Stem seals gone, parts needed

[hutchysrs50]

IMO, it's fine to leave get worse. I've had a few bmw's and vauxhalls that have had them totally knackered really.

Was putting half a literally of oil in the bmw every other week.

[Titanium_Man]

I haven't taken any accurate measurements, but I reckon my oil has done down the dip-stick by a 1/4 since 12th June when it was serviced and covered about 1k miles in that time.

In the 5 years I've owned the car I've never lost a drop of oil between services until i had the turbo upgraded in April 2014 and seems to be getting worse.

[SKYHAWK]

_{I got 1 injector available aswell if needed got most parts pm me if u need anything}

[poiuytre111]

Clearly changing valve stem oil seals would be an easier job if you didn't have to take the head off. I have done this many years ago on a ford cvh engine - the trick was to arrange for the piston for the cylinder you are working on to be at tdc so your valves cant disappear into the bore when you remove valve springs. You also need to jury rig a way to compress valves etc. I guess an ohc engine still leaves a fair bit of hassle just to get to the valve heads.

 

I would be interested to know if this approach is even possible on our skoda engines ?

[hutchysrs50]

I've thought about it, I'm sure it's easily possible with the right tool.

Something to go in to where the glow plug sits maybe or something in place of the injector.

But... In the big picture, the engine mount, camshaft, timing belt etc all needs to be removed anyway so you might as well pull the exhaust off and egr pipe off and take the full thing off.

[sepulchrave]

Back in the day we used to feed nylon cord into the cylinder through the spark plug hole then compress the wad of cord up against the valve heads by turning the crank, this enabled you to remove the collets, retainer and valve spring to replace the stem seal, it only really worked on heads with rockers where the valve spring was easily accessible, the problem with the PD is that the valve spring is down in a lifter well and the stem seal will be right at the bottom of that well.

[coskev]

As above, might aswell whip head off for the hassle.

Can then also decoke all ports/backs of valves etc.

Having just done the above to the replacement head for mine it was unreal how much crap was in the inlet ports and backs/stems of inlet valves, if you picture the crap thats in the inlet manifold from egr and breather its the same build up in the head and on valves.

[hutchysrs50]

I put pictures up of the valves on my old project thread about a year or so ago showing it.

[Dave89]

Dragging up an old thread but this was really useful read ^^

 

Planning on having my timing belt & water pump changed soon.  Thinking of having the camshaft and lifters changed too (170K and some shaking on idle at random but no fault codes).  However, also thinking about the valve seals as on a cold morning, get blue smoke on startup.

 

However, my question is, do I need a new head gasket? Planning on supplying my mechanic:

-Quality camshaft kit with lifters and new head bolts

-Gates timing belt kit and water pump

-http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.9_2005/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/car-gasket-seals/?362441350&1&6450ac892ddc2f9ded9eca2eef6cb4b3e85880b3&000174 This for the stem seals as hutchysrs50 suggests.

-Oil & filter

 

Does the head gasket itself always need replacing or is the rocker gasket fine?  There seems to be a range of different head gaskets specd on ECP for the ASZ engine which is rather confusing.  I don't want to replace things unnecessarily but since the job isn't going to be cheap, I don't want to skimp on something I should be replacing.

 

Many thanks for anyone who can advise. 

[coskev]

Yeah the head gasket is one use only.

On the front of the gasket there is a piece sticking out with either 1,2 or 3 round holes punched through it,you need to get a gasket with the same number of holes in it

[coskev]

Inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets are needed too.

probably better off buying a head gasket set,that will include everything you need

[Dave89]

Yeah the head gasket is one use only.

On the front of the gasket there is a piece sticking out with either 1,2 or 3 round holes punched through it,you need to get a gasket with the same number of holes in it

 

Brill thanks.  Never knew that!

 

I'll take a look at some kits for an idea on price.

[Torbo]

oil seals for valve tubes is important.

​I changed also one valve on mine 1,2 engine and grinded the valves.

messure dthe distance between the valve head and the top plan before you do anything. 

I grinded th head on a thick glass plate/head glass with sand, whitespirit and oil, and cleaned it well. 

See manual. - the valves most not come to long tut against the lifters.

oilseal for the crankshaft. (they are bad). And to the camshafts if you have belt.

Change chain and guides if you have chain belt.

 

 

generator belt, may be tensioners

and so on...

Edited 3 March, 2016 by Torbo