Hi guys, had a problem with my 2006 vrs taking about 5 seconds to start and gave me the n/a fault code.

A couple of days ago it done the same but gave me the P0672 code aswell as the glowplug flashing light.

Car still started so i reset codes.

The next day usual 4-5 seconds to start but gave me a different code this time P0727 looked it up, something about a speed sensor?

Finally i reset again and tried this morning and ony got the usual n/a code. Does this sound like the battery is on its way out?

Also my pass side window gave a massive bang as i went to put it down today and window has dropped down all the way.

Thish a hard job to fix?

Thanks for taking time to read over and help me, Andy

First thing i would look to do it change the glow plugs, very simple a cheap to do and fingers crossed would fix your problem, if not then you have 4 new glow plugs

 

The window dropping is a fairly common fault and there are a few threads on here about repairing it, i will link one if i can find it

The window problem will be the plastic in the window regulator breaking.

 

It's very common, and there are repair kits that replace the plastic cogs and steel cable with new.

 

How easy is it depends on whether your car has rivets or bolts holding the carrier to the door.

 

Up to early 2004 cars have bolts, and makes the job much much easier. 

Otherwise you have to drill out the rivets and then replace when done.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/357924-passenger-window-stuck-open-please-help/?hl=%2Bwindow#entry4276545

Thanks for the quick reply bud, my car has 150k on the clock (use if for 100miles a day commute) still on standard battery & glow plugs as far as i know so ill stick in a set of plugs asap

Ive got the dreaded rivets but can drill out and replace fairly easily. Thanks again mate

i dont know you experience working on cars but mine is virtually none.

 

I quickly learnt that taping the deep socket to the ratchet saves the socket getting stuck in the glow plug holes

Small update, tested my battery today and got 12v with engine off and 14v with engine on. So battery looks fine. Ill replace glow plugs tomorrow hopefully and update again

12.0V? That's a battery with very little charge in it.  Should be nearer 12.4 - 12.6 territory if it's in a good state.

 

http://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/battery-basics/how-a-battery-works/

 

Does your battery light come on with the ignition?

My battery light stays on (all other lights go out once its done its check) then when I start it goes off................don't tell me thats bad!

12.0V? That's a battery with very little charge in it.  Should be nearer 12.4 - 12.6 territory if it's in a good state.

 

http://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/battery-basics/how-a-battery-works/

 

Does your battery light come on with the ignition?

Nope, that's what it should do.

12.0V? That's a battery with very little charge in it.  Should be nearer 12.4 - 12.6 territory if it's in a good state.

 

http://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/battery-basics/how-a-battery-works/

 

Does your battery light come on with the ignition?

thanks for the reply bud, 12v was just me rounding it down lol. The exact reading was 12.46v so battery looks ok then?

Yep.

Yep.

nice just ordered glow plugs which should arrive on friday. Also fitted the new front door carrier.. Well when i said fitted i mean sat in place as i don't have big enough rivets!!!

Right, fitted new glowplugs. Still taking a few seconds to start compared to instantly starting. Took it out a quick drive and it drove fine. What else could cause slow starting and limp mode when driving? No codes come up. Cheers