There's a lot of you tube clips on removal. Need an M8 or M10 XZN/spline. Think its just the vrs requires m10?

What engine code is your Octavia?, I'll look on Elsawin if you could confirm please.

AZJ I believe.

 

Although I'd need a torque wrench, the M8 spline and good 2.5-3 ton jack also (probably cost the same amount of the labour cost) . Moved country recently and sold most of my tools :(

Got 3 ton stands, breaker bar and sockets for hub nut and other sizes though.

 

So the garage were either taking me for a ride or are just unaware of this model of skoda . Apart from that they have done good work in the past.

I might just instruct them to change the shafts and not touch the box.

 

I'm not sure if I'll find the time to change them on my own in the next week.

Well, looking at Elsawin, the info is the same as this, and I can see no reason to touch the gearbox oil when removing shafts, although there is mention of special operations for the auto box which give better access, non of which involve oil loss -  http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/removing_and_installing_a_drive_shaft/

 

Regardless of which option of shaft has been fitted to your car (tripod joint or inner cv type) they are both self contained units. - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_drive_shaft/repairing_drive_shaft_with_inner_tripod_joint_aar_2900_and_outer_cv_joint/

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_drive_shaft/repairing_drive_shaft_with_outer_and_inner_cv_joint_vl_3700/

 

Hope it helps.

Well, looking at Elsawin, the info is the same as this, and I can see no reason to touch the gearbox oil when removing shafts, although there is mention of special operations for the auto box which give better access, non of which involve oil loss -  http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/removing_and_installing_a_drive_shaft/

 

Regardless of which option of shaft has been fitted to your car (tripod joint or inner cv type) they are both self contained units. - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_drive_shaft/repairing_drive_shaft_with_inner_tripod_joint_aar_2900_and_outer_cv_joint/

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_drive_shaft/repairing_drive_shaft_with_outer_and_inner_cv_joint_vl_3700/

 

Hope it helps.

Thanks!

 

JandR CV joints appear to have very mixed reviews. Some awful and some been driven hard and worked fine.

Fingers crossed! Couldn't afford much right now.

 

If they don't last long I'll buy SKF ones next and fit them myself.

Edited 16 August, 201510 yr by Brit24

Thanks!

 

JandR CV joints appear to have very mixed reviews. Some awful and some been driven hard and worked fine.

Fingers crossed! Couldn't afford much right now.

 

If they don't last long I'll buy SKF ones next and fit them myself.

Could also consider used genuine ones for the shaft and service/replace joints if need be...

Read quite a few blogs that it's worth putting in new good quality grease on these cheaper CV's. Getting a bit anxious now that these are rubbish and may fail prematurely.

I'll ask the garage to slip off the CV joints and pack them well.

Yeah if you pack them full they could be ok. I think the balance of the shaft may be the thing. You won't know until you fit them though. What was actually wrong with your driveshafts? You could take the new joints off and put on your existing hollow balanced shafts...Could work out well as they are though, may be a bit of trial and error involved

Took one of the gaitors off today and not that much grease in there. Sufficient maybe but could be much more. I'll get them to repack them with more.

 

I'll try with the entire new shafts first and cross fingers. It's not a powerful VRS, just a sluggish automatic.

Yeah see how it goes, more grease certainly won't do any harm

Only the joint is packed with grease, the boot should be nearly empty to allow for grease pressurisation and movement. overpacking is normally what causes the boots to either pop off or split due to pressure.

 

But as you say, more grease will not do any harm in the joint.

Only the joint is packed with grease, the boot should be nearly empty to allow for grease pressurisation and movement. overpacking is normally what causes the boots to either pop off or split due to pressure.

 

But as you say, more grease will not do any harm in the joint.

oh I didn't know that.

So just the joint on the inner part (which comes with a temporary plate, other side of the rubber boot) is packed hard with grease? Part that joins onto the gearbox mounts?

 

Inside the rubber boot is just lightly greased.

 

Thinking of doing this job myself now . Maybe a couple of hours each side? Just concerned about the spline not coming out of the hub.

 

Just looking at buying the M8 spline (long possibly), 3 ton trolley jack and a torque wrench. (got the stands, sockets , extensions, breaker bar etc.

 

Have removed shafts and struts from my old alfa. That thing had allen bolts which sheared, Had to cut one off! They either rounded or just sheared.

You pack the joint pretty tight with the special CV grease, filling any available spaces on the joint itself, then slip the boot over and secure it. the gaiter is really there as a two fold thing -

1 - to keep out debris from the internal bits and bobs.

2 - to restrain and keep local any grease that is thrown out of the joint due to rotational forces - this is why you leave the boot empty, as centrifugal force takes care of part filling it for you.

 

Make sure the spline bolts are in good nick to reuse, as we tried to reuse a bolt that had obviously been out before on my sons LCR (threads obviously shiny and worn) and the thing came loose after a week. I should have done the job right first time - lesson learned on that one.

 

There are various methods on here for removing the shaft, but my go to is leave the big nut on enough to protect the threads on the end of the shaft and give it a good swift clout with a large hammer - do it right once - don't beat it to death with little taps, you will actually do more damage that way.

You pack the joint pretty tight with the special CV grease, filling any available spaces on the joint itself, then slip the boot over and secure it. the gaiter is really there as a two fold thing -

1 - to keep out debris from the internal bits and bobs.

2 - to restrain and keep local any grease that is thrown out of the joint due to rotational forces - this is why you leave the boot empty, as centrifugal force takes care of part filling it for you.

 

Make sure the spline bolts are in good nick to reuse, as we tried to reuse a bolt that had obviously been out before on my sons LCR (threads obviously shiny and worn) and the thing came loose after a week. I should have done the job right first time - lesson learned on that one.

 

There are various methods on here for removing the shaft, but my go to is leave the big nut on enough to protect the threads on the end of the shaft and give it a good swift clout with a large hammer - do it right once - don't beat it to death with little taps, you will actually do more damage that way.

Many thanks.

 

The removal of the outer shaft with spline would be the final part? (The clout the the hammer on the hub nut?) after removing the 6 spline bolts.

 

I'll watch some youtube videos now.

Yes, if you release the inner joint, (I normally tie wrap a sandwich bag round the joint to keep it clean just in case you have to refit it) the whole shaft has "somewhere to go" then, otherwise it will just try to compress and not do much.

 

Youtube is quite useful for stuff like this as it fills in the gaps for info, and as has been said many times - the devil is in the detail.

What are the torque settings for the spline bolts, hub nut and 3 x 13mm bolts on the lower wishbone joint?

 

Does this mean tghten another 90 degrees after torquing to 20Nm for the shaft bolts?

M8 x 18 = 20 Nm + 90°

 

Amazon Prime should be delivering my 3 ton trolley jack, torque wrench and spline tools tomorrow!

Edited 17 August, 201510 yr by Brit24

ABS and non ABS models??

I've seen teeth on some shafts other shafts. These have none but the seller said they fit both abs and non abs..!!

 

Can anyone confirm?

ABS and non ABS models??

I've seen teeth on some shafts other shafts. These have none but the seller said they fit both abs and non abs..!!

 

Can anyone confirm?

Is it the reluctor ring I need to remove from the old shaft and replace on to the new one?

 

update: Been searching high and low and can only see rear axle abs rings. Are they only on the rear or is the abs ring mounted onto the bearing hub?

Edited 17 August, 201510 yr by Brit24

ah now I see correct me if I'm wrong

abs ring is mounted on the bearing hub and not the shaft

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1004076007-MEYLE-Wheel-Hub-Skoda-OCTAVIA-/161501054346?hash=item259a36858a

The big nut and spline bolt torque figures are at the base of the page on the first link I posted in post #28. Just make sure you match the spline thread size and length to that chart as they do differ.

 

You are correct about the torque and the the angle tighten as they are stretch bolts

 

The lower arm torques are at the base of this page - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/removing_and_installing_the_track_control_arm/

 

You are correct on your last post for the manual models, as shown here - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/repairing_wheel_bearing_housing/ I cannot imagine any reason why the auto would be different to be honest. Do you have any links to the shafts to see if anything obvious jumps out?.

The big nut and spline bolt torque figures are at the base of the page on the first link I posted in post #28. Just make sure you match the spline thread size and length to that chart as they do differ.

 

You are correct about the torque and the the angle tighten as they are stretch bolts

 

The lower arm torques are at the base of this page - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/removing_and_installing_the_track_control_arm/

 

You are correct on your last post for the manual models, as shown here - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_wheel_suspension/repairing_wheel_bearing_housing/ I cannot imagine any reason why the auto would be different to be honest. Do you have any links to the shafts to see if anything obvious jumps out?.

Thanks!

 

The 6 m8 inner driveshaft bolts are reusable aren't they?

 

 

You are correct about the torque and the the angle tighten as they are stretch bolts

Mine is the standard splined shaft and 30mm nut. No bolt involved.

Edited 18 August, 201510 yr by Brit24

On the shaft, the nut is the stretchable thread and is one use only. Some of the bolts are reusable others are not, only when you get one out, measure it and compare to the chart will you know for sure, having said that , most are re-usable

New 12 point nuts with shoulder arrived from Europarts. Better than the ones supplied by J&R

 

Change of plan. Got a mechanic coming round Sunday to change them. 50 quid!! Friend of a friend.

Bargain - both for your wallet and your nerves.

Just noticed that the nearside nut and shaft are not original! Nut on the offside is 12 point shouldered and shaft is hollow.

nearside is hex with smaller shaft that appears solid. Well got 2 new 12 point nuts to go on.

looks like nearside was replaced at one time.

Edited 21 August, 201510 yr by Brit24

Mechanic took my car in this evening. Stayed with him in his small workshop.

Did both shafts in less than 2 hours.

 

Wobble gone! 

Near side shaft had been changed before. Offside was original.

 

He works for Audi during the week and has a side business where he does some of his own work on cars like ours in his own workshop.

Lives just across the road! Wish I had met him before I had my cam belts done. He can do them in less than an hour.