenline-project-aka-sharky/

 

Then this one, soon to be 400+ bhp 2.5TFSI Yeti

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/226003-the-twins-and-yeti-rs/

And then this one, 312bhp 1.8tsi Yeti with a k04 turbo conversion

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/253927-beti-the-k04-yeti/

There are those project sections, usually started by loonies typically.

 

Alternatively you could just start a thread and ask.

A lot of the info on brakes etc... is spread out over the forum as the Yeti has the same set up as the Octavia.

If you've got the 140bhp (guessing you have if your looking for brake upgrades) then all you really need are:

 

- 312mm Calliper Carriers (contact xman750 on here, he has them in stock, £80 i think)

- Pair of 312mm discs (Pagid £30-£40) and your done, one 312mm brake upgrade

What brakes does the 140 come with as standard?

And how much real difference does 312mm actually make?  I've never felt the need to upgrade brakes on a car.

What brakes does the 140 come with as standard?

And how much real difference does 312mm actually make?  I've never felt the need to upgrade brakes on a car.

Have you ever put a larger turbo on? people upgrade for many reasons, anyone who has driven in the Alps for example knows that 'oh dear' feeling of brake fade on a hot summers day. 

I have upgraded brakes on two cars in the past -a Peugeot 306 cabriolet to Gti6 brakes and a Seat leon Tfsi to alloy bells and larger rotors with ex TVR Ap 4 pot alloy calipers- in each case the point to point driveability was transformed Of course the original brakes were adequate and perfectly useable but until you have tried a good brake upgrade you have no idea what you are missing -far more use than a power upgrade-although that is nice- the fact in day to day driving you are only using a quarter of the available retardation is fine on the rare occasion you misjudge or someone else misjudges a situation it is immensely satisfying to know that using half the available performance sees you free of risk with plenty of margin left.

Thanks Darrel GB I've ordered the caliper carriers from xman750 and will post an update when i have received them and had them fitted! New cost £ per side156 plus VAT seems like a very good tip at £80 for two!!

Thanks Darrel GB I've ordered the caliper carriers from xman750 and will post an update when i have received them and had them fitted! New cost £ per side156 plus VAT seems like a very good tip at £80 for two!!

Welcome  Wish mine had been so straight forward! Worth the effort though.

Thanks Darrel GB I've ordered the caliper carriers from xman750 and will post an update when i have received them and had them fitted! New cost £ per side156 plus VAT seems like a very good tip at £80 for two!!

the bigger disk will simply allow for more leverage so at this point I'd also say that its worth putting some better pads in there to increase friction properties - not just so they bed in, matched to the new discs (which is preferable) but because they'll possibly make as big a difference as the bigger disks will for fast road use, if not more imo. DS2500 are what I've found to be best day to day (better bite from cold compared to OE) and far better than OE once they have more heat in them! Around £120 iirc. Finally, ATE Blue fluid (very cheap - around £10-£12) will give you a brake system that can take some proper abuse if required

... the point to point driveability was transformed Of course the original brakes were adequate and perfectly useable but until you have tried a good brake upgrade you have no idea what you are missing -far more use than a power upgrade...

Fully agree with this.

 

I always used to be of the opinion that if the original brakes could stop the car OK and lock up if I pushed hard enough, then what was the need for an upgrade ?

Then I did my first 312mm conversion (on an Ibiza), and well as JCP says, it really transformed the car - if you like to press on now and then, especially on twisty roads, for me it was a more satisfying upgrade than a remap, it gives you so much more confidence in the car..

I subsequently did the same conversion on 2 more cars.

Don't need to on my Yeti, as the 170 has them as standard. But I'll be fitting some better pads when the OE pads wear out (which incidentally seem to be lasting forever!).

Brakes? They just slow one down...

Thanks guys for the replies,the info on brakes is what I needed,I am not going to touch the engine ,I'd rather spend money on brakes/suspension upgrades and tyres.Am I right that Golf r32 anti roll bars fit and if so which model-mk4 or mk5 and what else would I need to fit them. The reason I thinking of doing thes is most of the roads I drive on are very twisty and up and down dale,so very good brakes are needed as well as good handling.I would like to know what the best tyres to buy once the Dunlops have worn out.

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by Helston Hauler

Thanks guys for the replies,the info on brakes is what I needed,I am not going to touch the engine ,I'd rather spend money on brakes/suspension upgrades and tyres.Am I right that Golf r32 anti roll bars fit and if so which model-mk4 or mk5 and what else would I need to fit them. The reason I thinking of doing thes is most of the roads I drive on are very twisty and up and down dale,so very good brakes are needed as well as good handling.I would like to know what the best tyres to buy once the Dunlops have worn out.

I have Whiteline adjustable anti roll bars front and rear, transformed the handeling and well worth looking into, not that expensive either.

Thanks for the replies,so if I buy the discs/pads/callipers for a 170 yeti,then these should fit straight on? I will be also looking for upgrading the antiroll bars and tyres,so any info would be good.It would help me a lot if you could recommend suppliers contacts for the various parts I will need,I'm fairly new to the Skoda forum.

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by Helston Hauler

You don't need callipers, just the carriers, discs and pads but yes they will bolt on. As above, contact Xman750 on here and get the carriers for the bargain price of £80 then get some discs and new pads if yours need replacing/upgrading. If you epwant to upgrade your pads then go for Ferodo DS2500 of Tarox Starda.

The ARB's, give Shark Performance a call as they are a supplier of Whiteleine and can also fit them if needed.

IMHO if you're wanting to enjoy rural twisties: brakes first, followed by a decent set of dampers (eg Bilstein B6/B8). Keep the stock springs.

If you're regularly driving on pretty rough roads, then personally I'd do without stiffer ARBs - leave each corner to have a bit more independence and cope with bumps/holes without causing the other side to break traction. Lighter wheels help in this respect too.

 

With regards to pads, well you can read endless comparisons of one pad vs. another online, personally I'd go for EBC Yellows. Favourable price too.

Edited 5 February, 201511 yr by muddyboots

IMHO if you're wanting to enjoy rural twisties: brakes first, followed by a decent set of dampers (eg Bilstein B6/B8). Keep the stock springs.

if you are keeping the stock springs, go with B6's as B8's utilise a 20mm shorter shaft specifically for use with lowering springs.

if you are keeping the stock springs, go with B6's as B8's utilise a 20mm shorter shaft specifically for use with lowering springs.

Aye, just wasn't sure what's available for the Yeti

 

If B6 and B8 are both available for a diesel Yeti, any idea if the valving of the B6 and B8 is the same, or different ?

Aye, just wasn't sure what's available for the Yeti

 

If B6 and B8 are both available for a diesel Yeti, any idea if the valving of the B6 and B8 is the same, or different ?

Valving is the same between the two according to Bilstein UK. Officially the B6 is all that's listed for the Yeti's but the same B6's that fit the other vag group vehicles do have an alternative B8 option as well soooo...

 

According to Bilstein, as long as the B6 is pre tensioned by simply being in contact with the lowering spring (which of course it is) it will work as well as a B8 but afford more comfort. Im swapping the Koni stuff out to B6's all round at the mo so I'll update my project thread with findings as soon as I get time.

Give me a shout if your getting rid of the FSD's Lee, wouldn't mind giving them ago.

My local wrenchman will be sorting my brake upgrade this week-he intends to use Pagid pads, does anyone use/know them?

Thanks for the replies,so if I buy the discs/pads/callipers for a 170 yeti,then these should fit straight on?.

Just checking... Is yours a 110 or a 140?

If it's a 140 then yes.

If it's a 110 then no.

As an aside, however sensible this upgrade might be, your insurance company might not see it that way. Mine (MoreThan) advised that that would not insure my Yeti if I did the brake upgrade.