hi there i bought my first fabia vrs on sat love it!!! but driving home gave her some welly on dual carriageway lost acceleration mph crept down managed to get it into a parking slip road left it a few mins started her back to then drove home car feels rough now and no as fast as it was bought a elm327 that has found no codes on the torque app and this is the live reading i got whilst the car was running 8 bar of boost at 4.5000 revs can any say if this is right thanks everyone!

possibly a boost pipe has popped off.

 

Lot's of black smoke out the back?

i didn't see any smoke?? where abouts would it pop out mate the hose behind the drivers head light?

Ok just had quick look at hose from egr down to intercooler everything seems in place, I did do the test sat on drive with just a reving the accelerator not actual driving should I take it for a spin to see if there is I difference???

Edited 6 October, 201510 yr by Lee1979

Thats psi, 8 bar would be about 118 psi lol need to do a full throttle run as acording to that pic you were only quarter throttle which will be about right.

Your not anywhere near up2 temperature yet either too be booting it

I ment 8psi lol sorry bout that I'll take her out I the morning warm her up then take her down bypass see what I get then

That was just sat on drive though!

You wont produce much boost if its not under load, warm it up and take it a drive, its probably blew a seal on the intercooler pipework, i spent ages and a few quid trying to sort the leaks on mine, ended up throwing the full lot in the bin and fitting a front mount kit as vag pipes are the worse ive ever seen on a car.

What's max boost about 18-19psi this is a standard on I'm not going to **** around with it just yet want to save some cash then take have to 179bhp but with uprated hose coupling pd150 head bolts maybe pd160 turbo is it worth doing egr delete with out fmic??

Never bothered doing the egr delete not sure i can see any benefit, 18--19 psi should be about right, id budget for a clutch too after a remap as they either take it or crap themself no long after lol

A lot of ppl are say fmic in it but didn't want to go down that road yet you say seal what do you mean and where can I get news ones if they are I have noticed all the pipe work is loose there secure just loose would it be worth getting the meklar clips on them?

Yeah I've read about that will save for a Sachs clutch kit lol I think

There is rubber o rings in the pipe work not cheap from skoda, its usualy the lugs on the pipe that wares out, terrible design! A front mount is very worth while if you want it leak free, my standard intercooler also had 2 holes worn throw it as it was rubbing(worth checkng)

A front mount will probably cost around 400 and new standard pipea and seals from skoda about half that so worth spending the extra few hundred to remove that crap set up, especially if your planning on modding it

You can DIY silicone replace the pipes yourself getting everything from eBay. Very good guide on here for the top one and some people have done the bottom one too. Think I costed it around 180 to do both, it's about 80 to do the top one DIY.

Thanks lads will take her out in the morning and see what the boost is reading it might just be me cause pushed her to hard on sat but will check the pipes and such if it's dry tomoz like I said there is no smoke when reving so I think all the pipes are on might as well save and get a inter cooler kit from darkside then save for clutch then remap I think that's the best way to do it I see people have to cut the driver lug off and cut into the slam bar to fit the fmic how much of the slam bar needs cutting???

Edited 6 October, 201510 yr by Lee1979

Don't forget bigger brakes!

JRJG

A lot of ppl are say fmic in it but didn't want to go down that road yet you say seal what do you mean and where can I get news ones if they are I have noticed all the pipe work is loose there secure just loose would it be worth getting the meklar clips on them?

In terms of the boost pipes being loose, they will be slightly. One of the reasons being, the intercooler is fixed rigid to the vehicle chassis and the engine can move on the mounts. If the pipes were completely rigid and tight the joints would wear even quicker than they do already.

In terms of blowing seals on boost pipes, never heard of that. The seal is a rubber O-ring it's possible it could rip or degrade I suppose, but blowing, I doubt it.

Don't be to eager to throw money at it yet as you could have some quite simple fixes you could do.

You also mentioned an egr delete. Main reason I can see for doing this is if it fails. It's arguably more cost effective to delete it rather than replace and then you'll never have to worry about it again. What you would need to consider though is getting the engine management light turned off though as it will throw a fault.

From my experience, the main culprit boost pipe which is prone to popping off is the bottom intercooler 90 degree bend. I used self tapping screws on my intercooler pipes as can just about be seen on the picture below. The is a bullet proof, cheap and easy fix to a common problem.

sent from my Galaxy Note 4

NICE ONE ASH!!! I see what you mean so the pressure sent through the intercooler is what builds up and makes it pop like I said to the other lads I have not seen any smoke at all but that I suppose dosn't mean it hasn't popped off there I crawl under the bumper in the morning and see if they are off if not I think it's just me but we will see and at the week end I'm going to clean the egr for now then blank the egr when I have more funds body work comes first!

Don't forget bigger brakes!

JRJG

That will be the last thing I'm not going to take her over 179bhp if I can help it!

That will be the last thing I'm not going to take her over 179bhp if I can help it!

Bottom boost pipe as Ash said is the most common, I self tapped mine in situ, a bit of an awkward area to work with a drill and cordless but not impossible. A replacement pipe is around £130 from the dealer, cheapest I found it from a vag parts breaker was £105, so I decided to give the self tapping route a try.

As long as you know how to drive with that kind of power and relative lack of stopping power, I don't like seeing pictures of cars in hedges/ditches!

JRJG

I should have thought you would need bigger brakes if your car is going to be travelling faster and/or is heavier than standard - so as to avoid fade. 

 

You could argue that anyone mapping a VRS will be thrashing the engine which could lead to fade and that is why bigger brakes are a good idea.

 

I have owned chipped cars but I didn't feel my driving style was really any different than before I had the extra available hp and I didn't change the brakes.

The standard brakes are poop. Upgrade these first.