So the sleep mode of terminal 30 starts after 30 minutes when you remove the key from the contact and do not alter the hazard warning light button, doors, tailgate, bonnet, ext. lights or ignition lock.

 

And if one of them is triggered, it starts all over again (and drain your battery). Interesting.

 

 

You don't need to remove the key from the contact. Terminal 30 does it's job even if you have the key onto 'accessories' position, such as radio working. At least that's how mine is behaving. Also, it does alter some other things such as the button from the driver's door which locks and unlocks the car. Now, let's talk numbers. The dome light has 2 x C5W and 1 x W5W bulb. 15W would drain about 1.2Ah from the battery.  I would say that a 45A battery at a 70% life would still be able to hold at least 30amps in it. I've been in the situation when I had to start a 1.8 engine with less than 20amps and it did the trick, so at least the petrol ones would start even after an 8h night of standing. Usually, you don't leave all 3 bulbs glowing and usually you have a better battery installed. My point is that terminal 30 would have been doing a better job if it would have been able to cut the power to the exterior lights and not the interior ones. Having 2 x C5W on the front, 2 x W5W + 2 x P21W in the back + the dash leds and the ones for the window switches would really shorten the battery life if the headlight switch would be on the 'on' position for more than .. 4h. But this is just me:)

So, with terminal 30, you can adjust the max operating time (engine off/off-key and/or after closing/locking your car):

 

* Heating low/hi, X relief and door warning relays

* The interior (reading) lights (front, rear, luggage and door warning, even when switched 'to on')

* Switches of the power windows

* Driver-side switches for locking and unlocking

* Radio/telephone

* Cigarette lighter

 

Some of the above depend on the car accessories, model and make. Anything to add or remove?

Edited 27 March, 20188 yr by Palatinux
forgot something

I think there may be some confusion here between terminal 30 and terminal 30G.

Terminal 30 is permanent battery 12V, first coming into the cabin onto "TV2 Terminal 30 wiring junction, behind dash panel, left" fed from a 110A strip fuse on the battery.  Nothing can make that switch off.

There might be some useful info here.  It relates to a different car, but it suggests that the J519 module may monitor the current going to the interior lighting circuit through the relay inside, and may cause itself to wake up if it sees current flow there when it is asleep.

Your are right Wino, my mistake. We only have to look for 'Terminal 30(g) voltage supply relay'. Attached are all it's positions in the MK1 flow diagrams.

 

Auto-sensing ? (from Wino's link) 'If the interior light switch -E317- is set to the I position when terminal 30G is off, and if no other terminal 30G load is on, the onboard supply control unit -J519- detects that the load has been switched on and activates terminal 30G'. Might explain Alexandrus experiences. Very useful option for people that are living in their cars.

 

So if that also applies to the Fabia MK1, you then get into your car, set the lights to 'on', pop out one of the interior lights, play dead for +30 minutes, reinsert the light, and voila.. E317 is alive again.

 

Lets see if I can find that in my massive manual collection too.

Terminal 30(g) voltage supply relay - all locations - Skoda Fabia MK1.pdf

Searched for J317, E317, 30G in my collection, Nothing else useful found.

 

I will try it out in a few days and I hope that feature is not on the MK1. If it is, it might explain why my car battery is draining faster. Dirty switch = resistance = load > j317 on.

@Wino was right. Even my AQW fabia has this feature. If the 30G terminal time has expired and the J317 relay falls off, you can activate J317 it again by putting any load on the line under fuse 4 (or even maybe fuse 5). J317 engages and the lights go on. (Just press the reading light).