DIY Oil Change - CR140

[Supurbia]

Silver,

 

They normally twist into the top cap and the leg goes into the middle of the metal housing body, small washer on it,

 

When you go to take it out it's a two parter, you get it loose then have to tilt the cap to clear the metal pipe, if you have gloves lift the cap and twist the element off and drop it back into the housing, you can then get the cap out easy and the element is narrow enough to clear it anyway, reverse the process for fitting the new one, I used to find the element would come off before I could get it and the cap in fully straight.

[silver1011]

Thanks Superbia,

What threw me is the second filter I pictured doesn't show the leg, but it does show the little rubber grommet that sits on the leg.

From what you say, together with all the YouTube videos I need a filter with the leg so the listings showing filters for my car without the leg got me curious.

I'm going to source it through a main dealer via my VIN so that I make sure I get the right one (if indeed they are different!).

[Supurbia]

Thanks Superbia,

What threw me is the second filter I pictured doesn't show the leg, but it does show the little rubber grommet that sits on the leg.

From what you say, together with all the YouTube videos I need a filter with the leg so the listings showing filters for my car without the leg got me curious.

I'm going to source it through a main dealer via my VIN so that I make sure I get the right one (if indeed they are different!).

 

 

Go to GSF and get a Mann one, (green & yellow box) they are oem, it should have the plunger on the bottom and the top will have a plastic cap with locator lugs built into it, you simply twist it into the cap a few mm's

[silver1011]

Brill, I wondered who made the OEM filters, I've seen a few MANN filters on eBay, never heard of GSF, will check them out now...

[Guest]

Many dealers use a suction pump to remove old engine oil, it is even stated in the genuine manuals " drain or syphon old oil, genuine syphon part number is also given ". I always remove drain plug for first oil change, then always syphon. When changing oil filter ensure the new filter element is fitted the correct way up. Some do state top, this is most important. I have an inspection pit in my garage so under vehicle jobs are no problem. As to OEM filters dealers supply several makes of element in the genuine boxes you never know which make you will be getting. Mann are good, but who makes their filters ??

[Supurbia]

Mann are good, but who makes their filters ??

 

They do.

[boxer]

regarding ramps.

Look carefully when you buy.  The at least first few 'cross bars' should be vertical, or close to it, so that the tyres bite onto them and pull the ramp back.  Stops them sliding away.  On mine all the bars on the sloped part are angled upwards.

[Supurbia]

You have to be careful with those ramps, if you go up too fast they will kick under and smash the sides of the car.

[boxer]

 

You have to be careful with those ramps, if you go up too fast they will kick under and smash the sides of the car.

Evel Knievel doesn't drive a Skoda

 

I didn't mean they literally pull the ramp backwards, just once there is a quarter of the weight of a car on them, they don't slide away.

[silver1011]

I decided against the ramps in the end, I appreciate the advice though, too many concerns over stability and the ability to get the car on and off them easily. I've instead gone for a set of adjustable axel stands from Halfords (£30) and ordered two rubber hockey pucks from eBay (£4 each)...

 

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-equipment/trolley-jacks-axle-stands/halfords-advanced-3-tonne-ratchet-axle-stands

 

I already have a trolley jack and rubber puck to jack each side of the car up.

 

I just need to work out whereabouts under the car I can use to rest it on the axel stands whilst I jack-up and support the other side.

 

The oil filter, sump plug and air filter were ordered today from Rainworth Skoda in Mansfield (big online eBay store) for £20 delivered using my VIN...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/GENUINE-SKODA-OIL-FILTER-SUMP-BUNG-PLUG-AND-SEAL-071115562C-N90813202/331000296003?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140205155511%26meid%3Df96d0172436a4561838ab4204c45b307%26pid%3D100068%26clkid%3D4055438689537720211&_qi=RTM1793693

 

I found a brand new 5 litre container of Halfords own brand 5W 30 (VW 507.00) in the garage so that has saved me £40!

 

I also ordered a 32mm shallow socket (£7) in case access is tight...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271381851946?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

My torque wrench does not pivot just behind the head so I hope I'll be able to get in!

 

I did look at adjustable torque wrenches but boy are they expensive!

 

Finally I ordered some rubber grease to help the engine cover lugs pop back in properly and release easily next time...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281274299121?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited 13 February, 2015 by silver1011

[Declan O'Shaughnessy]

Are those oil suction pumps a good idea or not? Lidl Ireland are selling an electric one next week (connects to the car battery) for €18 and I was thinking it might save a few quid if I did an oil change myself every now and again. But I don't know if the suction pumps are any good or not? 

[Supurbia]

Are those oil suction pumps a good idea or not? Lidl Ireland are selling an electric one next week (connects to the car battery) for €18 and I was thinking it might save a few quid if I did an oil change myself every now and again. But I don't know if the suction pumps are any good or not? 

 

 

I think they are ideal if you want new oil every 4000 miles but for me it's best to drain the sump through the plug as you will remove more debris that way, ok the new filter will pick it up anyway but I still think for best practise the grovel on the ground method and for cleanliness and speed the pump method

[Declan O'Shaughnessy]

I think they are ideal if you want new oil every 4000 miles but for me it's best to drain the sump through the plug as you will remove more debris that way, ok the new filter will pick it up anyway but I still think for best practise the grovel on the ground method and for cleanliness and speed the pump method

Thanks for that. Where I live, grovelling on the ground just isn't do-able (soft ground, so can't jack car up, and mostly stone and mud underneath so can't even really crawl around on it!). The pump advertised has a flow rate of 0.2l per minute, so it would take quite a while to extract all the oil. Plus, my next oil change coincides with the timing belt being due, so it might just be as easy to get it all done at the same time by the Skoda dealership (even though I disklike them with a passion!).

 

I wouldn't be changing the oil every 4k, trust me. I'm not looking to spend more money than is absolutely necessary!

[Supurbia]

Dec,

 

Sometimes you can bag a deal where the belt price will be reduced enough to all but cover the oil service, let them quote you first then lay it on about is that the best you can do I was thinking of changing the brake fluid at the same time etc and see if you can snag a total price that sounds reasonable, if the car is over 3 years old or 60k I'd look for a good Indy rather than go to Skoda, Skoda generally want £450 - £550 for the belt and £150 for the oil service, an Indy would probably do both for 400-450, hth.

 

I had my MK 1 done at a VW dealer, they hit me £412 where Skoda wanted £550 at the time, always worth looking on the sites at fixed service deals, both VW and Skoda do them from time to time.

Edited 16 February, 2015 by Supurbia

[peterposh]

There'll be no debris of sludge , it's not like the olden days. I've been using one for years , really good especially if engine is hot as the oil comes out quickly then.

 

How do you reset the service indicator? As i've only ever used it on mondeos

Edited 18 February, 2015 by peterposh

[Supurbia]

There'll be no debris of sludge , it's not like the olden days. I've been using one for years , really good especially if engine is hot as the oil comes out quickly then.

 

How do you reset the service indicator? As i've only ever used it on mondeos

 

 

If it's the same as the Passat iirc you select the service option, put the key into 2nd position, i.e where all the dash lights come on and hold the miles done button for 20 seconds, it'll be in the manual anyway but that's how I think I used to have to do it, hth.

[bryanp]

If it's the same as the Passat iirc you select the service option, put the key into 2nd position, i.e where all the dash lights come on and hold the miles done button for 20 seconds, it'll be in the manual anyway but that's how I think I used to have to do it, hth.

Doesn't resetting it this way put it on fixed servicing regardless?

I was under the impression that if your on variable servicing you have to have it reset on VAGCOM or by a dealer

[Declan O'Shaughnessy]

Doesn't resetting it this way put it on fixed servicing regardless?

I was under the impression that if your on variable servicing you have to have it reset on VAGCOM or by a dealer

Yeah, if you reset through Maxidot then you put the car on fixed service intervals. You need VCDS / Vagcom or a dealer to keep it on variable servicing.

[silver1011]

The parts arrived!

 

Oil filter, sump plug and air filter...

 

 

 

 

Already had the oil, found it in the garage!

 

[Stinker]

Very intereted in this thread. Used to do my own servicing and seriously considering starting again. Keep us posted and keep up the good work Silver!

 

P.S. Big Dewalt thing you got going on there :p

[Orangebows]

Dec, if ground is relatively flat could you not use spreaders of some description ie 3ft lengths of floor joist or a couple of similar sized bits of min 15mm thk plywood? No way that will sink. Plus, a small tarpaulin to crawl on? Max cost £50 for timber and sheet for B&q or of that ilk, relative to garage charge, huge saving...

[Diving Pete]

I also use a Pela 6000 oil pump - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pela-6000-Oil-Pump-Extraction/dp/B002EJ2GUC to drain all my vehicles.  This has enough capacity to totally drain all the oil in your engine - 6 litres.

 

Used for the last 6 years, & as long as you warm the oil up first it sucks it out of the dipstick very well. 

You don't even get dirty hands doing it.

 

How to do it.

Get engine fairly warm - hot isn't essential.

Turn off engine

Remove dipstick & open the Oil filler cap

insert tube, push till firm resistance. 

Attach tube to Pela container

Attach Pump to Pela container & pump approx 20 times.

Then wait / make tea.

 

When the vacuum starts sucking in air I usually check that the tube hasn't moved from the bottom, give it a few more pumps wait a bit until the vacuum stops remove the tube from engine - If you gently wrap a tissue over the tube as you remove it you also clean it !...,

remove the tube from container (plug both ends of tube with tissue), remove pump from container then tip oil into empty container.

 

Takes about 20mins & couldn't be easier.

 

Then change the Oil filter.

[Supurbia]

Doesn't resetting it this way put it on fixed servicing regardless?

I was under the impression that if your on variable servicing you have to have it reset on VAGCOM or by a dealer

 

 

Yes I believe it does Bry.

Edited 21 February, 2015 by Supurbia

[tmg]

go on then - have you changed your oil yet?

[silver1011]

I'm ashamed to say, no not yet 

 

Trying to find the time, I have however got myself a pair of axle stands (my current pair are under the camping trailer!).

 

I also got a pair of ice hockey pucks if needed to sit in-between the car and the top of the stands.

 

The last issue I need to figure out in my head is where to place the axle stands under the car. I can't use the sills as they'll be on top of the trolley jack.

 

I've tried asking this question a few times in other threads but... silence!