Felicia 1.3 MPI - Oil in coolant tank / white gue in Oil cap

[felicia16v]

Temac every time. But I guess as it's been a while since I've needed one maybe there are better ones available now.

[criiser]

So, today was rather slow on this project. Removed the cover in-front of the cylinders, cleaned, replaced the rubber gasket and refitted it. Cleaned all Bolt holes and removed old residues on the block. Used compressed air to also clean out the bolt holes. Removed the coolant tank and are give it some degreasing love. Removing the nasty oil residues inside it... again - Also fitted new coupe air filter while at it. Fairly easy to reach when the engine and all is away - The thread cleaner kit I got, was too small. So the "cleaner" did not get ALL the way down in the long bolt holes... SO, considering getting an longer kit..

 

When It comes to the valve seat seals, I think I will get the tool - I don't have any "spare" spanners NOR do I have an setup that allows me to drill into one. Looking at my goto shop did not have it.. Hmm so, might have to BUY an spanner for this to make sense - Hmm. Anyway, that will have to wait until the head is back from the shop....

 

Any suggestions on cleaning the air-intake / throttle stuff? I read somewhere in this forum that you should do that to get good idling speed at the engine again. (And reset the ECU too) I believe the ECU in the car is REALLY resetted by now.. NO battery connected for 3 weeks

 

Lastly, the HG itself. I got one Original one already, however, since the valve seat seals are OUT of production I was opting for getting those from Lugosy's in the thread getting parts from Him. IN that thread, he clearly recommended "Elring HG". Since that was WAY better than the original (that I actually already have).. Again, I have no clue what is better than the other SO I come to you all for that advice..

 

Kind regards,

Christian

 

Edit: Found the tool at last. 15 Eur is a no brainer: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Motor/Ventilfjaderbage-2000016983/

Edited 30 January, 2016 by criiser

[criiser]

Hah - Good 4 me - It seems that the original I got -IS infact the Temac ONE-- (Added pics in the gallery) -Wooho-

 

/C

[RicardoM]

Hah - Good 4 me - It seems that the original I got -IS infact the Temac ONE-- (Added pics in the gallery) -Wooho-

Oh, so in fact you CAN listen to us...

Any suggestions on cleaning the air-intake / throttle stuff? I read somewhere in this forum that you should do that to get good idling speed at the engine again. (And reset the ECU too) I believe the ECU in the car is REALLY resetted by now.. NO battery connected for 3 weeks

Disconnecting the battery is not 'resetting the TB'. There is a specific process using VAG-COM or Motordiag Simos Manager v1.53.

Edited 30 January, 2016 by RicardoM

[criiser]

Woohooo... Where are you getting the impression IM -NOT- listening to your advice.. Hold on there

 

in the thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377871-skoda-classic-parts-directly-from-czech-republic/

 

You write amongst others : -"...He works as a mechanic and he is a very serious, knowledgeable, and thrustworthy guy...." (Referring to Lugosy)

 

In the same thread I asked for prices on HG for the project and Lugosy said:

 

-"Hi Christian, here are parts, which I recommending - only original, not china and turkey. Head gasket only Elring. Temac = vulgo original Skoda, is no long living ****. I have Temac only 10000 km, and broken. But Elring was mounting in production, and it is quality."

 

HENCE why I wrote: -"Gah - battle that out with Lugosy's  plz" - referring to your friend and his recomendations...

 

further: Why I asked about the battery thing -because again- I read up on this forum (Ofc not all might be correct, hence why I ask:)

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/357889-throttle-body-problems-felicia-fun/?hl=%2Breset+%2Becu

 

Indicated that disconnecting MIGHT sometimes -"Some times disconeting battery will work"

 

So; Summing this up. I have an Temac HG. Lugosy recomends Elring. You recomend Lugosy. What gasket should I get really...... Im confused af.. I dont mind going back to my shop with the Temac HG and getting my money back. SO wasting money wont be an issue.. But what WOULD be great, is if you have an discussion with Lugosy and maybe you two guys can settle the score on the HG selection. If you said Mount Microsoft HG - I would

 

Again, Your patience with us DIY is amazing!

 

Kind regards,

Christian

[RicardoM]

C,

I understand your confusion. I recommended Lugosy indeed, but that doesn't mean we can't have different opinions sometimes, mostly based on different experience. He might have had bad luck at one time with one TEMAC HG and he decided to switch to ELRING from then on. I, on the other hand, had never issues with TEMAC HGs, and I repaired quite a few engines. Bottom line is this: nobody is the wizard of all cars and you should take everything we recommend with a pinch of salt. We are well intended, that is for sure. Yet we may have different preferred methods to do the same thing. We may like (sometimes subjectively) different part manufacturers based on our personal results. In your case, you'll be successful in the HG job, I have no doubt. You have the right parts, you struggle to have the right tools, you have a garage, you studied thoroughly what has to be done, and you get some help from us here and there. If I seemed critical or ironic in my observation about listening to us, that might have been because there are some health issues in my family and I am a bit grumpy...

[criiser]

I truly truly apologize and sincerely wish you and your family the best of health! Wish for that to be resolved in the best of ways!

 

As far as the brand of HG - I have the Temac one in hand if wich i was lucky to realize that two professionals recomended - So depending on the delivery times involved with Lugosy the Temac one might just end up on the engine.

 

Again, my best wishes for you and your family!

 

Kind regards,

Christian

[felicia16v]

Just fit it. It's the correct gasket for the engine it's not going to magically turn it into a big pile molten alloy or anything.. I wouldn't even be thinking about fitting new valve stem seals or reseating valves at your mileage it's something that hardly ever becomes a problem with these motors. Yeh I'm sure "the book " says it's good practice but you could have had a working car again by now.

Everyone is fighting their own battles and entitled to be grumpy at times Ricardo and I'm sure sometimes a bit gets lost in translation too. I've been fighting cancer for 14 months now so I have my moments too..

Edited 3 February, 2016 by felicia16v

[RicardoM]

Let's not rush him. He does a good job for a DIYer. He works in a methodical way and he takes his time to prepare the job. felicia16v, I know you're more like 'change that damn HG in half hour and let's get it over with' type of guy, but some people are beginners. Not to mention C has to wait a lot for the head resurfacing. As for the valve stem seals, it is not all about the mileage, it is also about the age of the car, maintenance, and driving style. I saw crusty seals at 90,000 km on a 19 years car. I saw pitted valve seats on cars with overheat problems. Let him check, it's good practice. He has not an employer yelling at him to fix two cars per hour.

[criiser]

felica16v - I'm sorry to hear that. And to be honest there are not proper words to say on the cancer illnes.... I'm sorry!

 

When it comes to the car/enginge - I dont NEED the car to run NOW NOW ish. so For me its not an hassle. I do this for recreation aswell as the actual getting the car to work for my daugher SO I dont mind checking the valve seals at all.. Infact they cost 2 EUR pice in se (I wish I got them all 8) and changing them seems real easy -WHY NOT- the car and the material in the seals SHOUDL have been worn over time. and 15 yrs is some years. Especially the warm/cold schenarios we have here in SE.

 

Again, WHILE the head is dismounted are there stuff I should DO / Change while at it for a reasonable price... SO I dont need to redo this again in 6 months... TO get access to {insert random gasket/seal/blah}.. THAT is the feedback I think many of us DIY is seeking here... Stuff we WOULD never know, but you as professionals DO know and hopefully don't mind sharing.. like theese valve seals.. CHEAP as f....ck do them while at it...

 

I read another thread here where the DIY did it under 1,5 hrs all in all... Well TBH - I might not be the fastest worker. But slow and steady is my way hence DIY and not professional Mechanic...

 

Workwise - its a different ballgame

 

Im picking up the Head tomorrow morning... SO exited.. 100 Eur for the level struff. Seems reasonable...  BUT

 

The main thing is, I TRULY feel confident in this thanks to you all and this great community!!! 

 

Br, Christian

Edited 3 February, 2016 by criiser

[criiser]

Gah - SO total cost for leveling the head ended up on 200 Eur.. But it looks brand new however - Sadly they dismounted all the valved... Should have sent with the seals :(

 

So - further waiting for me now. Ordered two more valve seals from Lugosy and also the elusive Elring Headgasket... Around 15 Eur for the gasket seems reasonable enough. SO while waiting I will replace the seals I have...

 

I my process, I need to clean the head bolts. Read about, Diesel, kerosene and normal DE-greaser. What are you using - and how? Kerosine bath? Diesel Bath?

 

Regards,

C

[RicardoM]

I use WD40 then run a new nut (or a die) on the threads. When I am happy I apply a thin film of fresh engine oil on the threads then bag all bolts in a clean plastic bag waiting for assembly.

Edited 5 February, 2016 by RicardoM

[criiser]

So. While waiting for the parts from CZ i removed one valve to see how it old seal was... And to by blunt suprise - the machine shop MUST have replaced them because that rubber and spring looked damn new to me. So - with that positive surprise I've moved on to re assemble the engine (as my MAIN car now has broken down.. and need repairs too :( ).

 

measured the protrusion to 0.05 mm at least. Maybe cyl 4 (all the way top the right ) is a little bit less than that. I dont have thinner gauges :( and the 0.05 did not run under my metal bar... - reading the recomendation of 0.10 and the linings are 0.10 0.12 etc tells me that this might be something I have to live with...

 

Will go back and see if i MIGHT get the 0.10 mm blade at some of the cylinders...

 

Br, C

[criiser]

So, summarizing the experience;

 

Yesterday, assembled the entire engine back together. adjusted the Valves, however, in 20+ Celsius room and thus will need to redo them outside in Zero degree air....

 

As many before me, quite some smoke came out of the engine at first start up. Good thing I read abou this before and calling that down to Oil and 5-56 residues

going away.

 

With that said, remaining on the to do would be replace the Chinese thermostat and maybe investigate/clean the engine gearbox as I suspect an leak there as well.

(that needs to be in different thread however..)

 

But; I really must than you all for standing by and sharing your great advice - RicardoM and Felica16v (And all of you others!) all in all, the experience

was great and something I would not hesitate to redo.

 

In the end, It needed to be done this weekend as my work allows me no time in the weeks AND our other car sadly broke down too :(

 

Outstanding questions: The procursion was not on ALL cylinders up to spec - within 0.10 mm of eachother but on #4 under 0.05 and up to 0.10 on #1 - What 

would you guys have done in this scenario?

 

Kind regards,

Christian

[felicia16v]

Without knowing how you measured the protrusion and what exactly the values were it's difficult to say but as long as it is higher than the surrounding block it should be OK.

Reshimming the liners is not a bad job to do but is a bit more involving than just doing the head gasket

[RicardoM]

Yesterday, assembled the entire engine back together. adjusted the Valves, however, in 20+ Celsius room and thus will need to redo them outside in Zero degree air....

The Skoda service manual recommends 20 C. For good reason, you can't get winter time or a freezing garage everywhere.

 

Outstanding questions: The procursion was not on ALL cylinders up to spec - within 0.10 mm of eachother but on #4 under 0.05 and up to 0.10 on #1 - What would you guys have done in this scenario?

Measuring the protrusion of the liners above the engine block is a fiddly job. You need a dial gauge and perfectly clean surface for high precision. That is why I doubt liner #4 protrusion was not in specs.

[criiser]

I believe the air was warmer than 20 c - and I was under the impression it needed to be lower.. right

 

 

Prerequisites

The engine must be cold and the air temperature must be below 20 C.

 

Without knowing how you measured the protrusion and what exactly the values were it's difficult to say but as long as it is higher than the surrounding block it should be OK.
Reshimming the liners is not a bad job to do but is a bit more involving than just doing the head gasket

 

What I read in the service manual was that the shims came in 0.10 mm 0.12mm and larger.. And the spec was between 0.07 and 0.12 but no more than 0.10 between the different ones. For me. That seems complicated to get all in the same level I used my steel ruler and my blade measures (Same as for the valve clearance)  - But - this is just theory now and good to know what problems wrong protrusion can generate and IF that symptom happens, then revisit..

 

Br, Christian

[RicardoM]

What I read in the service manual was that the shims came in 0.10 mm 0.12mm and larger.. And the spec was between 0.07 and 0.12 but no more than 0.10 between the different ones.

The protrusion of the liners should be 0.07...0.12 mm; correct with shims, if necessary.

♦ Shims are available in the thicknesses 0.10, 0.12 and 0.14mm.

♦ The difference of the liners to each other must not be more than 0.04 mm.

 

Reshimming the liners is not an easy job. Basically you have to pull out the liners and the pistons.

 

 

[RicardoM]

Hey C,

What's up? Did you finish the job?

[criiser]

Hey there. Job was finished with good success over two weeks ago.(Think I wrote that "Yesterday, assembled the entire engine back together.")

 

Assembly was quite easily done after all. Borrowed compressor for air preassure cleaning in the enginge block. Used acetone on the HG, Head and Block. Assembled the Head with all the new gaskets for intake and exhaust. Cleaned the Trottle air intake (LOTS of residues) - Washed the coolant system with the cleaning solution. Fluished that out and refilled with fine fresh new cooland mix. New fresh oil and filter. Yeah we are good... 

 

The tempreature of the engine is not "rock on" the desired temprature. Goes up and down after it's "warm" - I write that to the crappy chinese stuff I replaced inittially. And also, haven dug up the ODBC connector to "reset" the Simos since I cleaned the air intake of residues. Apart from that. I think its good. 

 

Minor conserns about the gearbox and oil under the car around that area. - Will clean the entire engine from underneath and see where that oil might come from - or if that was from the engine that dripped down....

 

-Liners. Thats a big NO for me. Looks like the engine needs to come out to get onto that :( Not doing that...... And for now, the engine seems to be super fine anyway. An little uneven when warm and ideling - apart from that. Easy starter etc etc. So - next weekend i will see how coolant/oil-levels in the car and residues are. 

 

Thanks for checking back! As said before, this forum made me do the job properly and well guided!!! Great resource!

 

/C

[RicardoM]

The tempreature of the engine is not "rock on" the desired temprature. Goes up and down after it's "warm"

I put that on air trapped in the cooling system. Fill properly the expansion tank with coolant. Squeeze a few times the upper radiator hose when the engine is warm. Check for coolant leaks below manifolds (back of the block).

 

-Liners. Thats a big NO for me. Looks like the engine needs to come out to get onto that :(

Are you concerned there are issues with that now? Or just thinking in the long run?

[criiser]

Temp - I suspect that too. I'll top it off again and squese like a mad man.. (Thats how I did it intially aswell so. BUt might need again)

 

Liners - Longrun. Now, i think its good.. Has to be. Seems to be.

 

/C