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Oil and Air Filter Change - Skoda Superb CR140 (CFFB)


silver1011

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EDIT: Thanks to Photobucket all my photo's have disappeared, I've added them all to the end of this thread instead.

 

When researching what I needed to do for a DIY oil change on my 2011 CR140 Skoda Superb (engine code CFFB) I struggled to find a step-by-step guide.

 

This YouTube video was a great start...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxVjEZpCtXM

 

After asking a few more questions on here...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/343091-diy-oil-change-cr140/

 

...I finally felt confident enough to have a go myself.

 

When looking for the parts I discovered that my engine required an oil filter like this...

 

...so I was a little surprised when this turned up. I wasn't overly concerned as all the video clips I'd seen showed the long black plastic stem on the end...

 

Anyway I ordered genuine Skoda parts, an oil filter, air filter and sump plug from Rainworth Skoda in Mansfield. They have an online eBay shop called 'number1forskoda'...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/number1forskoda?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

 

All the parts were £20.99 delivered...

 

I already had 5 litres of VW507.00 oil from Halfords in the garage...

 

...but I noticed a listing for 5 litres of Quantum oil from an Audi dealer in Cardiff for £27 delivered so I grabbed one of these two for next time.

 

So, handbrake on tight and 1st gear engaged. I didn't have a set of chocks for the rear wheels but if you do then I guess these would be a good additional safety precaution.

 

Out comes the trolley jack and soft rubber ice hockey puck with a groove cut in it. Up it goes...

 

I was looking for the aluminium block to use to hold the car on with the axle stands but I couldn't see it. Instead I used these locations instead. Not sure if they are suitable so fingers crossed no damage has been done...

 

The oil filter is under somewhere!

 

Once the engine cover is off it is slightly more visible!

 

To remove the engine cover simply pull it up towards the bonnet in each of the four corners and it pops off.

 

To ensure I could remove the filter I unclipped this electrical sensor. There is a little black clip holding it to a small metal bracket, you can just see it here...

 

Once unclipped the sensor slides down the metal bracket towards the floor. Once clear I pushed it up and wedged it out of the way...

 

To move it far enough out of the way I also popped off the two rubber pipes from there push fit holders, just behind and to the right of the sensor.

 

I also moved the thick wiring harness out from behind it's metal 'U' clip and pushed it over to the right. This clip needs pushing back when the filter is being extracted, trust me every millimeter helps!

 

Here is the sensor tucked out of the way showing the lid of the oil filter housing with it's 32mm nut on top...

 

I tried my normal wrench but it was having none of it, would it heck budge!

 

Once I got the breaker bar on the end it came off a treat!

 

I bought a low profile 32mm socket thinking I would need it to fit in, but a normal 32mm socket also worked a treat.

 

I covered the top of the open filter housing to stop anything falling in...

 

Pulling the old filter out (still attached to the threaded filter housing lid) I was a little concerned to see the length of the stem, it was quite a bit longer than the replacement filter I had ready to go in...

 

At first I thought the end of the original filter stem would pull off or detach and could be pushed onto the end of the new filters stem, but alas no, I had been supplied the wrong filter, grrr!

 

Follow a quick dash to the local motor factors in town. I gave them the VIN and they brought out the correct filter. The old filter simply pulls out of the filter housing lid, the long stem is part of the filter housing lid. The filter slides down over the stem and off. The new filter is fed over the stem and is a tight push fit into the filter housing lid. Job done, no thanks to Rainworth Skoda parts department!

 

£8.50 lighter for a non-branded filter but at this point my options were limited!

 

Edited by silver1011
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There are three replacement seals, one big one in the threads of the filter housing lid and two smaller ones down on the end of the stem, these are easily removed and replaced with a screwdriver and some of the old oil smeared on them. They came supplied with the filter.

 

Now underneath the car to drop the engine undertray...

 

There are 8x T25 (Torx) screws, four down each side...

 

Then there are 3x T40 (Torx) along the back of the undertray...

 

These were very tight suggesting the oil on my car has never been dropped from the sump plug, main dealers suck it out of the dip stick tube these days I believe.

 

Once all the screws are out the undertray flops down. There are several fingers and two lugs that simply push slide under the front bumper...

 

Some interesting shapes, hollows and recesses on the top side of the undertray, I'm guessing this is some kind of sound suppression? They are great dirt and grit traps!

 

You can see here that when I removed the old oil filter some oil dripped down onto the undertray, good job it caught the spillage, can't see the neighbours been happy with oil patches all over the street!

 

Sump plug revealed right at the back of the engine...

 

19mm socket needed here...

 

Plenty of towels and the trusty old washing up bowl in location. If you check out the video linked at the beginning of this thread you'll see how fast the oil comes out. I was nervous as I was winding out the sump plug!

 

Struck oil!

 

Old vs.new sump plug...

 

Whilst the engine oil and making its way out I started on the air filter...

 

Roughly 8x T25 (Torx) screws, all very easy to access.

 

They don't pull out completely, just loosen them off...

 

The lid then pulls up enough to gain access. The old filter simply lifts out...

 

Old filter, upside down...

 

Edited by silver1011
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There is a little shelf in the bottom of the filter box that simply lifts out...

 

I could see some leaves underneath the tray...

 

A quick blast with the hoover got all of the tiny crispy bits of leaves out!

 

In with the new filter...

 

Old next to new...

 

Filter housing lid back on and by now the oil had all drained...

 

Off with the oil filler cap, there was loads of dirt around the rim. I was in two minds wheter to disturb it or not, I did not want it dropping into the engine. I couldn't leave it so very carefully cleaned it off...

 

In the with funnel...

 

I noticed some muck on the cap too, so off it came!

 

In with the oil...

 

Not sure if you can see the level window on the bottle but after what I thought would be about 4.3 litres in the engine there was still nothing showing on the dipstick, so another few glugs!

 

Edited by silver1011
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You put the oil in with the car jacked up still? Might have over filled then as the sump wouldn't have been level and as the dipstick is at the front it would have taken more to get it to the max mark. Not saying you have done it this way but as I didn't read/see you had it back down on terra firma I'll assume you didn't. Also an idea to fill it up then run car for a bit to get oil in to the filter/housing and check for leaks around the sump plug/filter. Then turn off,give a couple of minutes for oil to drain back into the sump and then take a dipstick level again and top up again if needed. You may be OK as again I'll 'assume' you didn't do the run up to fill filter housing/check for leaks and this would have taken your level down a bit.

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That's a fantastic step by step with lots of little extras in there as well (e.g. lubing / greasing rubber and screws).

Thank you for taking the time to document it all.

Out of curiosity, was there any reason you didn't do the fuel filter as well?

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Get yourself a Pela or Sealey vacuum pump. You can do the whole oil change in 20 minutes without having to put the car in the air, and clear out the old oil from your filter housing and oil cooler while you are at it. :)

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You put the oil in with the car jacked up still? Might have over filled then as the sump wouldn't have been level and as the dipstick is at the front it would have taken more to get it to the max mark. Not saying you have done it this way but as I didn't read/see you had it back down on terra firma I'll assume you didn't. Also an idea to fill it up then run car for a bit to get oil in to the filter/housing and check for leaks around the sump plug/filter. Then turn off,give a couple of minutes for oil to drain back into the sump and then take a dipstick level again and top up again if needed. You may be OK as again I'll 'assume' you didn't do the run up to fill filter housing/check for leaks and this would have taken your level down a bit.

 

Yes, the oil was filled with the front of the car still up in the air. At this point is was right on the MAX mark on the dipstick. I figured at this point that the oil filter housing would still be empty of oil? After dropping it down onto the ground I started the engine and left it idling for a few minutes and then reversed it back onto the drive.

 

After spending an hour washing it I checked the level again and it was still on the MAX mark. This would suggest that you could be right in that having the car up in the air I might have overfilled it, saved perhaps by the excess oil filling the oil filter housing?

 

After washing it I took it round the block (sounds daft but my brakes rust on overnight if I don't!) and checked it again and it was still on max.

 

Either way, good advice I'll drop the car down before filling it with oil next time.

 

The only reason I left it up was that I wanted to be sure there were no leaks, now I've done it once I'm sure the next time will be easier!

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nice job, thanks for the heads up there. What was the mileage on the air filter please?

 

Thanks! The air filter was last changed by the main dealer at the cars last service at 50,308 miles / 29th August 2014.

 

The new filter went in yesterday (7th March 2015) at 65,331 miles.

 

So the old filter in the pictures has done 15,023 miles or just over 6 months.

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You have been busy!

 

I felt it this morning, I'm perhaps getting a little too old to be crawling under cars!

 

I took the opportunity to swap out the 12V - 5V adaptor on my Mobius dash-cam to the same 12V cigar socket / USB adaptor as you.

 

I'll up date that thread too  :thumbup:

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Nice little guide and I am sure others will appreciate all the photos. Well done for putting the effort in as I know it adds loads of extra time.

 

Cheers mate, I've had plenty of help from you guys over the years so it's only fair to share my experiences too!

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That's a fantastic step by step with lots of little extras in there as well (e.g. lubing / greasing rubber and screws).

Thank you for taking the time to document it all.

Out of curiosity, was there any reason you didn't do the fuel filter as well?

 

Thank you, I wanted to do the fuel filter (again loads of useful YouTube clips), however I have had conflicting advice on whether the fuel pump needs priming using VCDS to vent any trapped air?

 

There are stories of guys having to crank the car for ages before it'll fire-up, sometimes having to admit defeat.

 

The filter replacement itself seems straight forward so if I can be convinced I won't bugger things up I'll give it a go!

 

I was going to do the pollen filter too.

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A word of caution for anyone considering a DIY oil change... used diesel oil is carcinogenic, so ALWAYS wear latex gloves.

 

Good call.

 

When I was caught on the hop in the motor factors I had to pull off the old filter from the lid to be 100% sure the new one would fit before I left.

 

This resulted in a lot of oil on my hands. The guy gave me some blue roll to clean the worst off and offered the use of their sink to wash my hands but I said I was OK.

 

On the drive home I felt my skin stinging a little. Gave my hands a good wash when I got home.

 

The stupid thing is I have a box of latex gloves in the garage. My bad. Another lesson learnt for next time.

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Get yourself a Pela or Sealey vacuum pump. You can do the whole oil change in 20 minutes without having to put the car in the air, and clear out the old oil from your filter housing and oil cooler while you are at it. :)

 

I did research this quite a bit before deciding to drain through the sump.

 

I am very much on the fence with regards to the ability of the pump to extract of all the oil and the debris / sludge it holds.

 

In the end spending some time jacking up the car and laying on my back versus the £80 cost of the pump won.

 

Judging by the state of the screws and undertray my car has never had its oil dropped via the sump so it seems that all of the main dealers my car has visited in its life all use pumps, this must mean the process is approved by VAG meaning it can't be a bad thing?

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Good call.

When I was caught on the hop in the motor factors I had to pull off the old filter from the lid to be 100% sure the new one would fit before I left.

This resulted in a lot of oil on my hands. The guy gave me some blue roll to clean the worst off and offered the use of their sink to wash my hands but I said I was OK.

On the drive home I felt my skin stinging a little. Gave my hands a good wash when I got home.

The stupid thing is I have a box of latex gloves in the garage. My bad. Another lesson learnt for next time.

You want nitrile gloves not latex

Latex just disintegrates when in contact with hydrocarbons.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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Judging by the state of the screws and undertray my car has never had its oil dropped via the sump so it seems that all of the main dealers my car has visited in its life all use pumps, this must mean the process is approved by VAG meaning it can't be a bad thing?

 

The factory manual (for at least my Mk1 1.9) states that either drain or vacuum are acceptable methods.  (there are some Audi engines which cannot be vacuum'd due to a baffle in the sump)

 

I've vacuum'd for the last 65,000 miles and not had any issue -but I guess that doesn't mean much.  I don't do anything on my car with the wheels off the ground apart from wheel changes, so for me it is my only option.

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Fuel pump will self prime or refill it before you put the lid back on, if you don't simply ign on ign off a few times and it will prime itself for you,

 

Wouldn't recommend where you jacked near the sill, hopefully you got away with it this time,

 

Filter is a bit of a mystery, the one they supplied you is very common for VAG cars and I'd have bet on it being the correct one tbh,

 

Glad you got it done ok and great write up.

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Interesting on the fuel filter, if that's the case I might give it a go.

Do you mean the jacking points or where the axle stands are? The trolley jack is under the recommended jacking points (identified by the arrows pressed into the sills), this is where the factory supplied scissor jack would locate. I've used these locations quite a few times when swapping the winter wheels over.

The axle stands I'm not sure of, I'll gladly take recommendations for next time. I did look for the aluminium block as recommended in another thread but couldn't see them on my car...

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When I did my Octavia Tdi I had no issues with needing to prime the pump.

I've just ordered oil & fuel filters for my Yeti and will report back on that this weekend I hope.

I know neither are Superbs, but I can't see them being that much different with regards to this issue.

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I did research this quite a bit before deciding to drain through the sump.

 

I am very much on the fence with regards to the ability of the pump to extract of all the oil and the debris / sludge it holds.

 

In the end spending some time jacking up the car and laying on my back versus the £80 cost of the pump won.

 

Judging by the state of the screws and undertray my car has never had its oil dropped via the sump so it seems that all of the main dealers my car has visited in its life all use pumps, this must mean the process is approved by VAG meaning it can't be a bad thing?

 

My main dealer always charges for a new sump washer so I assume my oil always

gets dropped.

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