2.0 140 Tdi not always starting first go

[HorneyMX5]

I'm having a problem with my Yeti that seems to be getting progressively worse.

 

When you start it it turns over, seems to catch and then dies. This can be the first turn only or up to 4 goes until it starts. Often it doesn't do it at all.

 

There seems to be no correlation to whether it's hot or cold. On careful listening I can't hear any difference to the times it doesn't start to the times when it does. Seemingly turning over at the same speed etc. 

 

Anyone else suffered this? I wondered if it was fuel pressure related with a lift pump issue or similar. The car has a one year Skoda used warranty but it's intermittent and was hoping someone might have some suggestions I could pass on when I book it in to be looked at.

 

Cheers.

[Urrell]

Battery going off?

 

Have you checked the resting voltage when it's not been run for a few hours?

Edited 5 August, 2015 by Urrell

[HorneyMX5]

Had a brand new one fitted when I bought it a couple of months back so that's unlikely but not impossible.

[Recarouk]

any record of the glow plugs ever being changed out bud?

[HorneyMX5]

Not that I can see. I don't think they're the issue though as it does it when warm or cold. 

[Ryeman]

I assume once running there is no indication of anything wrong and thus fuel supply is not an issue or the HPFP etc.

When it's at normal temperature will it restart immediately after switching off or only with difficulty?

[HorneyMX5]

Yup, no running problems at all once started.

 

If you turn it off it's pot luck as to whether it'll start first time or not even if it's a quick off then on again.

[Ryeman]

Possibly electrical eg a sticky relay which may not show up as a fault......no warning light?

[HorneyMX5]

Nope, nothing. Just goes to start as normal then dies when the starter stops. If it was a petrol car I would suspect no spark. It's weird on these though as you can't hold it on the starter, it only runs for a pre set time then disengages. I'll try videoing a few starts over the next few days and see if I can capture it. 

[Ryeman]

I'd start with the simplest - a new starter relay ......you can always keep it as a 'spare'.

Releasing the starter initiates a transition to 'running' status so I would start with thinking 'electrical' as in relay/sensors etc particularly if performance has not degraded.

[Ryeman]

Hopefully not an EGR failing issue .......an intermittent sticking 'flap' frinstance which would be more of an cost issue to resolve.

[Llanigraham]

Before you replacing anything I would get a garage to check there are no error codes coming up.

[Ryeman]

Before you replacing anything I would get a garage to check there are no error codes coming up.

I assumed he'd done that.........obviously the first step.

[HorneyMX5]

Tada! Did it today. This was from cold. I held it on the starter the same both times.

[HorneyMX5]

Before you replacing anything I would get a garage to check there are no error codes coming up.

 

The car is under a 1 year used warranty from Skoda so I have no intention of replacing anything myself. All I want is to see if anyone else had experienced it and what the problem was. Nothing comes up on a fault reader I've used but I am yet to take it to my local Skoda dealer to have them look at it. 

 

I want to have a list of things I can put to the dealer as I am well aware what they are like, most are just fitters and blindly follow the computer and list of instructions handed down from Skoda on high. I build and race MX5s as a hobby so I know how a proper mechanic should diagnose and resolve an issue and I'm not going to accept "Computer says no" so I want to be as armed with examples as possible. 

 

I'm also skint (see above comment about race cars) and I don't want to be paying Skoda for time and fault scans for them to come back and say they can't find anything wrong with it. I assume that unless they find something to fix and it gets approved as a warranty repair I have to foot all the bills.

[Llanigraham]

It might be worth finding someone with VCDS locally to do a scan for you.

Perhaps putting your location other than "United Kingdom" we might be able to point you at someone locally to you.

[FLAPPERJACK7]

Scan it first. Still think it's your battery though. You say it's quite new but how charged was it. How long was it knocking around. Even brand new cars at the dealer's at pre delivery inspections need charging up. Cranking speed is very important on modern vehicles.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[HorneyMX5]

The battery was fitted by the dealer when I bought it in May as the battery in it was shagged.

Maybe they just chucked another battery off the forecourt in it but they did say it was new.

I'm in Basingstoke. I'll update my profile.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[137699]

Quite possibly a failing DMF - not heard of it affecting any Yeti's however this is the usual symptom in other car brands.

[jtdesign]

Interesting that when it does start, at the second attempt, the idle speed is quite low. With a cold engine my TDI would normally idle at about 1000 until it had warmed. Suspect a faulty sensor input into the ECU which will show up with a VCDS or ODB scan.

 

John

[Ryeman]

Funny thing mine fired but failed to start for the first time....ok the second.

Had been in the garage undriven for a week or so .

[HorneyMX5]

Quite possibly a failing DMF - not heard of it affecting any Yeti's however this is the usual symptom in other car brands.

Oh blimey don't say that! Better book it in with Skoda and see what they say. [emoji24]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gobmax]

Hi Guys had similar problems, 2/3 days sitting idle, battery would be flat.

Dealer spent several hours & it cost me $$$$ to find out the problems,

were caused the aftermarket Towbar that I had fitted.

 

Bought a Innovan Caravan 1300KG loaded  and Qld Australia Main Roads wouldn't

Register Van with a Skoda Bar , (The one that looks like a solid "Donkey ****" ( please forgive me ladies)

as it was only approved to 1000kg.

 

Until I had a Bar with Ajustable and Demountable Hitch. After Market unit. which is so called more solid.

The problem was the Relay Wiring unit was faulty, and drawning Battery.

 

I had noticed that there is a unit under the Battery that had a constant Red Light.

Dealer found problem, the dismantling cost the $$$$.

 

Hope this helps. Am still to investigate, what would be a suitable replacement Unit.

[Llanigraham]

The official Skoda removable tow bar, as fitted by the factory, is rated at 2000kg, and not as stated above. 

And what ""unit under the Battery that had a constant Red Light"" is this? Nothing as such on my car.

[Gobmax]

Thanks "Llanigraham" and being subject to Queensland/Australia Rules, and these vary from State to State.

Qld Rules had not past SKoda Official Towbar at the time, when I wanted it, for my Van.

But my time in UK/Europe many years ago, Rules varied.

 

In front of the Battery there is what I interperate as the Turbo, Booster Unit,

Lower down, behind left hand Light assembly, has  a Unit with 2 red connections (it is bolted to Frame) and has a white light unit behind it.

This was Draining the Battery by exhibiting a Bright Red Light, indicating Drain on Battery.

 

My Auto Tech advised that original Unit, was connected to Battery and not the Ignition,

and as Cars become more Dependant on Computers. He will investigate with Skoda and Fix.

 

Skoda suggested I trade as it's 4 years and it's and out of Warranty, Have owned since 1982,

5 Diesel Vehicles and done of 2.5 Million KM's, would rather spend a little money, because my "Snowman" is Magic,

and Tows the "Innovan Caravan" with ease. + "Snowman" is not even Run In,or a long way from it.

 

 

Turn your Car on,  (But don't Strart ,Pop Bonnet and it ( the Red light) should be evident,

as Battery is discharging.

 

Hope this helps other Briskoda Members.

Edited 12 August, 2015 by Gobmax