Have a look here:

http://ows-cdn.tecdoc.net/lesjofors/home.jsp?server=6&time=23/3/2016-21:33:33#89d2e9cde58a1c2f618c46e22cfafe04

Assuming the link works...

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thanks trundelnut link just reverts to landng page.

 

Looks like the part number on the label 4095080 is not the correct one - according to the Lesjofors site it should be 4095095 which has been superceded by 4085719 (EAN 7394410115564).

 

 

LESJÖFORS Coil Spring

Found via Trade number: 22722743

Trade numbers: 22722743

Fitting Position: Front Axle

Supersedes: 

- 4095095

 

So looks like part number I actually need is 4085719...

thanks trundelnut link just reverts to landng page.

Looks like the part number on the label 4095080 is not the correct one - according to the Lesjofors site it should be 4095095 which has been superceded by 4085719 (EAN 7394410115564).

LESJÖFORS Coil Spring

Found via Trade number: 22722743

Trade numbers: 22722743 Fitting Position: Front Axle

Supersedes:

- 4095095

So looks like part number I actually need is 4085719...

The one I tried to link to was listed as being specifically for the Scout. I think it's the one you have found.

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Thanks trundlenut.

Looks like a trip back to GSF to see if they can get them or refund if not and then source them from somewhere else

 

Means that I probably won't have replacements before the weekend now....

Its best to replace the hub bolts if you are removing the drive shafts as they are stretch bolts, although it can be done without removing the shafts.

Spray all the nuts with wd40 or something similar few days prior to doing the job as bolts can get stuck with corrosion.

Thanks @willydog

Need to get nuts for the top of the strut 'piston', dealer forgot to include them even though I asked for them, will get a couple of driveshaft nuts as I'm guessing it's more of a struggle to get the strut out if the driveshaft stays in place.

 

If the driveshaft stays connected, what actually needs to be released to get enough movement to remove the strut?

Ball joint, droplink and anti-roll bar?

to do it without removing the driveshafts make sure:

 

Both sides of the front end are in the air (via axel stands)

Disconnect the drop links attached to the shocks on both sides (so they are not fighting against each other to get max clearance)

Undo the 3 ball joint nuts and press the complete wishbone downwards

Remove the pinch bolt

Make sure ABS / Pad leads / Xenon level sensor (if you have xenons) are disconnected as these can get damaged

Insert the spreader tool to open up the hub

Then give the hub a tap with hammer to free the shock and with some help with someone pressing down on the hub you should be able to get the shock out

Then undo the 3 mount nuts and your shock can be removed

 

 

here is a guide for a golf mk6 which is basically fitted with the same components

 

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8095

Edited 24 March, 201610 yr by wiilydog

Thanks again @willydog for the useful tips/info

 

The Lesjofors springs were indeed wrong and GSF parts system doesn't link the correct Lesjofors part (4095095 --> superseded by 4085719) to my car.

 

Ended up going back to main dealer and managed to get springs from them (should be delivered today).

So now have all OEM parts.

Just hope I don't need to replace any of the ball joints...as I don't have them.

 

Intending to do the job tomorrow...most probably in the rain.

hi guys

 

started the job of changing the front springs.

 

Decided to choose the option of removing the driveshaft so I could do one side at a time in isolation.

Overall it's been and still is problematic. Still not completed one side yet.

• Had a struggle removing the lower drop link nut, badly corroded
• One of the ball joint nut sheared off and don't have/can't get a replacement until tomorrow
• Strut pinch bolt  seized but finally got it out

No matter how much I try, I cannot get the strut out of the hub/wheel bearing housing.

Inserted chisel opened up the gap, then tried various other chisels screwdrivers etc including anti-seize compound - still no luck

 

Do any of you have any tips on getting the strut out?

At the moment the car is off the road and kinda need it for work Tuesday, so any (constructive) suggestions welcomed.

 

Thanks in advance

Did you use the proper spreader tool for opening up the hub? Or trying grinding up a bolt so you can slot in and expand the hub.

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by wiilydog

Would someone kindly confirm that both the Scout and the 4x4 share the same springs and shock absorbers .

 

Many thanks

Would someone kindly confirm that both the Scout and the 4x4 share the same springs and shock absorbers .

Many thanks

AFAIK, yes.

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Thanks again @willydog

 

Don't have proper tool and only working from Haynes manual which says cold chisel should do the job - obviously not in my case.

 

BTW I have now removed the complete hub/strut assembly and can see that there is a tongue on the strut guess to stop the strut turning - will try the bolt idea.

How far does the hub need to spread?

Thanks again @willydog

Don't have proper tool and only working from Haynes manual which says cold chisel should do the job - obviously not in my case.

BTW I have now removed the complete hub/strut assembly and can see that there is a tongue on the strut guess to stop the strut turning - will try the bolt idea.

How far does the hub need to spread?

I used an 3/8 to 1/4" adaptor, which was just big enough. But it wasn't very stable. The proper tool is elliptical.

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Thanks @trundlenut

 

 

...guess the car has got the better of me today....now that I have removed the complete assembly I don.t need to split the hub and remove the strut do I as I've already got access to the spring/top mount/bearing etc.

I've measured the bolt I used and it measures 10mm on the widest point. I used both spreader tool and bolt as if can't open it wider enough you have problems getting the strut back in. I think I used a 14mm head bolt and grinded two sides down so it just slips in the gap and turning the bolt so it expands the hub.

Edited 27 March, 201610 yr by wiilydog

Great thanks @willydog

Clearly my chisel etc was no where near - didn't realise that it needed to be spread that much - I'll put that down to lack of inexperience/knowledge

Did you view a few youtube vids on the process?  Always makes it much easier - there are plenty for Golf which is the same process

No I didn't unfortunately. just read the haynes manual which I think didn't help in terms of removing the strut.

 

On another note, the new driveshaft bolt is not the same as the one I've removed.

The old one is a 27mm hex nut with a thick washer, whereas the new one is the more familiar dodecagon (?) with a built in collar.

The thread is the same and so is the thread length.

 

Does anyone know what this should be torqued to?

The original one was quite easy to loosen and then later remove (2ft power bar), so don't want to over tighten it.

 

Haynes manual gives 2 quite different values depending on whether the face of the bolt is ribbed or not.

Edited 28 March, 201610 yr by nidgep

70 nm + 90° for new 12 sided type bolt, note vehicle should not be standing on its wheels for tightening the bolt

Thanks again @willydog - based on how easy it was to release the hub bolt  - that's what I've done 52 ft/lbs then 90 degrees while car still up on stands

 

Job is now done and car road tested.

Seems OK to me, and overall is quieter over bumps etc. (probably as would be expected)

No steering pull and stays straight under braking.

In the end fitted 2 ball joints as well as drop links.

 

Now need to get wheel alignment checked.

Anyone used ABP motorsport in Shavington nr Crewe?

 

Also thanks to everyone else who contributed - much appreciated