im having a problem right now, my car is overheating and the temp gauge is going to 100 ish temperatures. i have changed the coolant temp sensor, new thermostat fitted also and the radiator cap was changed about a year and a half ago with a genuine one. now im thinking that the radiator is on its way out. i removed the thermostat and im running without it to prevent overheating. but even without the thermostat its going to 100ish temperatures, but it doesnt exceed 100. my question is how can i know if its the radiator or something else? thanks

 

 

You claimed in this recent topic that you solved the problem yourself by connecting "somehow" the coolant temp connector in reverse. I called that a lie because it is phisically impossible. You didn't admit it but failed to produce any proof. Why? Simply because it can't be any proof. Now the lie is evident. You didn't solve anything.

 

I don't do that usually, but you, sir, are an ungrateful liar. You don't deserve any help from anyone in here. You proved that multiple times in the past. Even for me, that I have a lot of patience with people, you are a total waste of time.

 

You don't deserve to be helped.

Yeah i know im sorry what can i tell you more ? Are you a perfect person ? Because you only insult people and if you dont want to helpe dont i didnt ask for your opinion

You claimed in this recent topic that you solved the problem yourself by connecting "somehow" the coolant temp connector in reverse. I called that a lie because it is phisically impossible. You didn't admit it but failed to produce any proof. Why? Simply because it can't be any proof. Now the lie is evident. You didn't solve anything.

 

I don't do that usually, but you, sir, are an ungrateful liar. You don't deserve any help from anyone in here. You proved that multiple times in the past. Even for me, that I have a lot of patience with people, you are a total waste of time.

 

You don't deserve to be helped.

 

"....a total waste of time."??? Really, and yet you spent the time and effort to compose this little tantrum.

 

Time that would have been better spent scratching your head over your (very easily solved) condensation issue.

Rainbow fire can you help please ? Im out of ideas. Till now i replaced the radiator, coolant temp sensor, radiator cap. The thermostat is fairly new and working i tested it.there is only one problem i think. I checked for resistance in the coolant temp sensor and all results were 0resistance or nearly zero. Does this mean my new temp sensor is faulty ? Because my temp gauge is rising till like 103 degrees before the fan kicks in

Ok start at the beginning, 

1) what model felicia, age etc

2) what symptoms did you start to try and fix?

3)what parts have you replaced and with new or second hand parts?

the cooling system is pretty basic on these, you have a water pump to circulate the coolant, a thermostat to regulate the temperature, a rad to cool it and an expansion tank with pressure cap to keep the cooling system at a set pressure for efficiency etc.

ok the temp gauge will show over 100 before the fan kicks in, the cooling system is pressurised so it doesn't boil at 100, the fan switch is in the bottom of the radiator and switches at around 92 from memory, 92 at the bottom of the rad is going to be a lot more at the head so that sounds alright so far.

when you are driving along what temp does the gauge say?

Thanks for the reply. Its a 1.3lx (carb model) 1999 felicia. First i had a temp gauge that wasnt moving at all and i bought another coolant temp sensor and now its heating up but first it gets to like between the half way mark and the 3/4 mark then radiator kicks in and cools down to be almost at half way mark. Then it goes up at like 100 degrees again and cools and repetition... now the parts i replaced were:

Fairly new thermostat

New radiator

New coolant temp sensor

New coolant temp switch

New coolant

New radiator cap

These were all bought new.

When im driving along it stays in the 90-100 degree zone but it stays more in like 97-100 degrees.

Also i want to add that my radiator switch has 68/82 degrees atamped on it

"....a total waste of time."??? Really, and yet you spent the time and effort to compose this little tantrum.

 

Time that would have been better spent scratching your head over your (very easily solved) condensation issue.

I could live without your constant off-topic arguing. I got it long time ago, you are the leader of my haters. Looking constantly for trouble and not having anything valuable to add. Rest assured, I know exactly who you are and what is your agenda. It is too obvious. Learn to live without hate and without feeling obligated to suffer hypocritically for the well being of third parties. There are many people that appreciated my help and if you don't like it and you would want me out of this forum, that is your problem. If you are so knowledgeable, feel free to insert decent on-topic, correct, specific advice. I will continue doing the same (except for this OP) whether you like it or not.

Edited 16 March, 201610 yr by RicardoM

Also i am using the yellow coolant temp sensor

I could live without your constant off-topic arguing. I got it long time ago, you are the leader of my haters. Looking constantly for trouble and not having anything valuable to add. Rest assured, I know exactly who you are and what is your agenda. It is too obvious. Learn to live without hate and without feeling obligated to suffer hypocritically for the well being of third parties. There are many people that appreciated my help and if you don't like it and you would want me out of this forum, that is your problem. If you are so knowledgeable, feel free to insert decent on-topic, correct, specific advice. I will continue doing the same (except for this OP) whether you like it or not.

 

Ricky, dear boy, you quite happily chimed up with your off-topic tantrum, so expecting others to do as you say, is fairly much a mute point. Your usual arrogant strutting style makes me laugh every time I read your posts. No-one asked you to reply to Jonnycilia's post, but as you are under the delusion that this forum is actually called "Ask Ricky", I can see why you'd take the time and effort out of your busy day to do so.

 

If you'd like me to constantly go off-topic after every post you make, I have the time to do so, just so you'd understand and have relevance to your inane off-topic drivvel. You know nothing of me, boy, and rest assured, if there was an agenda, I could put it in front of you, and you'd still miss it. I do like your "learn to live without hate", brilliant coming from an arrogant, preening, child. You make the children I have to deal with every day, look exceptionally adult.

 

You don't *have* to reply to every single post that is made on here, unless you really have such an ego that requires it, but I would have no trouble in believing that.

 

It is amusing watching you run around trying to solve a very simple problem, and reply to suggestions in that arrogant, strutting manner that you have made your own.

 

 

 

Your next words will be as comical as your last little tantrum.......

Also i want to add that my radiator switch has 68/82 degrees atamped on it

 

Was the radiator switch new with the radiator?

No i bought it seperately

How do you know its actually 100?

Im guessing because its half way between 90 and 110

Today i noticed something. The car warmed up in just 3 minutes from stone cold ! Usually it takes about 7 minutes before even getting to 70

Water pump, surely?

The pump is not leaking i checked. I donno other symptoms for water pump what other symptoms would there be ?

Overheating.

The pump is not leaking i checked. I donno other symptoms for water pump what other symptoms would there be ?

While the drive pulley on the pump might be turning, the impellor(bit that is in contact with the coolant) may not be spinning at the same rpm as drive pulley.

But why does it heat up so fast when stone cold in the morning ?

What i mean is how do you know the gauge is correct?.

If the heater is pushing hot air then the waterpump is working.

If its not loosing water from the pressure cap i think your gauge is reading high but.

When the engine is cold, remove the pressure cap carefully then remove the temp sender and let coolant flow out of the temp sender hole for a couple of seconds, refit sender and check the coolant level is ok and fit pressure cap. This should allow any air pockets to bleed out.

If you have access to an infra red thermometer you could see exactly how hot it is.

I think i found the source of the problem.

Recently i have bought a second hand instrument cluster because my odometer wasnt working. I dont know which model it was from all i know is that it has the clockvinstead of rev meter(mine has rev meter) i installed the speedo and temp gauge in my cluster. Can this have less resistance because it was a different model thus the hifher the temperature ? Because now i fitted the original gauge that was in my cluster and all is back to normal.

Heater is working great nice hot air from it when warmed up