Hi

Can anyone tell me roughly the dimensions of the speaker thats in the back of the instrument cluster. VRS 1.9 2004 plus voltage etc.

Cheers.

I just bought anther cluster for the speaker, but replacing the speaker means dismantling both, taking off the needles without making a **** of it, desoldering both, and resoldering back in place. Am now looking into just replacing the cluster over next weekend when I am not working. Still don't remember agreeing to a) clean a driveway on Easter Saturday or b.) Do a run to Haydock on Easter Sunday. Grrr.

Just need to find full instructions on coding the new cluster and the keys, I think I need to contact a dealer with some codes to get a pin number to unlock stuff on both clusters, then Swap them over and key in the new info and the milage, recode the keys and it's all good.

Looks dead easy in a paragraph!

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Edited 23 March, 201610 yr by Jaspire

If you can access the contacts for the original sounder, might it be easier to just bridge a replacement 12v sounder across the contacts ?

Something like this:-

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piezo-Buzzer-Sounder-12V-85Db-BUY-TWO-GET-ONE-FREE-/121903451502?hash=item1c62030d6e:g:Y7IAAOSwxH1ULQqM

 

I have the same issue - dead sounder, so I have thought about this but not taken any action yet.

For me at least, recoding a new cluster is a step too far. I was thinking about installing a large relay, connected from each of the two indicators (via diodes to keep the directions separate) to earth just to give off some sound - not actually doing anything.

I just bought anther cluster for the speaker, but replacing the speaker means dismantling both, taking off the needles without making a **** of it, desoldering both, and resoldering back in place. Am now looking into just replacing the cluster over next weekend when I am not working. Still don't remember agreeing to a) clean a driveway on Easter Saturday or b.) Do a run to Haydock on Easter Sunday. Grrr.

Just need to find full instructions on coding the new cluster and the keys, I think I need to contact a dealer with some codes to get a pin number to unlock stuff on both clusters, then Swap them over and key in the new info and the milage, recode the keys and it's all good.

Looks dead easy in a paragraph!

Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk

 

Swapping a cluster is far from easy, you need the 4 digit SKC PIN from both the donor cluster and your own. You then need the full adaptation map from VCDS for your own cluster to copy to the new, pair the immobiliser using the SKC's, pair the keys and once done the mileage will need to be corrected using one of the many services advertised as VCDS cannot alter this.

 

Do not expect to get the SKC codes from a dealer, particularly for the donor cluster as they will need the VIN number of the car it was removed from and a whole lot more.

Swapping a cluster is far from easy, you need the 4 digit SKC PIN from both the donor cluster and your own. You then need the full adaptation map from VCDS for your own cluster to copy to the new, pair the immobiliser using the SKC's, pair the keys and once done the mileage will need to be corrected using one of the many services advertised as VCDS cannot alter this.

Do not expect to get the SKC codes from a dealer, particularly for the donor cluster as they will need the VIN number of the car it was removed from and a whole lot more.

Bugger it I thought the dealer would give me the pins. I think I can get the vin from Jambro as I think the cluster is off the car he is breaking just now. Didn't realise they would be difficult about it. Shame about the milage too, cause the page on Ross tech explains how to input the milage, but this is on a new cluster rather than a used one so that must be different.

Cheers for that...party pooper

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If you can access the contacts for the original sounder, might it be easier to just bridge a replacement 12v sounder across the contacts ?

Something like this:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piezo-Buzzer-Sounder-12V-85Db-BUY-TWO-GET-ONE-FREE-/121903451502?hash=item1c62030d6e:g:Y7IAAOSwxH1ULQqM

I have the same issue - dead sounder, so I have thought about this but not taken any action yet.

For me at least, recoding a new cluster is a step too far. I was thinking about installing a large relay, connected from each of the two indicators (via diodes to keep the directions separate) to earth just to give off some sound - not actually doing anything.

Yeah I was actually just looking at piggy backing on the existing one and glueing it on the top of it and solder/twist and tape the wires onto the pins coming up to supply the existing one. No splitting and not desoldering(I am allergic to it).

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Dealer won't have the security code anyhow. It's all done online and they don't see the codes.

I was thinking about installing a large relay, connected from each of the two indicators (via diodes to keep the directions separate) to earth just to give off some sound - not actually doing anything.

 

You could even use a separate relay for each side of the indicators. That would give you the clicking sound back. Make sure you use relays that have an internal flyback diode though because the car's electronics can be damaged by the reverse voltage spike of non-diode relays.

A temporary fix might be to get use the type of buzzer used for tow bar installations and then load the outputs with a resistor.

 

Type 'Towbar Buzzer' into ebay.

 

Most caravan places will stock them.

The pics in this tutorial make it look like you could almost wire something in to the existing piezo connections from the side of the circuit board you can access without pulling needles off.

 

Although there are two pins going downwards out of the piezo housing through the board, and soldered on the other side, it looks like these two might also be accessible on the left edge of the top of the unit just near a tall black cylindrical capacitor in this pic:

 

 

 

Might be worth a try for someone?

Edited 24 March, 201610 yr by Wino

I thought it was possible to display the 4 pin IMMO code using the trip reset button and twisting it somehow with the ignition switch on.

Think go to maplin next week and get a couple of different wired ones and try them.if I twist the wire back on itself around each of the buzzer legs and solder it then I can test it and see if it works. Not that confident on VCDS yet to try too much.

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I thought it was possible to display the 4 pin IMMO code using the trip reset button and twisting it somehow with the ignition switch on.

Not heard of that before. Would kinda undermine the point of having a security system.

Not heard of that before. Would kinda undermine the point of having a security system.

 

It was mentioned and a link given how to do it in The-Darkness post a short while back after he swapped ecu and lost his code or somthing...

 

Don't know how successful it is but it was the first i had heard as well.

I'm changing my buzzer tomorrow. I will let you all know how it go's, fingers crossed, lol

Well success, it worked.  :sun:

I know when me indicators are on now, lol...

Any pictures of what you done?

Any pictures of what you done?

No mate, but this helped a lot..

 

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=227974