What size are the threads, diameter and pitch? I can look it up?

Thanks! It is 8 mm and 1 mm  treads per mm.

Edited 14 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

47NM assuming it's 12.9 high tensile.

Thanks! Thats much!  -- -My be its about the same or close as 3 MN + 90 degres?

 

Dry og oilet og a little oiled treads?

 

I Think I clean the treads an use Locktite on them.

Good idea?

Thanks! Thats much!  -- -My be its about the same or close as 3 MN + 90 degres?

 

Dry og oilet og a little oiled treads?

 

I Think I clean the treads an use Locktite on them.

Good idea?

 

Dry.

 

Yes Loctite, I'd do 40NM with Loctite.

Dry.

 

Yes Loctite, I'd do 40NM with Loctite.

I also think this is a safe middelway. Ill file a little also, If the manometer dint stop i 3,6 - 3,9 i will stop... But I don't think so, since you have checked..

I find a spring to the PCV-valve yesterday, thaw is 50 % of the strength as the original and placed it inside the other.

Altogether, the strength about 50% higher and the pressure may be 50% ?

 

It is easy to test, no permanent thing.

 

If all this stop smoke and oil consumption, I will be happy.

 

And I most drop to change the bearing shells, since I have read there is different metal in upper and lover shells. I saw it today, the lower shell is darker (lead) and the upper is more equal (tin).

The Audi logo is stemplet in in them...

I drive 700 km to day with my other Fabia 1.4 2000 model with on oil consumption. 

Better engine? I think so....

 

More easy to serve also... 5,1 liter /100 km exactly the same (0,5) as the 1,2 engine - funny.... Normaly the 1,4 use 0,2 - 0,5 more...

I drive economic as usual... 0,1 more to be exact...

Edited 15 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Something special: - Im wondering to adjust the camshaft 3-4 degrees forward to get better torque on lower rpm?

 

I have done that, 6 degrees, on my old Volvo with B18 engine and stronger camshaft....

I get the max torque down from over 3000 rpm to 2500 rpm.

 

Can I get some problems with the ECU timing in ignition or other thing?

I have read some places that the engine will not start if there is no match between the cam an crank? My be only the other direction, since this is to not make crash ig the chain get over...?

I must check that there is good clearance between the piston and valves. 

Edited 15 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Today I bought this to control  the pressure / negative pressure in the crankcase. So I can adjust thing under controlled conditions.

Edited 17 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Good idea that, never seen anyone do that on here before.

Seems you have a good talent for playing with engines keep up the good work!

"Older plays better, but the toys are more expensive..." some says...

Sinde the 60-s I have to done things with engines and all things thats running, smoking and make noise,  in low budgets, since I newer have been rich on money! 

 

I Norway there is a lot of car that use to much oil. I can't mention name, because some of them has problem enough all ready. 

I find a good solution, I'll sell the solutions  to those who are struggling fore some money - multiplied by many cars and then I may be finally be rich? :$$$: If not I have to do something else....

:beer:

Edited 18 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Here is my backups solution: (if nothing else is working)...

Forget this if you think it is far off the beaten track ...

But here's my trick from the old days .:

You  can lathe new tracks in pistons and insert spacers on the upper rings, then be the engine as close as a potty. As spacers can use the old oil rings that are usually good enough, they bathe the oil and gets the not worn. Do not tell this trice to anyone as this is my secret tricks to better compression and density of cylinders! There was also little economy within the picture here, then new stamps cost approximately 165 pound per item. New spring set about 56 pound. About. 600 pound saved.

It has worked 100+ in old Volvo Engines I have overhauled.

 

I was careful to give a small clearance of 0.06 mm in the grooves against the springs. Used measure at intensively and locked stamped in chuksen with a long threaded rod in a transverse bolt in a softer material than a conventional cross bolt that is not so easy to drill in 

..

Edited 18 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

You are very brave. I wouldn't dare play with the design of an engine like that

It will be interesting to see the result! ?

 

Im still thinking! 

I will try the easiest way first. - Then deeper and deeper. 

 

The modern piston has a construction fault. Is is made for hard use, nearly racing. But in normal car as is driving carefully the oil will not go down as intended, I think. Thats why I will drill holes in the backside of the oil rings. 

Orginaly there is only two slots for the oil under the rings. And when the piston was very oily, so I think the cylinders get to much. 

I have bored eight 1,5 mm holes now, but I think i will go for 3 mm holes?

 

Im not sure that I will change the connection rod bearing upside to downside vest versa, since the upper part is harder than the lower part I have read? You can see it on the colors to. The lowest is darker.

I don't think is has big significance to reduse the oil flow in the connection rods.?

So new piston ring, honing cylinders, hole in pistons and a good regulatet PVC -system will do the job!? - I think...

 

My last backup is better oil, like some Castrol oil - GTX 10W40 or in word case : EDGE TITANIUM 10W60 If nothing works I vill go and do service on sewing machines or something else...?  

My be take the hole engine and put it in my hydraulic press and send it back to the factory!? - Flat packet, like IKEA products.. :think: 

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

is there a pcv valve on the pd130 vrs engine?

is there a pcv valve on the pd130 vrs engine?

 

There's no manifold vacuum for PCV on a turbo diesel which is why you have a separate vacuum pump.

I don't have turbo engine. Only a 3 syl. gasoline engine with 6 valves. i think I will find a plase to measure?

First I will try to measure on my 1.4 engine which is in a good condition. I will make it like this...

 

This is some special. You can't find anything about this in books, or some place else, I think?

 

This is research on a pressing problem... Im not sure if it work? The instrument is may be to grossly?

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

is there a pcv valve on the pd130 vrs engine?

Im not sure about that?...  But I think there is....

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Easter projects: 

I took one of the piston in the lathe to day, and make a 1,65 mm track, so I could get an extra spacer in, just for test. Only in syl. 2. You can also see the new holes under/back the oil-rings. 

Now I can see on the spark plugs how the condition in the sylinders/piston is.?

 

I also made a plug beside of the PCV-valve to control the pressure/vacuum on the backside/inside of the end cover. 5,5 mm for the tube and 8 mm treads.

My new instrument will tell me things, I believe? If it isn't to little precise?

I have put the pistons in, and something else, and the rest tomorrow I think. 

Edited 20 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

It can be a problem, that there is a problem in my opinion. Possible that VW and Mahle believed this well, but this is failing. Everyone can make mistakes:

 

 

There is a large opening towards piston rings. With full oil pressure against the piston pin it will creep out much oil there that will lubricate excessively much and worse it gets when the engine is a bit worn.

So this is a bad invention in terms of duration, in my opinion.

So I see that replacement pistons do not have this stupid gap with oil springs.

It confirms my suspicion that such pistons (bide top) are completely off course. Really oil falls upward if piston bolts are somewhat worn. With thin oil becomes clear river that flows upward. I should change the pistons, but this is a low economy project , and i hope all the other thing will make it to a good engine for some more kilometer?

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I had a bath Torx so I welded on a nut with a 22 mm.

Not super fine weld, but I just point welding and grinded. Strong enough I think, I will not use  100 Nm on it....

Should I regret, then Torx is retained inside the old nut I welded onI 

 

If I get time tomorrow, the engine will be ready?  :think:

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Engine started. It runs nicely and smoke no longer at idle. Notice any smoke under heavy load and engine brake, but that's expected with new piston springs. After running somekilometer, it was a bit smaller smoke, it was after all a lot of oil on the piston and cylinder during assembly.

Tomorrow I get driven a longer trip, which makes it well more custom. But I think it must have at least 1000 kilometer before it seals itself satisfactorily.

Meter reads about 0.4 bar at idle, ca.0,6 bar pretty driving and about 0.2 to 0.3 at about 100 -110 km / h. During heavy acceleration go vies rising up towards 0 bar. 

http://i64.tinypic.com/sztrfn.jpg [/ IMG]

 

  

Some rough reading, but I see clearly that there is sufficient vacuum inside the engine now.

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Seems like you've done well.