Since I renewed the head in my Fabia 1,2 i Hav drive about 100 km. 

I measured the oil level to day, and there was just a little bit on the oil pin!

 

I think the engine use some oil?

 

I will measure more, but what experience do with this engine?

 

Something wrong with the ventilation?

 

Has anyone good experience with mineral oil for example. 20 -50w.

Has anyone good experience with mineral oil for example. 20 -50w.

 

It's what we used to use in the old days because engines were badly made and synthetics were super rare and incredibly expensive, nowadays engine tolerances are fantastic and synthetics are cheap and commonplace.

 

There's really no excuse to use it in a modern engine, particularly in Norway at this time of year, where it must be like pumping treacle when the engine's cold.

 

As I've said before though, if you're just using it for topping up, anything is better than nothing.

I use 20-50 w in my veteran cars. But it is may be risky to use it in moderne engines, as you say. 

I have to measure more ....

 

May be I can use it in the summer, since the car has gone 130 000 km?

 

I have to get the oil consume down! 

I don't like to change piston rings...... 

They are not expensive, but it is a lot job....

http://www.autodeler.co.no/mahle-original/2672602

The head is perfect with new valve steams and good compression. No oil leak any places.... 

Have you done a compression test to confirm the piston ring problems? I'll be very surprised if there's any wear at all with only 130k on the clock. It is possible that the rings may be stuck in which case soaking them and thrashing the engine may unstick them.

You could check whether the PCV valve is broken, quite easily. There's a small slot on the side of it, which should not change the engine speed/sound if you cover it with a finger. The thing can be disassembled to check the diaphragm inside if you find that there is a change. 

 

Picture showing slot:

 

Picture showing disassembly method:

 

Have you done a compression test to confirm the piston ring problems? I'll be very surprised if there's any wear at all with only 130k on the clock. It is possible that the rings may be stuck in which case soaking them and thrashing the engine may unstick them.

Yes I have done a compression test and it is very good. I was thinking of a cylinder leak test to day?

You could check whether the PCV valve is broken, quite easily. There's a small slot on the side of it, which should not change the engine speed/sound if you cover it with a finger. The thing can be disassembled to check the diaphragm inside if you find that there is a change. 

 

Picture showing slot:

 

Picture showing disassembly method:

 

Thanks! I will check that now. I have blow through it, and it is open. But I will check the walve.... and the slot...

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

If the piston rings were that worn surely it would be blowing blue smoke out of the exhaust? It's a massive oil loss just for 100 km. Are you sure it's not leaking?

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by TMB

If the piston rings were that worn surely it would be blowing blue smoke out of the exhaust? It's a massive oil loss just for 100 km. Are you sure it's not leaking?

 

I agree, something isn't right, Torbo seems an experienced and thorough mechanic so I'm reluctant to suggest he may have made a mistake somewhere, but if the compression is healthy then the rings are fine, it has to be an oversight like forgetting to top up after the oil change (empty oil filter) or a big leak.

I checked the PCV-valve to day, and i was ok. I cleaned it a little, but no problem.

 

I also checked the lead down /sylinder leak, and it was a little out from normal, but a little more at syl nr 1. 

 

The spark plugs was a little dark, so it indicate some oil consumption. 

 

I will drive the car some km before i order new pistons or rings.

If the piston rings were that worn surely it would be blowing blue smoke out of the exhaust? It's a massive oil loss just for 100 km. Are you sure it's not leaking?

No leak! I have checked the engine all around. i have no blue smoke, only a little grey... My other Fabia vita the good 1,4 engine is clear from exhaust! Clean as air....!

 

I hope goof oil will fix it, if not I have a piston job to do....

 

The spark plugs:

 

syl 3 to left ....

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I checked the PCV-valve to day, and i was ok. I cleaned it a little, but no problem.

 

I also checked the lead down /sylinder leak, and it was a little out from normal, but a little more at syl nr 1. 

 

The spark plugs was a little dark, so it indicate some oil consumption. 

 

I will drive the car some km before i order new pistons or rings.

 

Dry black plugs can be fuel, wet black plugs are oil.

 

No leak! I have checked the engine all around. i have no blue smoke, only a little grey... My other Fabia vita the good 1,4 engine is clear from exhaust! Clean as air....!

 

I hope goof oil will fix it, if not I have a piston job to do....

 

Grey smoke is fuel, not oil.

 

Maybe you're over fuelling and suffering bore wash?

I seem to remember Tech1e mentioning recently that injectors on these were/are known for leaking or overfuelling generally, I forget which? Wonder if there is a TSB about it?

I seem to remember Tech1e mentioning recently that injectors on these were/are known for leaking or overfuelling generally, I forget which? Wonder if there is a TSB about it?

The fault code reader tell me that the  combustion i to rick in bank 1. But the fuel  combustion is low when I drive. 0,5 l/10 km. 0,6 else...

The spark plugs looks oily... - som I think I have a big job in front of me... 

The head is 100 %. New parts and perfect grinded valves and adjustet length go the salve to mach the lifters.

With the leak down test the valves was sealed. Only a little sound  through the oil filling hole. May be a little to much from syl 1.? 

 

I should like to drive a little to see, but I think it i best to open the engine and may bed change pistons? or rings?

I will sell the car before the somber, so I think its best to change the pistons? I don't won't to have a byer on my door after a while.

I will check if I can get a crank bearing? but I don't think they are to change? I can't find any? Cant find anything in the manual either...?

 

another suggestion: 

But I can do so: Lathe new tracks in the old pistons and insert spacers on the upper rings then be the engine as sealed as a potty. As spacers I can use the old oil rings that are usually good enough. I have done this in some old Volvo engines. Very good compression, as result... new rings of corse. 

Do not tell anyone about this! It is my secret tricks to get better compression and density of cylinders!

http://i64.tinypic.com/14t4gfb.jpg [/ IMG]

 

 

(yes I know that I am crasy).... I do newer tell any about that either. 

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I think *officially*, the bottom end of these engines isn't serviceable. Something to do with the way the crank is sandwiched between two castings either side of its centreline.  See if you can find SSP260 in a language you read easily, that may talk about this aspect of the design, I can't remember clearly. Otherwise, you may find info at workshop-manuals.com.

 

I would certainly look at how the injectors are performing, using some method of measuring and comparing their output. The observed richness of some cylinder(s) coupled to overall leanness suggests to me that the ECU is battling to try to solve some problems. I have a spare set of injectors that I could send you to try, but I think they may be different between 6-valve and 12-valve engines, I will have a look at a parts catalogue this evening, to check.

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by Wino

Dry black plugs can be fuel, wet black plugs are oil.

 

 

Grey smoke is fuel, not oil.

 

Maybe you're over fuelling and suffering bore wash?

Normaly you are right. Blue smoke is oil consumption.  But here the consumption in the "brother land", so I think it is oil. The catalytic part will also change the color a little, so I think I have a little oil consumption problem. 

I think *officially*, the bottom end of these engines isn't serviceable. Something to do with the way the crank is sandwiched between two castings either side of its centreline.  See if you can find SSP260 in a language you read easily, that may talk about this aspect of the design, I can't remember clearly. Otherwise, you may find info at workshop-manuals.com.

 

I would certainly look at how the injectors are performing, using some method of measuring and comparing their output. The observed richness of some cylinder(s) coupled to overall leanness suggests to me that the ECU is battling to try to solve some problems. I have a spare set of injectors that I could send you to try, but I think they may be different between 6-valve and 12-valve engines, I will have a look at a parts catalogue this evening, to check.

That should be interesting! My engine is a 8 valves. That should hopefully be the same? Do you have a price on the injectors? I can not find something in the workshop manual about overhauling the engine under the head. But since it i possible to get pistons, I think there is a solution. Skoda/VW said the same about the head, but since tree was so much problems, they had to make a repair manual. - I have read that some places. 

2003 AWY engine code, injectors = 03D906031C

2005 AZQ engine code, injectors (what I have) = 03E906031

 

Not the same unfortunately.

Nothing to do about it.... Thanks anyway!

 

I think I drive a little, and so I will take the engine in apart.

Interesting.

Checked out the pistons today. A little loose in the sylinders, but feathers were ok

Think it enough with new piston rings with but spans. A little rubbing of the cylinders may well also be fine for faster customization.

 

Then we'll see. Shall also modfisere crank house ventilation, as it is slightly larger overpressure than desirable operational.

I  wish to have a little more vacuum when running and motor braking.....

The valve that controls this is little either or, but so constructed. I will try to bore an hole in it in the middle of the senter - first 2 mm then 3 mm to see hats best?

My be build a new walve?

 

Can not recommend others to do this! To much work....

Edited 8 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

  You're not afraid of getting deep into it!

 

Please take as many photos as possible so we can all learn from your bravery. :sun:

  You're not afraid of getting deep into it!

 

Please take as many photos as possible so we can all learn from your bravery. :sun:

Thanks, I will try do do that...

Well, Im not sure this is the right to do? Not sure if it is recommended? No normal people would not recommend this, not the factory or any mechanic. But Im an old Viking, so I will never let any thing stop me to to crasy thing. 

 

I have also an idea to modify the PCV-valve as you mention. I think some of the problem is there? 

New piston rings will may be do it better? It to expensive to change them  I think?

If I get really good result, I will tell you more about this.... - 

Edited 8 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I would be careful messing with the pcv valve as most of the 1.2 engines run it straight to the vacuum side of the throttle body so it may actually suck oil out if you modify it.

Do the bores look ok? I believe you are not supposed to rehone them but have seen it done. Also seen the bigger engines with bores that have tapered out halfway down causing oil consumption

I would be careful messing with the pcv valve as most of the 1.2 engines run it straight to the vacuum side of the throttle body so it may actually suck oil out if you modify it.

Do the bores look ok? I believe you are not supposed to rehone them but have seen it done. Also seen the bigger engines with bores that have tapered out halfway down causing oil consumption

Im not sure about what you mean with: "Also seen the bigger engines with bores that have tapered out halfway down causing oil consumption " ?

 

I bored up the PCV-system on my Volvo Amazon witch was tuned up, and i stoppet to use oil. But I think you are right her with this engine.

I will look more at the end of the system on/in the end of the motor. May be I will find the "mystery"? The boers look fine, no stripes og no wearing edge. mystic!