Hi

 

Ive got 2 faults within the engine module on VCDS see log file below.

 

Skoda Octavia VRS 2003

 

Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-032-AJQ.lbl
   Part No: 06A 906 032 HN
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT         0002  
   Coding: 11500
   Shop #: WSC 31480  
   VCID: 71E99A863BE60CA9911-5140
   TMBER41U138681201     SKZ7Z0B1643099

2 Faults Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
            P1340 - 35-10 - Incor. Correlation - Intermittent
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
            P0011 - 35-00 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
Readiness: 0000 0000
 

 

I changed the cambelt roughly 500 miles ago, the timing marks were spot on we turned the engine over by hand for 2 full rotations. rechecked the timing marks after and everything looked set to go. The engine idles well and drives smoothly. Is the bank 1 fault going to be an issue ? ive cleared the codes before but they return after a drive.

 

any help or suggestions is great

 

thanks

 

Why did you have to change the cam?, was it damaged by lubrication failure?, as that set of codes would tend to suggest lack of oil pressure at the chain adjuster. when was the oil pickup pipe last changed?

I've not long bought the car. Looking through the skoda service history it was due a cambelt. No idea with the pick

up pipe I doubt it's been done.

Sorry, read your first post too quick as cam and not cambelt. There is a chain at the back of the engine to control the inlet cam which you can see in this link - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/camshafts/removing_and_installing_camshafts_and_camshaft_adjuster/

 

There is a possibility that the chain may have been mistimed by a previous repair somewhere, so I would recheck the chain timing if it was me, as you have already ruled out the front belt timing for errors. Having said that one of those codes could also be related to poor oil pressure to the adjuster, which may be why it may have skipped a tooth in the first place. Check the simple stuff first and progressively rule stuff out..

 

How many miles has the car done?, was it the first or second belt change in its life?.

Thanks for the reply Kent. To be honest I knew nothing about The chain at the back Of the engine. I think I'll replace the oil pick up feed just for piece of mind. Should the chain be replaced along with the cambelt or do people generally not change it ?

Thanks

There is a service life on the chain from VAG which I am not sure of but I think is about 150000 miles, but to be honest, most people only change it if they get an issue with stretch.

 

The chain is tensioned by a tensioner in the rear of the head, which needs a tool to hold it down when moving or changing the chain to avoid damaging the slipper pad, but if you google VAG 1.8t camchain tensioner tool, you should see loads of them by different firms, so just order from the one local to you. These links are purely to give you an idea what you are looking for http://www.europaparts.com/cam-chain-tensioner-tool-3366.html  

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Petrol-Engine-Timing-Tensioner-Valve-Timing-Tool-Kit-VAG-1-8-T-Belt-/120781938521?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c1f2a1f59

 

If you check that manual link I put above, you will see that there should be a specific number of links between the 2 rear timing marks when the chain is correctly aligned and synced to the front timing marks for the belt.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

Thanks again phil. Sounds fairly complicated not sure if I fancy attempting it to be honest. Is it possible to disturb the chains timing alignment from doing the cambelt Phil. Just trying to work out if it's something I've done wrong ?

I'd say assuming the tensioner was working correctly, there is almost no possible way you could have altered the chain alignment by changing the belt. That does not mean that it was not out before, and that realigning the belt marks correctly has now highlighted the problem.

The belt is on a tooth out.  I've seen  two very experienced people have this exact same problem after changing the belt and both times it has been a tooth out.

Ok first I'll go back and check the timing belt And see if the timing marks are correct. I'll report back.

Cheers guys

Right I've re checked the timing and it is 100% bang on. I had a look at the oil pick up feed and it was indeed full of ****e, I replaced it with a shiny new one and the bank 1 fault code no longer flags up.

I'm still getting the cam sensor / engine speed sensor fault. Looking at the cam sensor it looks new and im pretty sure it's not a genuine replacement

Thanks for the help

As it only involves the cost of a cambox gasket to check the chain timing, I would be inclined to look at either doing this  myself or getting a knowledgeable friend to help. If you find it is out, the decision is yours to make as to who does it or even if you do it.

 

The thing to bear in mind, is that the variable timing only works when the engine is cold, so as winter nears, this fault will be more prevalent.

 

The fact that it has had a new sensor may mean it has not been installed correctly and is not fully engaged. From memory, I think you can check this with the cambox off, but not sure, it was about 4 years ago that I had the cams out of an AUQ, so the memory is a little sketchy.

Hi Phil

Yes I agree the next step is to remove the rocker cover and check the chain timing. I'm going to test the cam sensor with a multi meter to check it is working correctly. I can't seem to find information from the cam sensor in measuring blocks in vcds.

Lack of any signal at all could well be the cause of the code, good luck with your meter exploits, hopefully its not been fitted correctly and won't cost you money.

I'm hoping that the chain has not worn / stretched. I'm

Taking the car to badger 5 Tuesday to be mapped. Was hoping to have it all sorted. I'll report back once I've looked into it a bit more.

Cheers

The chain looks to be half a tooth out. Now is this because the chain may have stretched or it's simply been timed up incorrectly ?

Are you absolutely 110% certain that your belt timing is correct?, as the only other explanation is chain stretch. 1 tooth on the belt is about 1/2 link on the chain. Do you have 16 chain rollers between the 2 cam timing marks on the chain measured across the top run?.

 

Have you checked your belt timing via the manual link I posted above, or have you used a different method?.

 

There is also a possibility the camshaft adjuster may be interfering with the correct cam alignment as you are getting an error code relating to this. Counting the links is a good start point to start knocking off the causes for this.

Hi Phil

I've checked the belt timing by lining the Engine up to tdc cyl no 1. The exhaust pulley lines up perfect with the cam cover and the crank pulley is bang in line with the notch on the lower belt cover.

Thanks

Is there any lift in the chain if you try to lift it off the tensioner slipper or is it all in tension?, If it is in tension, and from what you say of the belt timing, then it looks as if the chain has stretched.

 

If you can lift the chain off the tensioner by more than a mm or two, then there is a possibility that the tensioner is partially seized. Does the tensioner look original, or does it look newer than the head?.

There is no slack in the chain at all. To be honest going by the golden brown colour it's all original parts. The car is on 136000 miles. I took some photos of the chain rollers to look at.

The crank and cam pulley are perfect. The exhaust cams lines up bang in the middle at the chain end. It's just the intake camshaft that doesn't quite line up on the chain end.

It looks like you have 16 rollers between the timing marks on the cams, although it is difficult to be certain with the camera angle, but assuming that to be so, your options would be few now.

 

1:- you could remove the tensioner (you will need the tool I posted earlier) and make sure it is not siezed in the upper part of its travel - this would not pull the marks back into line if it was as the tensioner controls the valve timing.

 

2:- the chain has stretched and you really need to renew it.

 

If anybody else out there thinks I've missed anything, please feel free to jump in, but I can't think of too many more things that can cause this.