1.4 8v mpi oil tappety sound

[XadowFab]

When i got the car the engine was very smooth and the guy told me that a service oil was made after a week it started a tappety noise intermiting especialy when cold. So i decided to make another oil change i used 15-40 semi syntetich oil and the problem went away. Now after 4 weeks the tappety noise started again. Oil om dipstick still golden water is fine and oil cap is clean just some clear condesation drops.

What oil is the best? Did i use the wrong oil?

Or the valves need a setting?. I found a guide how to do it.

The engine runs fine even when the tappety sound is on it does not stall or missfire.

I am from malta weather is always pretty warm here never below 10 deegrese celcius.

Thanks in advance.

[KenONeill]

The tappet noise is probably due to the hydraulic tappets not taking up their full clearance when the engine is cold. It usually only happens when the engine is about due for an oil change.

 

Since that clearly isn't the case here, we need more information, particularly about car mileage and service history. There are possibilities, but they're too expensive to do on an "it might be this" basis.

[XadowFab]

It only has 95k km on the clock. What oil should i use? Semi or full synt?

[Alexandru]

I'm using Liqui Moly 10W40 on my 1.4 mpi 8v. IIRC, It's a semi. The engine has about 200.000km on the clock, not sure if are genuine or not. IMHO, the oil should meet the specs required (VAG 505.01) and if replaced somewhere between 7-10.000km along with the filter it should be just fine.

Edited 9 March, 2016 by Alexandru

[XadowFab]

I replaced it a month ago and the problem was solved but recently it started doing it again.

[XadowFab]

I replaced it a month ago and the problem was solved but recently it started doing it again.

can this problem be related to bad timing? like for example the timing chain slipped a thoot or something....

[TMB]

can this problem be related to bad timing? like for example the timing chain slipped a thoot or something....

 

They are a duplex timing chain. Never heard of one slipping on an MPI.

[XadowFab]

5 minutes ago I started her up and the tappet noise was gone! -_- I cant understand maybe I used wrong oil? I used carlube 15w40 semi synt

[Alexandru]

Can you post a clip with the engine running so we can hear it ? Maybe it's something else.

[Updown789]

These engines are ****, they always rattle lol

[KenONeill]

It only has 95k km on the clock. What oil should i use? Semi or full synt?

Ok, that probably eliminates the oil pump, but not a blocked pickup strainer or feed to one or more tappets. This is why I asked about service history (particularly in terms of how often the oil has been changed; it's advisable to change it on a time basis if you do lots of short trips, and Malta is not a big place.

 

5 minutes ago I started her up and the tappet noise was gone! -_- I cant understand maybe I used wrong oil? I used carlube 15w40 semi synt

The viscosity is in the range required (particularly since you live somewhere warm) but I don't know if it's a VAG 505.01 oil or not.

[Alexandru]

This is my 1.4 mpi engine (ATZ) which has been through a lot, with about 10.000km old Liqui Moly MOS2 10W40 (next week is booked to be serviced, of course). The car is from 2000, with 200.000 km on the clock ( but with no fsh, so I can't tell for sure if genuine or not). I've never had any internal engine parts repaired or replaced so far (no timing chain or so). Also, can't tell what has been done by the previous owner.

 

Edited 10 March, 2016 by Alexandru

[TMB]

^ Doesn't sound too bad Alex.

[Torbo]

I think You have to adjust the valve cleranse. The ground adjust is 0,2 mm. I adjust mine to 0,3 mm to be sure. I had to turn the adjust bolts more than one turns. I had a little more, some time much sound than you. But after adjusting the engine goes very quiet.

 

A Skoda mechanical  man in Sweden said that they should be adjusted every 60 000 km. My Fabia 1,4 car has gone 100 000 km.

I follow the instructions and use a wood bit to push down the hydraulic lifter and then adjust won half warm engine.

Thats why i use 0,3 mm to be sure. The clearanse was near 1 mm i think? to much for the hydraulic.

 

Worth a try?

Edited 17 March, 2016 by Torbo

[Alexandru]

Should I do the same?

[Torbo]

Should I do the same?

I will recommend that! It is may bo not done before.... 

No parts, only a little job...

 

My motor runs very quietly now. I was near to change all the lifters, but no I saved much money and have a soft running engine.

[Alexandru]

Good to know! Nice tip!

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[Alexandru]

It seems that I will have to re-seal the oil sump. 2nd time this year. Why did these engines come without a gasket for the sump? I hate it. 

[Torbo]

It seems that I will have to re-seal the oil sump. 2nd time this year. Why did these engines come without a gasket for the sump? I hate it. 

I also like better paper, rubber or cork gasket. Bu on this engine with floating gasket I let the "glue" dry some  minutes until you can feel it a little faster, but not to the hardening. Then I put the bolts in.. Then yo get at better thickness on the gasket and more safe sealing.