My new StreetGuardian dashcam shows marginal 5V supply from Mac USB port but is ok on Apples mains-USB charging adaptor.

USB spec is approx=0.5A.

 

StreetGuardian don't recommend USB power < 1A but this seems marginal as the red indicator on it's display shows 'low' on the mac (but it still works) and fully-red on the Apple charging adaptor.

 

Being faced with permanent voltage on the cig-lighter I first chased switched-ones, (not good) but steered-off hard-wiring.

 

So I wondered:

 

1.0 What is Fabia 3 USB current-rating? (Not in specs?)

 

2.0 Presumably (DC) is switched-off with ignition off (will check)

 

If the above proves positive the USB Port can be used to power the dashcam in lieu of the cig-lighter (always powered) with a USB-mini-USB cable. 

 

This would save a lot of fusebox frigging.

 

Another way would be to use a solar panel-USB-battery on the dash to power the dashcam, it's charging-port connected to the Fabia USB port. This is problematic as most suppliers do not spec the panels and the internal Li-Fe cell would be heated >80 degs C in Oz. (I chose StreetGuardian as it has a capacitor not a battery. (Specced to ~ 70 degs C?)

 

Anyone tried these ideas?

 

 

A piggy back fuse is your best bet.

 

USB ports in cars are often designed to read flash drives, but not to power a dashcam.

 

Fitting a piggy back fuse is not a difficult job, and can be done in under 30 minutes.

A piggy back fuse is your best bet.

 

USB ports in cars are often designed to read flash drives, but not to power a dashcam.

 

Fitting a piggy back fuse is not a difficult job, and can be done in under 30 minutes.

 

Thanks Sam, just tried it. The USB Port stays on for  @ 20 secs after ign off and iPhone is charging when plugged-in for this 20 secs. Guess current < 0.5A-- USB spec?

 

When StreetGuardian connected current is too low as it shows 'low-supply.'

 

Looking for USB current booster and it will work!

 

Ign off, 20 secs later, dashcam off.

 

Edit: http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Power_&_Chargers/Batteries_&_Chargers/52451-2XQCW?gclid=Cj0KEQiAkIWzBRDK1ayo-Yjt38wBEiQAi7NnP9tOwJKcVYeaAF-j7y_bDrr-ktE46JQ9NYH-pmDoFvcaAkZF8P8HAQ

 

will do it, 2A & $AUS9

Edited 4 December, 201510 yr by anotherdownunder

Don't waste your money on that thing... you can't defy simple physics!

 

The max the port will output will be the 500ma and a pug-in deivce can't change that. It could do it by lowering the voltage perhaps but then the losses of the internal circuit would surely sap more juice than it could "boost".

 

Your best bet really with a piggy back fuse and run the wire round the windscreen. It requires no hard-install, tapping into wires, screwing etc. Can be completely removed at any time you want.

 

You then know it's getting a reliable power supply.

 

Phil

Don't waste your money on that thing... you can't defy simple physics!

 

The max the port will output will be the 500ma and a pug-in deivce can't change that. It could do it by lowering the voltage perhaps but then the losses of the internal circuit would surely sap more juice than it could "boost".

 

Your best bet really with a piggy back fuse and run the wire round the windscreen. It requires no hard-install, tapping into wires, screwing etc. Can be completely removed at any time you want.

 

You then know it's getting a reliable power supply.

 

Phil

I have designed buck/boost switchers and they are quite efficient, reliable and with overvoltage crowbar quite safe. Depending on current draw efficiency  >=90%. I only want @ 600 mA so this thing will not dissipate excessively.

 

Yes, I can hardwire but this seems easier than losing Warranty if wiring is seen as an alteration, removal necessary on first service?

 

Thanks for advice, will post result when all fitted.

Hard wiring with a fuse tap is not modifying any of the factory wiring. It's simply unplugging a fuse, put the tap in the fuse socket, and put the fuse back in the top of the tap.

 

The additional 12v cable then comes out of the fuse tap. That can then be wired into one of the below for 2x 3amp USB sockets.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/gib-Inverter-DC-12V-to-5V-3A-Dual-USB-Auto-Power-Regulator-step-down-/171804649171?hash=item28005ae6d3:g:1LUAAOSwv0tVUb-h

 

 

Have a look at the below thread. It's very easy.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/265343-dash-cam-12v-multi-adaptor-hidden-install-driver-storage-compartment

Edited 4 December, 201510 yr by softscoop