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Turbo compressor housing screws

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Hello all, I am after some advice please.

I have a P150 turbo sat on the shelf in the garage and I am trying to remove the compressor housing.

Two of the small screws appear to be pretty well seized and a ring spanner just slips round them.

What other acceptable options do I have to get these out without causing any damage to the turbo?

It's sods law they are right near the actuator and arguably in the tightest, trickiest position they could be in!

I was going to try and knock them round with a chisel but I'm worried I'll just completely nacker the turbo through the shock of the hammer.

Any ideas or experience welcome please!

Thanks in advance as usual.

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Heat them up or compressor housing

  • Author

What and get some mole grips on the screw head?

Potentially stupid question but what would be "enough" heat? Could this have any adverse effect on anything? Appreciate the turbo does get very hot in general anyway.

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I can't visualise that area but heating up will help if you can get heat gun in. And tap screws when heated.

Doesn't have to be that hot, just used a heat gun and try it. Or a pair of mole grips. Your not going to damage the turbo.

  • Author

Will have a look and let you know how I get on!

Thanks for the input.

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I use 1/4 drive single hex socket and mole grips on the socket :)

Get hold of some 'Metrinch' sockets.  I use them all the time.

 

They are designed to grip on the flats of the nut/bolt and not the points.  It more or less guarantees that the spocket will not slip.

 

SN

  • Author

Chaps there is no room to get a socket on the screw heads round the area of the compressor housing where the actuator is.

There's literally only enough clearance to get a ring spanner over.

I can see this being a right pain in the arse to do... lol

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I see, mole grips then :)

  • Author

Yeah I think so mate, there just such small bloody screw heads there isn't much to get on to. The turbo seemed such a bargain at £150 as well :-(

Some pictures on the way to promote more thought...

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  • Author

20151117_210637_zpsitg4fzd3.jpg

20151117_210618_zps4qrw6kcv.jpg

20151117_210359_zpsudx3kuuc.jpg

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Edited by AshVrs

Have you removed the actuator? It's only a couple of bolts and a clip on the lever.

I have the same issue myself. Spanner just spins. Not really tried anything else yet.

If get a vacuum tester while the turbo is off so you can make sure the actuator is set correctly and operates ok.

  • Author

I haven't mate no, and if I'm honest that didn't immediately occur to me (although I'm not sure how much more room it will give). I was trying to disturb as little as possible.

I can see me using a small dremel to notch the head of the screw and then tapping it round with a chisel to get it moving.

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Cut socket in half with grinder, then grab with moleys

  • Author

Cut socket in half with grinder, then grab with moleys

My poor socket :-( but yes your right this will certainly be worth a shot.

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Single hex spanner if your going through all this trouble...

I used mole grips on mine and it came off no issue then.

if trying moles   use only good quality (no chinese junk) and enough tension that you need more than one hand to lock on(unless you're a body builder or circus strongman)  bit of heat too (small flame)

no excuse for cheap mole grips, a full snap-on set of different sizes is only £40 :D

  • Author

After hutchysrs50's steer, I bought a laser brake spanner (8mm hex at one end) and problem solved in 10 seconds!

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  • Author

Yes mate that is the exact same spanner I got. I think halfords sell them also, although I did order mine off ebay.

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  • Author

Ring spanner just slipped round this but this laser spanner fits like a glove and worked a treat

20151121_135540_zpsazlthg3n.jpg

20151121_135528_zps0zrpahr5.jpg

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It's because the force is distributed equally and no movement, ring spanners are ok for anything on just tight and if you don't want to round the edges.

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