Felicia 1.3 MPI - Oil in coolant tank / white gue in Oil cap

[criiser]

And now - the patient is Wide open. And I'm having a beer - Added TON of pictures with diffrent light AND cameras. Both front and back side of the HG. On the back side two large rust parts is what I notice. But it did not look THAT bad...

 

/C

[criiser]

Also now fully dismantled the Head and cleaned the core plugs. they look REAL solid, non corroded and fine to me. Added pics of them too..

 

Question for me now is: What is the max clearance of the head - so I know if I need to get it machined down or now. And the same for the engine block.. (Goes back to the serviceManauls)

 

/C

 

Edit found in previous threads: 0.04 mm - that is sick little.. MAchine shop we go

Edited 23 January, 2016 by criiser

[RicardoM]

Mmmm... Beer :beer: :beer: :beer:

So yeah, not too much corrosion for that age, but much for such low mileage in cold weather. After cleaning the head thoroughly, we'll know more. Remember, we're not looking for big cracks, but rather something fine in those areas I circled.

http://imgur.com/a/Yu7P6

[RicardoM]

According to VIN Google search, the car has 11,941 miles onboard. And you confirmed it. Hence the confusion.

Edited 23 January, 2016 by RicardoM

[criiser]

So - I should clean the head and block properly and more MACRO photos.. Roger.

 

But the gasket too? or just macro pictures?

 

11941 miles turns into 119410 Km - right?  divided by 15 years = 7961 aprox Km/year - That is some serious driving imho. If my calculations is correct...

 

/C

Edited 24 January, 2016 by criiser

[Breezy_Pete]

No, it's only a Scandinavian mile that's 10km. Imperial mile is 1.6km.

[felicia16v]

Pics look just as I suspected the gasket has failed and corroded the head too. I bet when you clean it up there are some deep holes corroded away under the crusty bits.

It looks (although I'm only on my phone) like the gasket has swelled around the oil pressure hole from the water jacket which is a bit unusual but possibly due to higher antifreeze concentration due to colder climate??

Back when vw first had this issue some cars needed replacement heads by 1000 miles. Skoda sent us bare heads which we had to swap valves and studs etc.

[RicardoM]

No, it's only a Scandinavian mile that's 10km. Imperial mile is 1.6km.

Correct. On this forum 1 mile of HM is 1.6 km. And serious driving starts from 20.000 km/year. I was baffled by a HGF at less than 20.000 km. But now everything is clear.

 

C,

Clean very well the head and the block. Clean carefully the old HG to preserve any failure trace. Look closely at head, block, and HG on suspect area I circled.

 

Pics look just as I suspected the gasket has failed and corroded the head too.

Funny, I remember otherwise. You insisted hard on core plugs pushed out or badly corroded that you could puncture them...

[felicia16v]

You are correct but once he said the core plugs are ok then there was only ever one other option.

How silly he would have looked to remove the head when he could just have replaced a core plug in situ..not very often these engines put oil in the coolant too unlike lots of other engines due to HGF.

Seen it happen where folks do a headgasket change and it still puts oil in the coolant because the core plugs are knackered a few times now.

But what do I know..

Edited 24 January, 2016 by felicia16v

[criiser]

Pics look just as I suspected the gasket has failed and corroded the head too. I bet when you clean it up there are some deep holes corroded away under the crusty bits.

It looks (although I'm only on my phone) like the gasket has swelled around the oil pressure hole from the water jacket which is a bit unusual but possibly due to higher antifreeze concentration due to colder climate??

Back when vw first had this issue some cars needed replacement heads by 1000 miles. Skoda sent us bare heads which we had to swap valves and studs etc.

 

Yeah I has swelled on several places indeed. Cleaning the head I was thinking of skipping since I might as well send it to be leveled and THEN it will be SUPER clean But I will bring out the acetone and the brass brush I have.. TO go at it Maybe even use 5-56 (wd40). 

 

Ricardo, you looked up the milage on an Swedish Site - BTW great investigation skills - EXIF info from the pictures/or Google pic leaking

 

Anyways. Going down to clean it now - and snap some more pictures

 

/©

[criiser]

So - removed rust from the part indicated on the gasket and identified an track of rust getting darn close to the OIL canal. Also tried to show the other rusted parts of the gasket. THE head and the block are SUPER smooth. Running my fingers slowly over and over the areas is for me completely crack/gap free. I found one are on the BLOCK that looked like traces of OIL going into the area around the cylinders.

 

So - adding HOT/COLD (REALLY COLD) to the rust in the gasket MIGHT open an tiny tiny canal from oil into coolant at times.... theory...

 

Anyways - shutting the operation down for this weekend - need to the that head to the shop to make it SUPER level/cleaned (and pack..). Plan is Thursday when I'm back from work.

 

-Eh- and -  I REALLY need to say an HUGE thanks to all of you that are participating in diagnosing and looking/helping/cheering etc etc.! MUCH appreciated!!!

 

Kind regards,

Christian

[RicardoM]

You're welcome, C. You seem a super-friendly guy, you share your findings, and you have a decent garage and tools, so I enjoy helping you. Sorry if I peeked on you using our Google friend but I was looking for a VIN decoder to see how a carburetor Felicia is allowed in Sweden. I ended up in your garage. Thanks, Google

 

I have looked at your last photos. I am satisfied with the details revealed around suspect area. That is enough evidence for the fault. Furthermore, looking at the rest of HG corrosion, it is very fortunate the head was removed in such early stage of failure. It would have been a matter of (short) time - probably next summer - and a massive HGF would have happened. You avoided that nasty mess given by the 'mayonnaise" in the lubrication system and other possible complications on moving parts.

 

The block looks OK, but nevertheless check it for flatness and linings protrusion.

 

If the machining shop can do a head pressure test too (cracks), go for it. It should be a cheap extra job. Now it would be a good time to replace the valve stem seals and check valve seats / valves for pitting.

[criiser]

"linings protrusion." - Eh, no idea what that is nor did google help me on this one :( What is that, linings i get, the wet "socket" around the cylinders. But PROTRUSION? Put that into google and you get alot of STRANGE hits on DOGs rear ends........... Guess that IS no the one im after :-)

 

"Now it would be a good time to replace the valve stem seals and check valve seats / valves for pitting." - Poured gasoline into the valves / All of them. As i saw one of the other vids referred to earlier.  Noooo leaks here. Assuming that is the Valves seats and valves that are good... But replacing them "just-in-case" or.. Eh.

 

Br, C

[RicardoM]

[felicia16v]

At that mileage I wouldn't worry about valves etc but up to you. The liner protrusion is basically how much they stand above the engine block. You need a decent straight edge and some small feeler gauges to measure. But again if there are no signs of the actual fire ring on the gasket leaking I would just clean everything and refit with need gaskets as long as the head is ok..

[felicia16v]

At that mileage I wouldn't worry about valves etc but up to you. The liner protrusion is basically how much they stand above the engine block. You need a decent straight edge and some small feeler gauges to measure. But again if there are no signs of the actual fire ring on the gasket leaking I would just clean everything and refit with need gaskets as long as the head is ok..

[RicardoM]

Assuming that is the Valves seats and valves that are good... But replacing them "just-in-case" or.. Eh.

I said 'check for valves pitting around the perimeter and also for pitting of the valve seats. I didn't say to replace them.

I recommended to change the valve stem seals while the head is off.

[RicardoM]

But PROTRUSION? Put that into google and you get alot of STRANGE hits on DOGs rear ends........... Guess that IS no the one im after :-)

Sue Google Sweden

By the way, in this case "Sue" is not a female name. It is a legal PROTRUSION inserted in Google's a$$

[criiser]

I said 'check for valves pitting around the perimeter and also for pitting of the valve seats. I didn't say to replace them.

I recommended to change the valve stem seals while the head is off.

 

That part I got. So that means dismantling the all of the valves.... Saw an video of that now - does not seem that complicated if I get that tool... Too... and would make alot of sense to do. Since pretty much eveything is open now...

 

Got an machine shop to level the head and preassure test it also - Going there thursday. 125Eur they wanted for the job. Hope that bugger will be flatter than flat Superflat

 

So I need to order them darn rubber thiggys on the valves too then... Oki doki.. Will get the partnr and order

 

Eh..

 

Would it be an terrible request to ask for the nr of this link:

 

http://www.teilekataloge.info/skoda/view_parts.php?catalog=sk&markt=CZ&modell=FEL&einsatz=2000&epis_typ=101&dir_name=R&hg_ug=103&bildtafel2=103050

 

Of the part that Im going to replace.. Cant seem to find/understand.... the rubber part nr...

 

Th Proexcursion thinggy. I got an level aluminum bar. AND some blade meassures. Will go ahead and take some measurements when I the car again thursday..

 

/C

Edited 25 January, 2016 by criiser

[RicardoM]

That part I got. So that means dismantling the all of the valves.... Saw an video of that now - does not seem that complicated if I get that tool... Too... and would make alot of sense to do. Since pretty much eveything is open now...

You don't need that tool. We have a brain, don't we? We can improvise. See my wonder (aka poor man's) tool below. If I could use it with the head on engine. you will be able too.

Would it be an terrible request to ask for the nr of this link:

http://www.teilekataloge.info/skoda/view_parts.php?catalog=sk&markt=CZ&modell=FEL&einsatz=2000&epis_typ=101&dir_name=R&hg_ug=103&bildtafel2=103050

 

That would be no. 18. See photos below. They come in various colors, depending of manufacturer. No worries. The real important thing is the inner diameter. Your valves have 7 mm diameter of the stem (code 047109675). The A at the end of code means 8 mm diameter!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 25 January, 2016 by RicardoM

[criiser]

They irony. There is only 6 ones left.. THIS is when I will see if Lugio can find some more for me And mabe also order the right HG and not the factory one..

 

/C

[criiser]

So - status. Left the head at the machine shop. And will pick it up next friday. THEY had a LOT in their shop Good business..

 

Will clean the block for now, and get the remaining parts and the Elring Head gasket and not the original one based of Lugosy's recomendations. Also hoping that he can hook me up with the seals too since I got only 6 original parts. And he had an good/better alternative to it.

 

SO - slowly moving/making progress....

 

Br, C

[RicardoM]

The best HGs for Felicia I know of are made by TEMAC.

Edited 28 January, 2016 by RicardoM

[criiser]

Gah - battle that out with Lugosy's  plz He said that

 

/C

[RicardoM]

I seem to remember felicia16v having the same opinion, but hey... it's your money...