N 903 053 04 is another number for the shield retaining bolts - again now hex headed.

16 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

N 903 053 04 is another number for the shield retaining bolts - again now hex headed.

thank you, i have ordered the first link.

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, rum4mo said:

N 903 053 04 is another number for the shield retaining bolts - again now hex headed.

my budget is only about 30 pound, i know it is not alot but could you recommend me a good enough blow torch to get rid of seized bolt please?

 

i might be able put price up though.

Toolstation sell this one - https://www.toolstation.com/auto-blowlamp/p78079

 

The reviews claim is it hot enough/powerful enough to do what you want to do, I've never bought that one, my one costs a bit more - but that was what was available when I needed to replace a gas blow torch 20ish years ago.

12 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Toolstation sell this one - https://www.toolstation.com/auto-blowlamp/p78079

 

The reviews claim is it hot enough/powerful enough to do what you want to do, I've never bought that one, my one costs a bit more - but that was what was available when I needed to replace a gas blow torch 20ish years ago.

thank you, i will see if i can get that tomorrow.

i keep looking at this one as people are saying map ones are very good

 

https://www.toolstation.com/vortex-map-torch-pack/p71324

13 hours ago, rum4mo said:

N 903 053 04 is another number for the shield retaining bolts - again now hex headed.

if i could change my budget, would the above be better?

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

i keep looking at this one as people are saying map ones are very good

 

https://www.toolstation.com/vortex-map-torch-pack/p71324

 

Well any gas torch used with MAP gas will have a hotter flame than one using Butane or Propane.

The problem with these bolts isn't that they are seized, just that heads are rusted to buggery. Irwin extractors are probably the tool for the job, or the slot cutting that the OP mentioned already.

Stainless replacements might avoid recurrence but realistically the car probably won't last long enough for another replacement to be needed.

On 20/05/2018 at 10:56, xman said:

I don't know why garage mechanics seem to always over tighten everything 

 

So they can snap it off next year and sell you a new one.

ok an update:

 

i made a slot and tried to undo them, i couldnt undo any of the bolts, maybe i need to use a blow torch after all 😞 

Can you put up a picture of the problem area? A visual might help us figure out a solution.

its just the 3 bolts that is holding the dust shield up on the front wheels.

It's not clear from the diagram in the service manual (the only reference I have for this) if the heads are inset into the heat shield or proud of it: if they're proud of it you could try grabbing the heads with a vice grips or a small stilson wrench. The blowtorch might help break them free but you'll want to be careful not to damage the wheel bearing that's beside them.

 

It looks like the holes in the wheel bearing housing are through holes (the bolt goes through the part and out the other side) so if you had some decent penetrating oil, I'd squirt a bunch of it in from the back and let it sit for a few hours. Repeat this a few more times before you try removing the bolts again.

thank you

 

i will buy a blow torch and try the job again when it arrives.

 

im thinking of getting this one:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rothenberger-Super-Fire-2-Blow-Brazing-Torch-Mapp-Gas-Plumbing-Soldeing/172242135947?hash=item281a6e6b8b:g:tiUAAOSwkXdav7Z7

Why do you always want to jump to the most expensive solution to your car problems? A can of penetrating oil will be a fraction of the cost of a gas torch and could well sort this out. And if it doesn't then you can still go to the gas torch. As I mentioned above too, applying heat around there is risky, especially for a novice, given that the wheel bearing is in the same housing and that won't take kindly to being heated.

im only thinking ahead if i cant undo with a wrench then ive got the torch with  me instead of waiting few days to get the job done.

i have got some wd40 so i will spray some n and wait few hours.

From memory I think these bolts have a dome shaped head, well on

my car.
I know I had to use a centre punch on one of the bolts on outer edge of the bolt head to start it moving. (Even after liberal penetrating oil). 
It was easier in my case as I was replacing the wheel bearing and access was easier as hub was out of the way.