Hey all coming home today, driving fine in 3rd, put in 4th and the engine revs and no 4th, fourth up the road slow down and lose everything, manage to get it to engage 1st and get home like that.

Parked up and left for a few short time, went back out and it selected everygear fine.

Then it didn't.

Any ideas, I'm thinking new clutch?

Try resetting the gear linkage first.

 

But sounds very similar to the symptoms my brother experienced on his RX8 before the clutch bearing gave out and his clutch was on the edge too.

Cheers, linkage reset is the first thing I was thinking and then release bearing, was thinking that previously due to car creep with the pedal depressed.

Makes sense it being that as plenty of power when it is in gear.

Any chance it could be the master cylinder? And if so how could I check?

Any chance it could be the master cylinder? And if so how could I check?

 

If the clutch pedal pumps up then it could be a failed seal, I'm not really clear whether you're saying that you can't select a gear when this happens or whether you can select the gear but nothing happens as if the clutch were still disengaged even though you've lifted off the pedal.

 

When it happens try pumping the clutch pedal and see if you can get it into gear.

If the clutch pedal pumps up then it could be a failed seal, I'm not really clear whether you're saying that you can't select a gear when this happens or whether you can select the gear but nothing happens as if the clutch were still disengaged even though you've lifted off the pedal.

When it happens try pumping the clutch pedal and see if you can get it into gear.

Cheers, will try Tomoz, it's hit and miss whether it go into gear at all when it first started I tried to select 4th but it wouldn't engage but it would let me put it back in 3rd

Almost similar to when my clutch failed on the Pulsar. I was taking it for a spirited drive when coming up behind another car so I dropped it down a a gear then nothing, I couldn't select any gear but with the engine off I could.

 

Cut a long story short the release bearing was shot which I already knew due to noise without the clutch pressed and also a broken friction plate.

 

Sounds like your going to need to get the box off to have a proper look. Never ideal but at least it gives you a chance to put a new clutch kit in.

Right well a positive development, basically managed to sort myself.

Went to look at gear linkages before taking to garage and I found the nut on the top if the selector was loose, reset (a little trial and error) and tightened the nut up and all appears well! (for now) cheers for all of your input guys!

well after a day or so driving fine. this has occurred again on the way to work ( just now) I've felt and confirmed that the nut has come loose again, so ive tightened this up to get me home (without 1st, 3rd, 5th or reverse).

 

I am now wondering if there is an underlying cause to this nut coming loose? or is there a simple solution I could adopt? (I did make sure it was pretty tight when I 'fixed' it last time)

 

Cheers,

 

Kyle

well after a day or so driving fine. this has occurred again on the way to work ( just now) I've felt and confirmed that the nut has come loose again, so ive tightened this up to get me home (without 1st, 3rd, 5th or reverse).

 

I am now wondering if there is an underlying cause to this nut coming loose? or is there a simple solution I could adopt? (I did make sure it was pretty tight when I 'fixed' it last time)

 

Cheers,

 

Kyle

 Use some loctite or a nyloc nut that way it won't rattle loose.

 

Edit you could even put a spring washer on there either way they all will do the same job.

Use some loctite or a nyloc nut that way it won't rattle loose.

Edit you could even put a spring washer on there either way they all will do the same job.

Cheers I was thinking locktite

If using loctite (thread lock) make sure the threads are clean so it can do it's thing. I prefer nyloc nuts if the application is suitable as it's just easier but a tube of thread lock is handy to have as it can be used in various circumstances.

 

BTW I made a similar mistake years ago when reassembling gear linkage parts, I put copper grease on all the bolts ect. I Wouldn't make the same mistake again though.

If using loctite (thread lock) make sure the threads are clean so it can do it's thing. I prefer nyloc nuts if the application is suitable as it's just easier but a tube of thread lock is handy to have as it can be used in various circumstances.

BTW I made a similar mistake years ago when reassembling gear linkage parts, I put copper grease on all the bolts ect. I Wouldn't make the same mistake again though.

well I tightened it up then gave a generous spray of wd40 as figured it was excess friction which had caused it to come lose in the first place.

Thanks for the tip about cleaning the threads up, I've never used it before. I'd consider nyloc but wouldn't know the size or where to buy.

Well can get them from toolstation, it's just the size

well after a day or so driving fine. this has occurred again on the way to work ( just now) I've felt and confirmed that the nut has come loose again, so ive tightened this up to get me home (without 1st, 3rd, 5th or reverse).

 

I am now wondering if there is an underlying cause to this nut coming loose? or is there a simple solution I could adopt? (I did make sure it was pretty tight when I 'fixed' it last time)

 

Cheers,

 

Kyle

there is m8 the arm is ali and the splines wear I had the same problem cost me £40 odd quid for a complete new arm

there is m8 the arm is ali and the splines wear I had the same problem cost me £40 odd quid for a complete new arm

Cheers Steve.

Just to confirm its the nut in the pic I've circled, was this the one for you Steve?

If you tightened it with a 13mm socket then it's an M8 thread and an M8 Nyloc nut will stop it coming undone.

well I tightened it up then gave a generous spray of wd40 as figured it was excess friction which had caused it to come lose in the first place.

Thanks for the tip about cleaning the threads up, I've never used it before. I'd consider nyloc but wouldn't know the size or where to buy.

It's not friction well it is to a certain degree because you have moving parts that will unwind the nut but it's also vibration. Once the nut loosens a fraction the vibrations will rattle it loose that's why a nyloc nut or thread lock will prevent that from happening.

To my thinking, once it's come loose, it's likely that the splines have been damaged/loosened. Encouraging the thing to loosen again. Nyloc nut or two slim nuts counter tightened into each other?

Nyloc nut it is then, not enough room to get 2 on I think. As sepulchrave states it was a 13mm socket so I'll grab a bag of m8s over the weekend and hopefully that will cure it, as I need the car for daily trips to York next week.

there is m8 the arm is ali and the splines wear I had the same problem cost me £40 odd quid for a complete new arm

Hi Steve, have you got the part number and where you bought it from?, put a new nut on but pretty sure the arm needs renewing as still a lot of movement on it.

Rang bickertons but they couldn't find what I was after and the part no. Stamped on it got no results.

Another thing, any guides on how to replace this part?, it didn't look like it wanted to come off with just that but off.

Cheers Steve.

Just to confirm its the nut in the pic I've circled, was this the one for you Steve?

yes that's the 1 if the nut comes to loose it wears the teeth in the arm then u'll require a new arm as I found out

Hi Steve, have you got the part number and where you bought it from?, put a new nut on but pretty sure the arm needs renewing as still a lot of movement on it.

Rang bickertons but they couldn't find what I was after and the part no. Stamped on it got no results.

Another thing, any guides on how to replace this part?, it didn't look like it wanted to come off with just that but off.

ring tps or skoda looks more expensive than it is think it was around £38 there shouldn't be any movement in it as for removing it a good tug and it will come off any problems pm me and i'll dig out invoice there is a part number on the bottom of it

ring tps or skoda looks more expensive than it is think it was around £38 there shouldn't be any movement in it as for removing it a good tug and it will come off any problems pm me and i'll dig out invoice there is a part number on the bottom of it

If you can grab the invoice that would be great thanks,I got a pic of the part no. and spent ages on phone to skoda with no luck. Can't find it on partsbase either

bought from tps phone number 02920 484488 invoice number 201068182 part number s6r0711046b cost £34.13 inc vat

Right,just wondered, would it be worth putting any thread lock on the splines when I fit this? It's made to counter vibration so would it help reduce wear?

Thanks again Steve,picked this up today,didn't realise you even get the cable end included too! They are 15quid anyway.

Will update next week as going on hols later.will try an get a vid of the movement before and after fitting for educational purposes.