Starting my own thread to avoid hijacking someone else's any further. 

 

Noticed significant play in the right side track/tie rod inner balljoint on my 53-plate Polo, which I believe to be a near identical set-up to the Fabia Mk1. It's the TRW system, judging by what's written on the green cap on the reservoir.

 

Haynes (Fabia and Polo, both same) hints at access being an issue, but doesn't say whether this is worse on the left or right (more room to see from above for the left/passenger side, but not sure there's any difference from level/below).

 

This page makes it sound quite tricky. First saying you must remove the whole rack from the vehicle to start off, then adding that to be able to counterhold the rack while removing or installing the right track rod, you have to take the boot off the left side to get at flats for your counter-holdy spanner.  

 

I'm also a bit confused by Wooody's comment in the other thread that you can unscrew the track rod from the rack by turning it via the flats on the rod itself.  Isn't that meant to rotate within the inner balljoint (for adjusting the tracking)?  Maybe yours was so far gone it had seized up, Wooody? :think:

I've replaced about 10 now.

It's a fairly simple job, providing you have the tools!

I'll try and explain here...

-crack off the securing/locking nut in the rack end going to the track rod end, check it's free.

- remove the nut from the track rod end and impact the hub to free it.

-unscrew the track rod end and put to one side with the nut on to keep the threads clean.

-remove the metal clip on the steering rack boot, a few ways to do it depending what tools you have, I've seen them simply unclip, hammer off, pry off and cut off with an air grinder. I personally use my snap on hook tool which works wonders.

- With both clips removed pull the boot off.

- you will now see the joint. Set the steering lock to the best place for access, usually full lock.

- put the tool on to simply remove. If you don't have the tool I've used mole grips in the past which works quite well but will usually need knocking with a hammer to free off.

That's about it to remove it, I'm sure you can do the opposite to refit the new one. I've checked torque figures in the past and haven't found much, I usually put a dab of lock tight on now.

As for using the flats to turn it, the inner part that holds the ball joint is solid and where it screws in and out of.

The tool is a craw foot spanner also.

But this is what I use.

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/news.aspx?article=678

As per above. Easy job, just the access is a problem! Did both mine with the engine out thankfully, with a massive dewalt adjustable (think its 34mm on the inner track rods?).

Gents, that's very encouraging, cheers!

 

I got rod and new outer end (Delphi) for £30 total from Allparts earlier, which I was fairly chuffed with; ECP didn't have it locally, and I've had mixed experiences with them.

 

I made a half-arsed crows-foot spanner out of the only bit of steel I could find earlier, but at only about 2mm thick, I have grave doubts about its man-enoughness.

 

 

Sorry if that's come out huge. That's 32mm A/F, and 3/8 square drives.  Reckon it'll bend too much, too fast, but you never know!

Yeah, that may well bend.

I'm for an easy life so always used two half inch extension bars and then a power bar and even then it needed a little force before it cracked off.

Might have a chat with a more mechanically adept friend tomorrow about a more robust version.

 

Thanks again.

The manuals are correct, you really should hold the rack whilst undoing/tightening the track rods.

 

As twisting the rack can damage the pinion gear as its never designed to take forces turning it.

Thanks, sounds reasonable. Hopefully I can release (and re-use) the 'big' clips on the bellows of one or both sides depending on where I find these flats for counterholding. I guess jubilee clips will do as replacements if I can't re-use.

I got replacements with mine, getting the tool in to crimp them correctly is another matter.

Big heavy duty cable ties will do the same job.

Think I'll modify this tomorrow, 4mm off each side. 10mm thick, but probably not the finest Sheffield/Swedish/anywhere respectable steel.  Biggest one of a cheap set someone bought me for Christmas a couple of years back (and never yet used).

 

 

Anyone know what size spanner'll fit the flats on the rack?

 

 

Edit: Man! that 3/8 square hole looks rough! Will have to have it the right way round for undoing and doing up, with the 'more meat' side orientated to suit.

 

In case anyone is wondering why I don't just buy the right tool - they're like £35+  from what I can see.

Making tools is more fun anyway, much more of an achievement.

You can probably hold the rack with a pair of grips/water pump pliers.

Save taking the other boot off

Just ensure your grips have a good bite and don't let them slip and damage rack.

If you do it the way the manual says it will deffo be a two man job,with grips holding the rack you should be able to do it on your own.

If you do it they way, wrap an old rag around it first to protect it.

Well I modified that chunky crows foot thing to the necessary 32mm, got an adjustable bolted to a long bit of steel for counter-holding, then gathered all my stuff for this and the console bush change, and jacked up the offside front corner of the car. Not liking the look of the access to the boot clips, especially the inner one, I thought I'd just give everything a good waggle to double-check my diagnosis...

 

... and guess what?  I've no idea how I managed to convince myself that there was loads of play at the inner joint, 'cos there's not (any).

 

Carried on with the console bush, which went pretty well, and decided to let the impending MOT tell me whether there was anything else amiss.

 

Sure enough, passed with no advisories that had anything to do with the steering gear. Just 'poor condition' rear discs, dim number plate light, and one about seatbelt retraction.

 

I've rarely been happier to have completely cocked up a diagnosis. :sun:

It was the MOT guy that commented on the slack on the track rod that made me replace both sides. As you pointed out, getting the inner bellows clamps on was a bit of a pain, getting them off was easy - long screw driver I seem it recall, I had bought new clamps just in case of trouble, tightening the inner ones was done using blunted wire cutters. I was very concerned about transmitting rotational forces through the rack to its pinion, but almost two years on and quite a few miles, car still seems okay!

 

One comment though, replacing these track rods is a piece of cake when compared with replacing them on say 1970s Fords, back then you had to drill out locking dowel pin, replace rod with ball end + spring + nylon cup all greased up, then tighten the retaining steel nut/cup until the articulation was correct.

 

Final note on used track rods, generally speaking if they are stiff to move and stay horizontal when you move them into that position, then they still have life left in them, if they flop down they need replacing.

Edited 22 March, 201511 yr by rum4mo

Seen this a bit late. I didn't mean turning the rod by the locknut, but at the inner joint. The same flats as you use with the crow's foot spanner, just if you lower the wishbone you get access for a standard big adjustable spanner.