No idea.

No probs, was just a thought, appreciate your advice and will go with what you suggest.

Also do you recommend any thing else for the job? Brake cleaner? Ceratec copper free grease?

Cheers

Edited 7 June, 201511 yr by SkodaFabiaOwner

I have a feeling that the carrier for the FSIII brakes is integrated into the hub, so you can't fit any bigger discs etc. without replacing the hubs.

No probs, was just a thought, appreciate your advice and will go with what you suggest.

Also do you recommend any thing else for the job? Brake cleaner? Ceratec copper free grease?

Cheers

 

Brake cleaner is essential to clean the new discs, use some antiseize to prevent the disc rusting onto the hub.

Thanks all, parts all ordered, 72 odd quid lighter, can't wait for the parts to arrive and get the job done now

 

Cheers

Hopefully last question, does this seem reasonably priced and good quality to get the brake fluid changed:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Bleeder-Tester-Set-Bleed-Kit-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Motorbike-Bleeding-/380763094231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58a73fbcd7

 

Was considering using the vacuum above or the 2 person method mentioned in Haynes, but I heard this could cause damage so thought this may be a better way to go and easier for 1 man DIY... Any opinions please?

 

Cheers

That looks like an ideal brake-bleeding tool.  My only concern would be that it seems almost too cheap...

 

I've got the pressure-bleeding tool, the Easi-bleed or whatever it's called, but I don't like it much. There seems to be an ever-present risk of squirting brake fluid all over the place if you go wrong, and the last time I used it, I noticed one of the main, crucial seals, at the lid of the pressure bottle, had swollen and was struggling to seal properly.  I'm really disappointed that a bit of kit like that would have seals that weren't compatible with the fluid they're intended to be used with.

 

Have recently been contemplating using my Pela oil extractor, which would be a neat dual-purposing of it. 

Thanks, will give it a whirl and report back then, fingers crossed eh?

 

I had a look at the Ezi-bleed, isn't that the one that uses pressure from a spare tyre? Looks alright, shame you had problems with it. There seem to be loads of different types around which is really confusing and varying in price from a £2.99 syringe jobby to hundreds for pressurised units, it's a shame they don't just do 1 really good cheap DIY tool that works and is reliable and 1 really good commercial grade tool, if only the world were that easy! haha

 

Cheers

Edited 8 June, 201511 yr by SkodaFabiaOwner

I've got the pressure-bleeding tool, the Easi-bleed or whatever it's called, but I don't like it much. There seems to be an ever-present risk of squirting brake fluid all over the place if you go wrong, and the last time I used it, I noticed one of the main, crucial seals, at the lid of the pressure bottle, had swollen and was struggling to seal properly.  I'm really disappointed that a bit of kit like that would have seals that weren't compatible with the fluid they're intended to be used with.

 

 

I replaced the pressure bottle seal on mine with an O-ring of the appropriate size. It's been working fine like that for years now.

  Good tip, thanks.

 

Still keen to try the Pela though.  A bit of googling when I thought of it a few weeks back suggests others have tried it; and I can't see any obvious 'gotchas'. (Edit: except for maybe having to have an assistant to keep the level in the reservoir reasonably high.)

Thanks, a couple more questions if I may?

 

When bleeding on youtube some people state that you should start with the furthest away from the master cylinder and others say you should start from the closest as it's more efficient, both opinions come from allegedly qualified and experienced mechanics. Does the sequence matter much? Or is it mostly just a case of bleeding the fluid with clean fluid and keeping the air out of the lines?

 

Also does anyone happen to have a picture of the location of the bleed nipple for the clutch please?

 

And does it matter which order I do the fluid/discs/pads? Should I do fluid change, then discs and pads? Or discs and pads then fluid? I am thinking I should do discs and pads first in case the worn discs and pads has an impact on the final level of the master cylinder. Does this sound sensible?

 

Cheers

I already posted the order for you in post 10. That's the order stated by Skoda.

 

The clutch bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder which is mounted on the gearbox. It looks something like this...

 

 

Doesn't really matter which way around you do the discs/pads/bleeding.

It makes sense to open the bleed nipple when/as you push the caliper piston back ready for the new pads, just make sure you can close it again before you stop pushing (kinda needs three hands, but doable with two and a bit of planning/dexterity).

You should still bleed each caliper after you've fitted all the new stuff, but if you do the above, the worst/dirtiest/most-abused fluid in the whole system comes straight out, rather than being pushed back up towards the ABS manifold as you push back the pistons. (And when the pads are very low, there's quite a lot of fluid behind the pistons).

Couple more questions please, did a service today, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, wipers etc.

Looked at doing brake fluid but couldn't find the clutch bleed nipple after ages of looking around. Is it hidden sonewhere obscure? Or behind some under shield?

Also was going to do brake discs, found out it needed 7mm Allen key for the calipers, for some reason I don't think any of my toolkits had this, is it just a standard 7mm Allen key or a Skoda tool? I couldn't get anything to fit after removing the rubber protectors. Also how do you provide the correct torque on an Allen key when tightening back up?

Cheers

Clutch bleed nipple is below the rear inner corner of the battery box.

 

 

For the 7mm socket-heads, you want something that you can connect up to a torque wrench.  A hexagon bit built into a square-drive adaptor is one option, one like this is another, where you can just fit that into a 10mm socket, and the socket into your torque wrench.

 

Actual L-shaped Allen keys are of limited use on cars; they tend to be too bendy and twisty.

Thanks Wino, by the look of that pic it looks like it's in the rear of the engine bay. I spent ages under the car looking for it like a right numpty... Haha

Thanks for the links, will order one up, brakes and fluid change will have to be postponed til next weekend now...

Cheers

Yep, if you lean over the nearside wing, just in front of the battery box, and look under it, you should spot it. Torch may help.

 

I took that photo from there, but it's rotated round now to what you see if you look right over the battery box from in front of the car.  You can't miss it now you know roughly where to look.

Would The Audi TT - 312mm rotors and calipers fit under 15 inches wheels ? I know they came with wheels starting from 16 inches, but it would be a nice upgrade that I'm looking to make (and keep my current alloys as well).

Comprehensive-looking table of mk1 Fabia OE brake specs found accidentally whilst looking for something completely different here.

 

Seems that the 1.2-engined cars and some of the 8-valve 1.4 cars might have either FSII/239mm or FSIII/256mm. Not sure on what basis the type/size was selected from one build to the next. No clues that I can spot in that table.