will be even more fun if I eventually get to 300 bhp!

 

deep pockets required,

The turbo to pancake pipe mate, mines is fooked so won't be any good to you but at least you can see whair it is and the lugs..

Hope this helps in some way

Sorry to hijack a gnats but is this pipe a common issue?

If so, what's the best solution?

Sorry to hijack a gnats but is this pipe a common issue?

If so, what's the best solution?

It is and isn't just your luck lol

Its the lug connectors that let it down,best solution is to replace with a silicon alternative and jubilee it to the turbo housing

wonder why they made it like that ? think I'll get my tame mech to check mine lol....

My pd130 is the same, totally shat design like, iv had to replace the top Pipe at a cost of 50 sheets and it's still not right, iv "had" to buy a darkside egr delete kit witch comes with no lugs and upgraded all the bottom pips with silicone and the vrs pancake, shame it's made faster and better lol

Edited 5 March, 201610 yr by marko pollo

Take a look at my bora hell lol

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/454642-the-lesser-diesel/?view=getnewpost

Makes me love my vrs even more lol

right, tried again with the boost gauge today and gave up..... skinned both my hands, couldn't get the ****** pipe through to the engine bay , decided to go about it another way..... I have an OBDII wi-fi thingy.... bought an app! (there's an app for that) I got OBD fusion (£7.99) diagnostics app, with lots of logging, fault reading, sensor checking etc etc ... oh, and a few "dashboards"

 

 

interesting to see things like what the engine temp actually is instead of the ubiquitous 90C lol....

 

anyway, boost is what were were after , its an American app, so I did a bit of fiddling with settings, as it was calibrated to max 15 psi, and it just kept maxing out when i put my foot down....

 

my brain works in bar , so set it up like that above

 

right, don't know how accurate these things are , i assume pretty accurate, as they are reading sensors and the ECU in the car, not making things up!

 

On my test fly (and it was a "FLY" lol... car was feeling pretty quick, 1.5C out there.....) it seemed to constantly hold boost at 1.9 BAR (Which is 27.6 psi)  It did peak several times at higher than that, but it was not a straight clear road, so I was watching traffic more than displays I think I saw 2.2 bar at one point, which is 32 psi.....

 

anyway, "holds" boost at 1.9 bar (27.6 psi)

 

does this sound right for a stage one map, (mapped with decat and 3inch exhaust, performance filter)

 

felt quick anyway ....

 

comments please! (not about my feeble inability to plug a pipe thrugh to the engine bay! lol...) :p

 

intake temps is another useful thing it can monitor!

 

edit: ovverun or tickover is -0.8 bar

Edited 6 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

Your mad lol, phone me and I will talk you threw piping the gauge, you are better with a gauge than any app...

That sounds about right for the boost pressure, I was running 20 odd with a stage one

Stage 1 I heard is 18-20 psi, are you sure that apps turbo pressure or absolute pressure (take 1 bar off?) as those levels of boost seem to high for those mods

A second thought could be that if those boost levels are what the ecu is being told by the map sensor but maybe they are not right (as thats more like stage 2 I think) the ecu will cut boost if the maf and air temp and knock sensors are not in line with the map sensor! Id say for sure you dont have a leak if those boost levels are right, you need the upgrades that boost needs, fuel reg 4 bar, bigger intercooler, large tip, bam fuel pump and injectors possibly.

Get your gauge in to confirm your apps data first

Edited 6 March, 201610 yr by OutlawKen

Stage 1 I heard is 18-20 psi, are you sure that apps turbo pressure or absolute pressure (take 1 bar off?) as those levels of boost seem to high for those mods

A second thought could be that if those boost levels are what the ecu is being told by the map sensor but maybe they are not right (as thats more like stage 2 I think) the ecu will cut boost if the maf and air temp and knock sensors are not in line with the map sensor! Id say for sure you dont have a leak if those boost levels are right, you need the upgrades that boost needs, fuel reg 4 bar, bigger intercooler, large tip, bam fuel pump and injectors possibly.

Get your gauge in to confirm your apps data first

I dont know where the info comes for the digital boost gauge, looking at the software, i think its a "calculation" using more than one source of info..... I can get maf flow readings and fuel flow readings from the app.... (and fuel pressure readings) i just don't know what they would mean....

 

But , what you said, get proper boost gauge in to check I suppose! lol..

 

for now it feels pretty quick! and its running well, so happy enough.

Edited 6 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

trip out to the sea today , and a chance to play with the new live readings on my app!

 

 

 

defiantly boosts up to 2.2 bar (32psi) then settles as the revs rise to 1.7 bar (24.6 psi) ....

 

intake temps were really good considering it hasn't got a fmic.... highest intake temp was 22C ! granted it was 5C outside

Presumably its what the ECU gets from the MAP sensor. A boost gauge tapped in interdependently of the MAP will verify whether its correct or not

Fit the boost gauge mate, only way to be sure

Presumably its what the ECU gets from the MAP sensor. A boost gauge tapped in interdependently of the MAP will verify whether its correct or not

 

 

Fit the boost gauge mate, only way to be sure

agreed guys

agreed guys

If your stuck phone me, I will get some pics up to show you whair to fees the pipe threw to the dash, if it's not a digital gauge it will be very easy if it is, it will just be easy lol

how I've got my little electronic dashboard set up lol....

 

Sorry if you've already said but what app is that dude?

OBD fusion .. (£7.99) you eed the wi-fi connector for your OBD port, and your phone connects to the "car" wi-fi in real time...https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

 

edit: I have an ELM327 plugged into the obd port.... quite cheap off ebay

Edited 8 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

Hi mate, got some pics for you on how to feed the pipe through the dash...

First remove the right hand side of the scuttle panel, it's held in with a fee poping clips just give it a pull pry and it will pop off, be mindful that in the corner under the bonnet corner is quite tricky to get out but with a bit jigging and bonnet moving it does come off, the washer jet pipe is connected to the scuttle aswell but DONT remove it as it's a pain to get back on and WILL cause you issues with leaks if removed, once that's off you can pop up off the wiring loom cover and that's whair you feed the pipe threw, on a side note you might want to feed a live feed aswell if your thinking bass in the future...

Once that's dun you Can see the pollen filter and behind it to the left hand side you will see a black grommet, that's where you want to fees the pipe threw, and the live if you choose to do so...

On the other side, remove the glovebox and you can then get access to the other side of the grommet, I taped the pipe to a metal coat hanger that I straitened out and pushed it threw nice and easy, do the same for the live, you need to lift the THICK BLACK LOOM up to get the pipe threw....

Once it's threw route it to where the gauge is going, if it's digital then send me a pick of the GAUGE loom and I will see if I can help you wire it up, I put my sender in the glovebox...

Hope this helps and you ditch the app and get some "real" boost reading mate

No excuse now lol

Edited 8 March, 201610 yr by marko pollo

I have the ELM327 wotsit.. Got the Torque app at the min, paid the coupla quid for the full version.

Always like to know alternatives though.. ta

You can see my boost pipe (red pipe to the right ) and my live (thick blue wire to the left) in the last pick..

No excuse now lol

 

I'll give it a go .... I have an Audi TT strut brace thats a little in the way , but I should be able to make it work..... may as well replace the pollen filter while I'm at it!

I have the ELM327 wotsit.. Got the Torque app at the min, paid the coupla quid for the full version.

Always like to know alternatives though.. ta

I was looking for the torque app when I came accross the one I bought! lol...

As Marko Polo has given me no choice with the pictoral walkthrough, I have installed the boost gauge today! firstly getting the pipe through the wall into the space behind the glovebox...I started this today because UPS told me they were bringing me my new pollen filter today... is it here yet? NO :( grrrr...

 

 

had to cut a cable tie that was holding the wiring up, to move it out the way, but got through none the less!

 

 

made the connection and tidied it up in the engine bay ...

 

 

temp siting of the boost gauge... all works!

 

 

 

ok, very short test drive, but it works, preliminary figures are as follows...

 

boots up to 1.6 bar (23 psi) then holds between 1.3-1.4 bar (19-20.5 psi) dropping to 1 bar at high revs... 14.5 psi.... you can see it waiver as I get that "flutter" in power....in and out... between 1.2-1.4 bar on full throttle....(17.5 psi- 20.5 psi) ...

 

these are the "real" figures as taken off the top of the diverter valve!

 

so for real... is 19-20 psi peaking at 23 psi right for a stage one map ? lol...

 

cheers marko pollo! lol..