We had a 1.6 at work which is 4 cylinder but build the same way ie alloy block with thin liners cast into it. I tried to rehone it with a stone honing tool and on the first pass it left a large area halfway down the bores untouched because the bore was wider at that point. I cant remember what it measured now but it was way past what honing would fix.

We had a 1.6 at work which is 4 cylinder but build the same way ie alloy block with thin liners cast into it. I tried to rehone it with a stone honing tool and on the first pass it left a large area halfway down the bores untouched because the bore was wider at that point. I cant remember what it measured now but it was way past what honing would fix.

 

A flexi ball hone is necessary for glaze-busting modern tackle due to the barrel profile of the bore.

I will measure more....

 

Im pretty sure tree is not problem with the head and valves. i was very exactly:

Interessting with the 1,2 liter engine. Her we have to adjust the valves ones, and the hydraulic lifters will do the rest.

In 1,4 engine and many others it is possible til adjust. 

  

We had a 1.6 at work which is 4 cylinder but build the same way ie alloy block with thin liners cast into it. I tried to rehone it with a stone honing tool and on the first pass it left a large area halfway down the bores untouched because the bore was wider at that point. I cant remember what it measured now but it was way past what honing would fix.

I don't like what i hear! I will not hope that!  If so I'm in trouble....

A flexi ball hone is necessary for glaze-busting modern tackle due to the barrel profile of the bore.

 

I've never come across this before. What's the purpose of the barrel profile?

I've never come across this before. What's the purpose of the barrel profile?

 

To reduce friction as the piston expands when hot, this allows the running clearance to be very tight and it keeps compression high during the important part of the stroke, it also allows more room for a thicker oil film to develop in the lower part of the bore keeping the piston skirt from scuffing as it falls yet allowing the oil scraper ring to clean the bore as it passes.

To reduce friction as the piston expands when hot, this allows the running clearance to be very tight and it keeps compression high during the important part of the stroke, it also allows more room for a thicker oil film to develop in the lower part of the bore keeping the piston skirt from scuffing as it falls yet allowing the oil scraper ring to clean the bore as it passes.

 

Interesting, cheers.

Why I hone: It will provide faster adaptation to the new rings.

Edited 10 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Checked the engine a bit more today. Found some ovality cylinders and some large opening in the ring grooves.

Took a little fine honing so the new piston springs get good adaptation.

Checked out other possibilities for consumption. The oil separator in the end cap was open, but there was something black sludge that was removed.

Council for the pistons have a rough smear channel up to piston bolts. There is a 2 mm hole in the upper crank bearings. It should be reduced to 1 mm.

Reverses only bearings upside down and drills a new hole. Bearing shells were in soft steel and bearing metal, so it should be okay to drill.

Found just not 1 mm bor tonight, then I must surely look more or buy?

New bearing shells should I probably also have also?

There should be no need for large oil flow up to the pistons, it just fills up the oil springs. Volvo B16 and -18 / -20 does not have such luxury and there keeps cross bolts very long, far more than the 100 000-200 000 km this car have left.

Some gains in oil pressure reservoir becomes too.

 

Still believe that there is a slight overpressure in the crankcase and here I shall reduce the pressure by inserting an extra spring in the PCV valve. So I do not have to make holes in the valve or create some kind of bypass.

--- pictures later....

 

 

Cylinder wear was on average around 3 hundredths, and a small ovality. The annular groove was measured with a used stamp ebb was 0.9 mm. With new springs will probably shrink this to about 0,3- 0,4 mm - which is quite ok.

 

With these measures it should be a good givinst in reduced oil consumption.

Guessing / hoping that I get it down to 2 to 3 dl / 100 mil. It should suffice - I'm at least happy with it.

 

Trying first with the same oil as the last, semisynthetic, it is only a minor effect, I must resort to other oil.

some poor power here so images will have to wait ...

 

So must I obtain a torque on the 8 mm bolts to the advice that has fine pitch thread?

This is the quality steel, so momentum will probably be about 3-4 Nm.?

3.5 with Loctite if I do not come closer.

There are stamp Audi on them, so maybe I can find something the matter?

Ideas?

 

Images must wait because of bad network. 

Edited 12 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

Only a thou wear in 80000km, that's nothing to worry about, should have measured the ring gaps Torbo to see how much they had worn as well.

The ring gap i 0,9 mm, to much I think. I have order new rings. 0,2-0,3 mm is ok I think? 

The wear is ok, but to oval.

I

I don't think the factory would like to show how bad the construction is, since thy say the bottom end is not to open! No stopper for the bearing shell - example...

The oil separator in the end part was easy to get out and clean.

Edited 13 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

That ring gap is much too big, should be 0.25 when new and no more than 0.5, the rings have worn really badly. You can just scratch up the bore with a ball hone and fit new rings and the engine should be as good as new. I see there is some debris embedded in the shell which suggests an oil change got missed somewhere and might explain the ring wear.

May be its a big part of the reason for oil combustion? 

I have a good hope for this engine. I was thinking of to change pistons, but I think my exercises inside this engine now will go for 100 000 km +.... more.

May be its a big part of the reason for oil combustion? 

I have a good hope for this engine. I was thinking of to change pistons, but I think my exercises inside this engine now will go for 100 000 km +.... more.

 

I agree, no need to change the pistons, the ring wear alone would certainly affect oil consumption, I suspect that the steel bore liner is much harder than the rings which is why there is so little bore wear, remember that you cannot accurately measure the bore without fitting a deck plate anyway.

I agree, no need to change the pistons, the ring wear alone would certainly affect oil consumption, I suspect that the steel bore liner is much harder than the rings which is why there is so little bore wear, remember that you cannot accurately measure the bore without fitting a deck plate anyway.

Thanks! Im agree... But what do you mean by deck plate?

Thanks! Im agree... But what do you mean by deck plate?

 

http://blog.amsperformance.com/2010/01/12/ams-product-release-ams-4g634g64-torquehoning-plate/

http://blog.amsperformance.com/2010/01/12/ams-product-release-ams-4g634g64-torquehoning-plate/

Interesting! I have never use thing like that. I have only honed cylinders. I have used special work shop to do boring. I have seen some boring processing but newer tools like this! 

I this a modern thing or only for special engines?

All modern engines are bored this way.

Good!

I remain baffled as to how the oil went from full to empty on the dipstick in a mere 100km. If it was using that much oil it would surely have been belching tonnes of blue smoke out of the exhaust?

I remain baffled as to how the oil went from full to empty on the dipstick in a mere 100km. If it was using that much oil it would surely have been belching tonnes of blue smoke out of the exhaust?

Im wondering... Now I see that i have write wrong... It shall be 1000 km or 100 mil! As you says thats 100 km is extreme! 

Sorry about my missing 0 her! 

 

But it is to much anyway! But I can se "light in the tunnel" now. 

I have altså thought about to make a bypass from bottom to the top on the engine? - In the middle of the engine? May be "a shot in blind"? But newer say newer?...

You newer know? Anyway this engine is a experiment engine for me, if I miss I don't miss to much... ??

I have another Fabia with 1.4 engine that is 4x better. 

The Scandinavian Mile, which is ten kilometres, confuses a lot of the rest of the world, where a mile is about 1.6km.

 

I've looked quite hard for any info about the rod bolt torque, but found nothing.  You'll just have to go by experience, and comparison with similar size/grade bolts in similar applications I think.

Yes we have another mile in Europe, outside England. Sometime difficult...

I have come to 3,3 - 3,4 Nm in the bolts? And Locktite.... 

 

My be I will com to a more precise, may be from Audis manual?

 

With som new parts - piston rings, honing the cylinders and less oil up to the pistons for crank, stronger feather inside the PCV-valve I have good hope for this engine.

If the effect is to little, I will use better/thicker oil.

 

Im still thinking of at bypass over the PVC-valve for not to get there pressure lower in the engine.. 

 

Another rare thing is that the exhaust is not blue, but grey? May be the catalyst change the exhaust color?

I think I get an improvement in oil consumption of Fabiaen, but I'll do to etiquette to improve conditions inside and out.

As supply to that mentioned I will dril 8  holes in the pistons behind oil springs so it does not build up oil there. The oil drain behind the feathers and runs down the inside of the pistons. There are only two drains there, and they manage well the job the first 100 000 km, but here I must do something more here.

Four of the holes to be drilled in near the piston pins, so they get oil from above in addition to it being thrown around inside the engine.

I think I get an improvement in oil consumption of Fabiaen, but I'll do to etiquette to improve conditions inside and out.

In tilelgg to that mentioned I drilling holes in the pistons behind oil springs so it does not build up oil there. The oil drain behind the feathers and runs down the inside of the pistons. There are only two drains there, and they manage well the job the first 100 000 km, but here I must do something.

Four of the holes to be drilled in the piston bolts so they get oil from above in addition to it being thrown around inside the engine.

 

Thereby I release oil supply via crankshaft.

The trick for extra oil drainage has been used successfully on modern engines with high oil consumption.

The lubrication of the cross bolts are separate experiment, to reduce the supply of oil upward.

- There is obviously enough oil flying up and on to the compression room.

Possible I lowers compression nothing to reduce the craving of engine braking. If I go down from 10.3: 1, for example. 10: 1 may mean a little less suction so that the PCV valve does not close so easy ....

Makes me not so easy!

Thereby I release oil supply via crankshaft.

The trick for extra oil drainage has been used successfully on modern engines with high oil consumption.

The lubrication of the cross bolts are separate experiment, to reduce the supply of oil upward.

- There is obviously enough oil flying up and on to the compression room.

Possible I lowers compression nothing to reduce the craving of engine braking. If I go down from 10.3: 1, for example. 10: 1 may mean a little less suction so that the PCV valve does not close so easy .... May be Il loose 1-2 hp with that?

Makes me not that easy!

Edited 14 March, 201610 yr by Torbo

I foud this to day:

Main bearing  6,5 + 90 grader. Crank bearing 3 Nm + 90 grader. 3 syl vw diesel ... May be I can find out if the bolts are the same? 

I make sense...