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DIY Oil Change - CR140


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Gents,

 

After searching this forum and the technical guides I can see that there are no guides for changing the oil specific to the Skoda Superb.

 

There are a few on YouTube for CR140 engined VW Jetta's and Golf's which I assume involves the same procedures.

 

This seems to be the best, it looks like an indy or main VW dealer in Germany...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxVjEZpCtXM

 

Anyone got anything better?

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yup - thats pretty much it. 

 

the filter is accessible from the top - you need to take out one torx screw iirc and then i usually put in as many rags as I can fit around the sides of it and on the radiator, as the filter does tend to drip a bit. I would do the filter before going under the car.

 

another note is that the old oil comes out with quite a bit of force! and i always underestimate how far back I need to put the oil collector (I see the guy in your video linked above just about made it :)

 

and lastly, VAG group are very specific to change the sump nut each oil change. basically, its to stop folks over-torqueing an old one trying to get it to seal up properly, and stripping the threads out of the sump. well worth doing imho

 

(my wife has a 140 CR engine in a VW and its exactly the same layout, as are two of my friends passats and its pretty straight forward)

Edited by tmg
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I went to do this myself, bought all the stuff including a new sump plug only to realise the sump plug is on the back of the engine and how inaccessible it is without a 4 post ramp, couldn't get the car on small ramps as the front is that low and long it just pushed them and didn't fancy lying under the car whilst it was on axle stands! Ended up paying for a local garage to do it with the bits I bought.

Edited by bryanp
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yup - thats pretty much it. 

 

the filter is accessible from the top - you need to take out one torx screw iirc and then i usually put in as many rags as I can fit around the sides of it and on the radiator, as the filter does tend to drip a bit. I would do the filter before going under the car.

 

another note is that the old oil comes out with quite a bit of force! and i always underestimate how far back I need to put the oil collector (I see the guy in your video linked above just about made it :)

 

and lastly, VAG group are very specific to change the sump nut each oil change. basically, its to stop folks over-torqueing an old one trying to get it to seal up properly, and stripping the threads out of the sump. well worth doing imho

 

(my wife has a 140 CR engine in a VW and its exactly the same layout, as are two of my friends passats and its pretty straight forward)

 

That is great thanks!

 

I did have a quick look under the bonnet yesterday to locate the oil filter, there seemed to be quite a few pipes in the way, I remember thinking I'll never be able to get to that. I'll take a proper look later. I'm sure once the engine cover is off things will be a little easier.

 

The removal of the Torx screw was done on another YouTube clip I watched, once this was out the guy was able to push a pipe it was securing out of the way a little, just enough to be able to get his hand in.

 

I thought exactly the same thing! The guy only had a few centimeters spare to catch the oil in his purpose made container, it really streamed out! I have an old washing up bowl so will have to be extra careful. I'll lay a few old towels down on the road.

 

I've seen a few oil filters for sale online and the ones I'm looking at come with the replacement sump plug. Good advice, I'll be sure to replace it too.

Edited by silver1011
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I went to do this myself, bought all the stuff including a new sump plug only to realise the sump plug is on the back of the engine and how inaccessible it is without a 4 post ramp, couldn't get the car on small ramps as the front is that low and long it just pushed them and didn't fancy lying under the car whilst it was on axle stands! Ended up paying for a local garage to do it with the bits I bought.

 

Yeah, I agree a proper lift would make the job so much easier.

 

Up until now I always paid the local dealer the £139 to do the minor / oil change service. I figured that once the DIY material costs were removed (say approx £30-£40 for 5 litres of VW 507 oil, a filter and sump plug) then the £100 to pay to Skoda in order to avoid a few hours of the weekend together with the scrabbling about under the car, then it wasn't a bad deal.

 

Saying that, I fancy the challenge.

 

My biggest concern was the removal of the plastic under tray. My previous car did not have one so once the car was chocked, jacked and supported with axel stands I was straight under the sump plug with plenty of space.

 

I'll have to do the same on the Superb, I'll jack one side up and lower it onto an axel stand, whip the trolley jack around to the other side and lift it up. It can stay on the trolley jack with a second axel stand next to it for safety in case the trolley jack fails.

 

Hopefully this will give me sufficient clearance to crawl under the car on my back and reach all of the Torx screws holding up the plastic under tray.

 

It also looks as though, with the sump plug being where it is, that it is quite far back. Obviously with only the front of the car being jacked up then the further under the car I need to crawl the less room I'll have!

 

A quick question, can I leave the car jacked up to remove all of the old oil, or will I need to drop it back down to ensure I get it all?

 

I was hoping with the sump plug being located on a vertical surface and at the back of the engine (rather than the more traditional horizontally located sump plug) that if the car is jacked up at the front then it will be better for draining all of the oil out as it will run down towards the sump plug?

 

I guess this is unlikely given the design of it will assume the car is level on a four post lift.

 

No major issue but not having to lower the car off the axel stands to drain the oil would save quite a bit of time and effort!

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Safer and easier with ramps. If the angle is too steep you could use these. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/car-ramp-extensions

 

I don't think you'll get any more oil out if you drop it. If you're bothered, poor some fresh oil in the filler which will help flush out the dregs of the old stuff in the sump.

 

Controversially I don't change the filter on an interim oil change just at the variable service as they are good for 20k. I've also never changed a sump plug washer in my life and run my cars to 100k plus miles. On my old Passat 2.8 petrol 4motion the filter was good for 20k and I dropped the oil twice in between filter changes. It was sweet as a nut when I sold it.

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I did consider the ramps. I need to buy a new pair of axel stands anyway (my original two are supporting the little camping trailer in the garage). 

 

My concern with the ramps is that as you drive onto them they'll simply get pushed along by the car? Is this a common issue or is it just in my head!?

 

I've read with interest the debate on swapping the oil filter and sump plug. I can see merit in both sides of the argument. For me there is a little bit of enjoyment about being able to do the job and the satisfaction of doing it so I'm keen to experience the oil filter removal and replacement. As both the filter and sump plug will cost less than a tenner for both I'll give it a whirl this time!

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I did consider the ramps. I need to buy a new pair of axel stands anyway (my original two are supporting the little camping trailer in the garage).

My concern with the ramps is that as you drive onto them they'll simply get pushed along by the car? Is this a common issue or is it just in my head!?

I've read with interest the debate on swapping the oil filter and sump plug. I can see merit in both sides of the argument. For me there is a little bit of enjoyment about being able to do the job and the satisfaction of doing it so I'm keen to experience the oil filter removal and replacement. As both the filter and sump plug will cost less than a tenner for both I'll give it a whirl this time!

It does sometimes happen but not often, if in doubt tie a rope around bottom step on it and feed rope under car wheel which stops it from skipping
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There is a rubber small bore hose that you can undo the holding plate just to the right of the filter, hold it aside and Uri Geller the filter past the metal pipe going to the EGR valve, getting it back in sometimes requires you to fit the filter first then wiggle the cap back on but be careful not to strip the nylon cap threads or the cap will pop up under engine pressure and spew oil.

Edited by Supurbia
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I'm seeing more and more people using these now.

 

I am still a little unsure on their ability to extract all of the oil, then again I can't be sure draining via the sump plug is any more effective either!

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I'm seeing more and more people using these now.

I am still a little unsure on their ability to extract all of the oil, then again I can't be sure draining via the sump plug is any more effective either!

For me it's a no as you can't see swarf on sump plug
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If I was doing it I'd get a magnetic sump plug and stick that in the first time to hopefully collect any loose metal from the oil and then use a pump to change the oil after that. I pay the garage to do it for me though, mainly because my driveway is too sloped to jack a car up on safely and because my weekend time is already in too much demand to spend it under the car... As far as I know the official VAG method recommends sucking the oil out rather than using the sump plug, but when you think about the labour cost to remove the undertray it's probably more of an economic decision rather than an engineering one.

Edited by psycholist
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I've got one of those sealey suction pumps, the pipe goes down the dipstick and sucks the oil out :

 

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sealey-tp69-vacuum-oil-fluid-extractor-manual-6.5ltr-p12233

 

I tried one of those...

If you want to go this route, I'd recommend you buy via Amazon. So if (when) it doesnt work you can easily return it for a refund!

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I've got one of those sealey suction pumps, the pipe goes down the dipstick and sucks the oil out :

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sealey-tp69-vacuum-oil-fluid-extractor-manual-6.5ltr-p12233

I use one of those a lot , pretty essential when I had cars that require fresh oil every 3500 miles , still use it to do an additional change if the oil is looking a bit dirty at the midpoint . Works very well and makes life easy

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I use one of those a lot , pretty essential when I had cars that require fresh oil every 3500 miles , still use it to do an additional change if the oil is looking a bit dirty at the midpoint . Works very well and makes life easy

 

 

BMW 2.5 TDi?

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I'm going to get one of these as access to the top of the filter housing looks tight, especially once you have a traditional 32mm socket and the wrench on top!

 

I see these dedicated shallow sockets come well recommended.

 

Anyone got or used one?

 

$T2eC16Z,!ykE9s7t)2i(BQrOsnt(jQ~~60_12.J

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Tool-73618-Oil-Filter-Cap-Socket-32mm-6-Point-3-8-Drive-/141032583139

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I also use a pela extraction pump and a normal socket works a treat on the filter cap, it should only be a little more than hand tight so comes undone easily.

I've used the pump about 4 times now and it has easily paid for itself, plus no hassle taking to a garage etc etc.

The air filter is also easy as is the pollen filter, with the fuel filter you just have to be careful when tightening the bolts on the lid to avoid warping it has its thin metal.

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I HAD to buy a 32mm socket for my 140CR VW EOS oil filter as the main dealer grease monkey did the filter cap up so tight that my tube socket would not undo it anymore. The torque for the filter cap is molded into the cap upper surface, 18lbf ft. I have fitted a magnetic sump plug, 22lbf ft.

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Don't know why Skoda doesn't cut the under tray, so access to the sump plug can be gained without removing the tray,

with the tray being plastic a small mod with a hacksaw might just make enough clearance.

Edited by skippy41
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Hmmm, all the clips I've seen of CR140 oil filter change have shown the oil filters with the leg on the bottom, like this...

071115562c-mann.jpg

 

However, my engine code (CFFB) would suggest that my oil filter will look more like this (without the leg)...

 

ADV182110-2.jpg

Edited by silver1011
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