...Does it have a subwoofer output or no?

Getting a port done to me cabinet to improve the low-end response too, but just wanted to know if the HU has a subwoofer output, considering the fact that Skoda also have a subwoofer in their inventory..

If its the same as the octy one, it has line outs. The connection is on the mini iso connector, and its the same connection as used by blaupunkt.

This is the one I have...

The line-outs will be the speaker line outs, 2 for front, two for rear. Sub-out will be separate, sending filtered low-end signal only? Do you know if this has it?

No it doesnt have pre outs for subs or amps. Just line outs for speakers left and right and front and rear.

:( Okay thanks

No it doesnt have pre outs for subs or amps. Just line outs for speakers left and right and front and rear.

Nope you're wrong. You can buy a mini iso cable that provides an output. I know as I have one fitted to my Symphony.

I ordered mine from bluespot.co.uk

http://www.bluespot.co.uk/stock/preamp.asp

Des

Nope you're wrong. You can buy a mini iso cable that provides an output. I know as I have one fitted to my Symphony.

I ordered mine from bluespot.co.uk

http://www.bluespot.co.uk/stock/preamp.asp

Des

Okay thanks So what price we lookin' at for the cable? And how would you make the connections?

Okay thanks So what price we lookin' at for the cable? And how would you make the connections?

Theyre a tenner over here-

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/4178.html

Nope you're wrong. You can buy a mini iso cable that provides an output. I know as I have one fitted to my Symphony.

I stil stick by my statement that the headunit doesnt have any pre outs. You may wel lbe able to buy a line out convertor that plugs into it, but what I meant is it doesnt have phono outputs that you can connect to an amp.

If they are purely bass signals' date=' then it is what I think ISO stands for...an frequency isolator.[/quote']

No afraid not, ISO just indicates an industry standard, meaning if it has ISO connectors anything will plug into it that also has ISO connectors. The same that single DIN headunits are an ISO standard.

And im pretty sure the signal out of that lead it full signal and the Skoda/Blaupunkt active subs have crossovers built into them to filter out the unwanted frequencies.

It's just a preamp cable dude. This is not what I need. Like Lummox has already said, I just found out from another source that the HU does not have a subwoofer out, which is what I need. With a subwoofer out, the signal that goes through is filtered at more than 12db per octave at about 120Hz, and gives off purely bass signals. This cable is only a preamp cable which you would use to connect to separate amplifiers from the HU to drive four full range speakers.

No afraid not' date=' ISO just indicates an industry standard, meaning if it has ISO connectors anything will plug into it that also has ISO connectors. The same that single DIN headunits are an ISO standard.

And im pretty sure the signal out of that lead it full signal and the Skoda/Blaupunkt active subs have crossovers built into them to filter out the unwanted frequencies.[/quote']

Oh it's that kind of ISO, as in International Standards Org...I know what ISO is, I do not know why it slipped through my head

Thanks Ross.

The Symphony doesnt have a sub out that much is true. But why can you run that full range channel to an active/passive crossover? Or set up your sub amplifier to sun at sub frequencies, most have this facility especially mono sub amps.

The amplifier I have only has a filter. The basic principle is like that in live sound.

Say I've got a three-way system going, subs, mids and highs. To get these individual bands workin', I'll need a mixing console to send the stereo signal into a 3-way crossover, set the filters and take the outs from there into three different amps to drive a subwoofer, a mid-range horn and a big-a$$ tweeter. A 3-way cross-over works by splitting a normal full range signal into 3, bass, mids & highs, and filtering it steeply so there is no bleed from the individual bands into each other. The crossover settings will insure this. Some powered mixing consoles however will have a sub-woofer out, and through this output, the full-range signal has already been steeply filtered at say below 80Hz, to give only bass signals.

I need to buy a passive crossover. However, I can't find any here :(

I'm getting the cabinet ported to improve the bass response. It's alright as it is, but with the help of the acoustics of the car, I know the ports will help me reach the <50Hz realm...I'll ask them again tonight if they have a crossover though.

Again, thanks Ross

Something like that then would do inline with the sub wouldnt it? So amp gets full signal but only the sub frequencies go to the speaker

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/100-WATT-STEREO-SUBWOOFER-CROSSOVER-LITTLE-USE_W0QQitemZ5817339179QQcategoryZ18805QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or you could get someting like this..

And run that in between the headunit and the amps so the amps nly get thier required signals for their speakers.

It is unusal to amp tweeters on their own, usually you would buy a set of components and they have thier own passive network with them to give each speaker the correct sound. My Alpine SPX components however can be bi-amped so your can run all four speakers (two mids and two tweeters off a four channel amp).

Well dude...

Had some two ports done to the cabinet tonight...but it totally destroyed the bass element. If I could I would use the Thiel-Small parameter guideline but I ain't goin' down that route. Was never really happy with the response of my Eminence woofer as well...it only gave me a low of 65Hz...

So I've ordered a brand new Earthquake subwoofer...Tremor XR12. Powerful subwoofer, looks good too. Click on the link to check it out:

http://www.earthquakesound.com/tremor.htm

The crossover I've found today is an 'Absolute CR100' subwoofer crossover, check out this picture:

With the new sub and a new cabinet design, I will have this crossover fitted in between the HU and the amp to give me on bass frequencies.

In pro sound it ain't unusual to have a separate amp running tweeters:)

The most powerful club system in the world is the Dynacord Alpha concept system. The subwoofer is massive and has twin 18"s, running 2000 watts, and the tops are 1500 watts. The tops alone need three amps to drive it, split signals for low, mid and highs using a speaker management system processor. The tops have twin 15"s, a massive mid ragne horn and two super tweeters. And then there's the subs which are driven with one amp...in effect, it's a four way system...believe me dude, it is huge..

Check out:

www.dynacord.com

Anyways, tomorrow I'll be taking my car in, and the woofer will be fitted in. I'll post pics as soon as I can.

Thanks for everything Ross.

Your welcome. I am by no means an ICE guru but i'm also learning a fair bit building up my system (only have about a third of the space to fill as you though )

Mil> what amp(s) do you have?

Earthquake Powerhouse 700 IIRC. Why?

Just to see if it has low-pass filter built in...and it does (in fact it has LP, BP and HP), so I don't see why would you need an active (or passive) crossover for the sub when you can use the one inside the amp. Passive crossovers are a pain in the neck because you need to buy/build one that matches your subwoofer and its parameters.

It only has a LP filter man, I've played with it too many times to know. The issue with it is the fact that it's cut off slope is too gentle and it doesn't cut off low enough to keep bleeding mids out. These amps are meant to work with after market units that have subwoofer outputs, and the filters give you the chance to tweak the amp to your prefered setting.

A crossover is nothing more than a a couple of electronics resistors, transistors and the lot that work to steeply cut off a band of frequencies it was designed to start & end at, and the steepness of the filter is much greater than that of a regular filter. In the pro audio industry, you do not need a crossover to match with any parameters of any amplifiers, so I don't see why this is the case with car audio. It's only the movement of a signal from one location, undergoing processing, and then moving onto the next location, so I don't believe what you say is true. It's just a crossover, a signal processor.

I believe the filter in my amp is a first-order filter, which is not very steep. A crossover will have very steep filters to allow only the required band of frequencies to pass through, crossovers IIRC have 2nd & 3rd order filters, which are very steep, and therefore do not allow bleeding of bands into one another territories.

Check out the graph I did so you can understand where I'm getting at. The 1st one kind of represents the mess I'm going through because of the gentle filter my amp has (then again, it's supposed to work with a preamp that has a sub-out). At the cut-off frequency, the slope is 'gentle', i.e., the dB/Octave is low at something like 9dB/Octave cut-off, and therefore you are able to hear more low-mid bleed at about 200Hz.

The 2nd order filter however, is a much steeper slope, say something like 18dB/Octave, & therefore you get half the bleed coming through.

This is why I need a crossover, the filters are much better than that in the amp, which is understandable.

I know what a crossover is since I've built a bunch of them and this is what I am studying. I didn't say you need to match the crossovers with AMPLIFIER but with SPEAKER. Every speaker has its resistance and inductivity. If CAN happen that a passive crossover connected to a speaker will behave as short-circuit at one frequency which can destroy an amplifier's outputs.

Your amp has a 3rd order crossover which is 18dB/octave (unless the specifications are wrong, which I doubt they are). Crossover are not necessarly 2nd or 3rd order. They can be 1st order as well (6dB/oct.) If you have mids bleeding in, then just lower the crossover frequency a little bit and problem solved. You can't expect a crossover to eliminate all frequencies above a set point. You'll always have a little bit "bleeding" from mid-range depending on the slope.

The specs state a 3rd order of 18dB/Oct? Okay then, I'll have a fiddle with the filter again. However, the problem is man, when I set the filter at 120Hz I get bleed. If I set it at 80Hz, I still have bleed, but I lose the kick element because kick-drums are dominant in the 100-120Hz range. I know what I'm saying in this case, somethin ain't right about the filter I have.

I've just had my sub changed. As a car audio sub, maybe the frequency response at the higher band of frequencies is lower than the old one I had...like I said, I'll have another play with the filter and keep you updated.

Thanks for the reply. I din't mean to insult your intelligence, I din't know you were in the electronics field. Apologies.