I hope the best.... Far inside the engine I can hear a minimal noise from the pistons or the pistons bolts. No scraping from the pistons rings in the cylinders. 

No problem for me. 

When it is cooled, I will after draw the top bolts. Just 1/8 turn, to be sure... 

 

Do any have any proceeder for this? 

Do someone do that? 

Or is it ok after one drawing?

Are you meaning the head bolts?

If so, there's no requirement to re-tighten them after running the engine. Info is at the bottom of this page.  30Nm, then 90°, then another 90°.

Thanks!

Yes that 30 Nm +90 + 90. 

Well, well, I took 1/8 degrees on them, and they was not that hard as I torque them when I mounted them. I think the gasket has going down a very little, so thats my extra safe, since Im not sure before I am sure in my head... My feeling was good to do that!

I will not risk water leak go oil leak, and take the hundreds of bolts and nuts out again! If something goes worn now, I will sell the it!

Quite happy now, but if the vacuum does not change in the acceleration after 100 mil, to ca. 0,02 bar,  I will choke the passage up the air filter a clue.

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Not bad:

After a trip in Sweden the spark plugs look like this: Quite normal...?

Before - picture under:

An obvious recovery, and now it is completely clean exhaust, as far as I can see. It should probably run a bit in more to make a full recovery.

Low oil consumption, but I have to travel 1000 kilometer before I make a note ...

 

So just a few kilometers to then I think it is quite nice ....

It now has good low-end torque and used 0.51 liters gasoline in the trip. Better low-end torque than before I opened the engine, which is due to setting of cam shaft and the valves are sharpened.

After only cylinder head repair was the same in tow but now without smoke. Slightly more driving then I think that it will go well.

Pending bit regarding adaptation of vacuum, as I have already increase max vacuum by approximately 50%. Shall I get any more sense out of it, I have to choke input air to the top. On mine Volvo Amazon I had a throttling to 3 mm nipple, and the original was 2 mm. No problem with that ...

Now Im a lucky man...

Edited 23 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

You will probably be burning oil soot out of the catalytic converter for a few journeys now that the oil burning is reduced. That should help everything, I think.

I hope the catalytic converter will hold for a long time. The little noise from inside engine has gone away. I thing that was the piston bolts that need some oil. 

Now I have good hope, an i will keep the "super car" for some time, may be a year?  

To day I will put a 2 - 3 mm drizzle inside the tube from the air filter to get at little more vacuum in the crank case.

I will try to get 0,1 - 0,15 bar vacuum?

 

Im thinking of to safe the catalytic and get the oil consumption as low as possible.

 

After 400 km no I have used 0,1 l oil - about 1 mm on the oil pin. 

- Then times better!

This i a rough measure, but gives me an indication.

 

More precise result will come at 1000 km and 2000 km.

 

Good already......

 

 

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

The theory behind my extra 1/8 turn on the head bolts is that the aluminuíum will expand a few hundreds mm after heating and cooling  x times, examples. 10 warmings. Then the gasket get some hundreds go millimeter thinner, and the pressure will be lower.

 

Whit 1/8 turns the press use will be stable and it can safe the gasket. I always do that in Volvo-engines, and was always doing this at Fiat engines of many years ago to prevent gasket blow! In Fiat is was necessary to do that, because the gaskets was unsafe on Fiat 600, 850, 127,125, 124 1800, 2000 and 2300 ccm.

Form the 60´s. 

We also had to rub the head on a iron plate with sand, oil and white spirit to get better friction to not to get the gasket to glide. It was extra important in tuned engines.

 

On that engines we don't have problems with gaskets. But we used torque wrench and the available torque.

I did loosen the bolts a little before, since they often fasten...

Here on Fabia we don't have available torque, thats why i calculated the pressure on a wrench to 1/8 round extra. Anyway this is a safe thing to do!

Nessesary or not? What ever you mean!

It is not normal to do that today, so the safety is not that good i think. May be the gaskets is now? In not sure...? 

Sinse Im not sure, I will do it. Im not sure before Im sure ....

 

Take this experience as a background and learning, and trough if away if you don't like it....

Modern people mean may be some thing else?

God easter alle off you! Here is my car:

 

 

- Also from VP Autoparts in Sweden where I by a lot off parts...

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Some goodis from yesterday event:

On Elmi-utstillingen, Custom Motor Show, Jønkøbing yesterday.

Glad I cam the day before, since there was 100 000 visitors.

Her er noen godbiter. Sparer noen til magasinet...

Custom:

 

 

Ladies on tour:

 

 

Nice amerikan car:

 

 

PV og Amazon before varnish:

 

 

Engine to the Fabia?

 

 

ACM-head: - looks good... The car is like my sons, but he has a blue/grey color.

 

 

My car.. - nearly - my is 5 years newer but has the same color:

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I don't think your extra 1/8th of a turn will be any problem. Glad to hear things are going well, thanks for keeping us updated.

Happy Easter to you too.

Glad to hear that my madness is accepted. Have a nice easter you to!

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

A little more about Fabia engine:

I put a choke/drozzle in the supply hose from the air filter in a conduction time today.

11 mm outside, and 1.5 mm interior.

It increased the vacuum to 0.17 bar by engine braking, 0.15 bar at idle and 0,10 - 0.12 bar during normal driving to 100 km/t.

 

(Before: 0,04 bar ved tomgang, ca.0,06 bar ved pen kjøring og ca. 0,02-0.03 ved ca 100 + km/t.

Perfect.... -- tror jeg...

Less upward the cylinders I hope??

Perfect! 

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

 

A little more about Fabia engine:

I put a choke/drozzle in the supply hose from the air filter in a conduction time today.

11 mm outside, and 1.5 mm interior.

 

It increased the vacuum to 0.17 bar by engine braking, 0.15 bar at idle and 0,10 - 0.12 bar during normal driving to 100 km/t.

 

(Before: 0,04 bar ved tomgang, ca.0,06 bar ved pen kjøring og ca. 0,02-0.03 ved ca 100 + km/t.

Perfect.... -- tror jeg...

Less upward the cylinders I hope??

Perfect! 

 

A little more about Fabia engine:

I put a choke/drozzle in the supply hose from the air filter in a conduction time today.

 

Correction: 11 mm outside, and 2.5 mm interior.

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Hi again! 

Do any know how much oil I have to fill if the level is in the middle of the hatched area?

And how much oil is there between top and button level in the hatched area, to be more specific?

 

I have been driven about 700 kilometer, and the levels is a little over the middle in the hatched area on the oil pin.

It is to early to get accurate measure, but the consumption seems to be more stabile after some kilometer driving?

 

The vacuum is no quite stabile on 0,1 bar vacuum. 

I will may be adjust it to 0,2 bar vacuum to get less oil up along cylinders? 

Some problems with that?

 

The original vacuum valve on the breather is only to reguate the maximum vacuum and have no effect in normal driving. It is regulating over 0,25 vacuum, but if the tube between air filter andy the top of the engine is open, it will not regulate.

Thats the reason why no one have positive oil consumption with a new valve, that some VW dealers have down to get the consumption down. I don't know what Skoda dealers have done?

I hve seen some dealers deliver a box of oil in the storage room!!

What do you say Wino?

I got an additional good surprise at the weekend, when I researched more on the vacuum in the crankcase.

The ventilation is great importance for oil consumption, I have found out.

Fabian with 1.2 liter engine (optimized), I got the consumption down from of about 1 liter per 100 mil to 0.3 liters per mil. Here I made several interventions, like switching piston rings and valve guides with seals. I also increased the vacuum in the crankcase to 0.15 bar. But I was satisfied me that? No, not quite.

So this weekend I increased the vacuum to the double - to 0.25 to 0.30 bar (depending on engine load) by inserting an extra spring in the PCV valve. In addition to restricting the air from the air filter to the top cover to jet/drozzle to 2.5 mm, and a small jet/drozzle on the air to the manifold om 8 mm. The latter is only one security to avoid consumption by leak in filler cap.

After 35 mile drive in the weekend there was no sign of consumption on the dipstick! : D

- Further halved or less, so now I can sell your car safe!

The theories behind these experiments should I take sometime later if anyone can bear to hear more about this?

- Briefly, some of the combustion pressure coming into the crankcase and create pulsating overpressure of step with inntakeair for each cylinder. Thereby, the oil pressure in the cylinders of crankcase at the same time that there is negative pressure in the cylinders in the intake stroke. And the oil trapped there and being burned instead to lubricate the engine as intentional.

I believe that this issue is bigger on a 3-cylinder engine, but can not prove it, then I have not measured pulses. 

But I will do that later.

But I have noted that the four-cylinder engines are not as prone to oil consumption.

But modern engines with oil splash on the pistons under - oil channels in areas and dies with openings to the oil springs and inadequate drainage behind oil springs etc. May have problems anyway, I believe.

Heard almost 100 examples of it ....

Automotive is not progressed far enough ahead to say the least ...

Don't ask me how many hours I have spent to figure this out!

Just to check, you're referring to Scandinavian miles in all cases above? 10km?  Your figures make more sense with this assumption.

 

Everywhere else a mile is only 1.6km.

 

My partner's 3-cylinder (at 225000km) doesn't seem to use any oil really, maybe one 100ml top-up between changes at 6000 (non-Scandi) miles/10000km?

Edited 6 June, 201610 yr by Wino

Yes thats right. 

Now I use about/near 0,1 liter on 1000 km theoretic  1600 miles?

England is different anywhere else in Europe use metric, not only Scandinavian.

Edited 6 June, 201610 yr by Torbo

Only Scandinavia has 1 mile = 10km, look it up, I'm not inventing this.

 

See "International Mile" in this article.

Edited 6 June, 201610 yr by Wino

Germany to?

Germany to?

As far as I know, they only use kilometres.

 

Anyway, the main thing is that you've improved your car, well done!

Edited 6 June, 201610 yr by Wino

A mil beträgt 10 kilometer.

Miles or kilometer - I´m satisfired. 

I´ll try to use km next time...

Im still wondering why my engine was so bad? - since other inside here don't have similar problems?

- or not?

Edited 6 June, 201610 yr by Torbo

I drive 700 km to day with my other Fabia 1.4 2000 model with on oil consumption. 

Better engine? I think so....

 

More easy to serve also... 5,1 liter /100 km exactly the same (0,5) as the 1,2 engine - funny.... Normaly the 1,4 use 0,2 - 0,5 more...

I drive economic as usual... 0,1 more to be exact...

Less consumption should be when engine load is around 70...80%; too little engines usually is overloaded and drinks more / big engines are under loaded- and drinks more...as far as I remember...in general :-)

My 1.4L 74kW petrol Fabia eats 5.5-6L/100km when half loaded on highway at 90...100km/h. Normal city drive 6.5-7.5L/100km, traffic jam- not more than 10L/100km.

Interesting!

Small engines is not the best, I also think! High loaded the most of the time...