Hello, to start, I bought a Skoda Fabia 1.4 MPI 8V,

Initially thought it was a great car with a few minor things to sort (Brakes & Full Service)

Drove the car home (18 Miles), gearbox a bit stiff but everything seemed ok.

Then the problems started, there is a rattle on the left hand side of the engine block, I believe it to be one of the pullies / tensioners.

 

Then driving the car for 10 minutes, the Engine Warning Light came on, limped it back home, filled up the engine oil and water, then the head gasket blew not long after.

Stripped the engine down and had the head skimmed and put it back together.

Engine management light still on so took it to a garage to have them read, it comes up with:

 

17526 - o2 sensor heating bank 1 sensor2

16825 - Evap emission control system intermittent

 

What they mean, im not entirely sure.

Could do with abit of help on that!!!

 

Now the oil light beeps flashes and does not go off, not entirely sure why of that either.

Oil level is fine and car is not overheating.

 

HELP IF YOU CAN PLEASE.

 

Im new to driving as only passed my test in March 2016.

And obviosly im new to cars so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Simple terms if possible.

 

Thanks 

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by Chadwick88

The engine rattle on the left-hand side is the timing chain. They all do it. There is no tensioner, so when the chain stretches it just thrashes about. They never snap, just make an annoying rattle.

Possible lambda probe (post cat) for first fault. However advise a wiring check first as there are one or two issues known on the wiring loom.

Evap fault could just be the canister has past it's useful life. They do eventually become saturated.

Evap valve/sensor is on the left of the engine near the water expansion tank, it's a kind of disc attached to a couple of pipes. Easy as pie to replace. That being said, it being broken won't cause much grief, perhaps a slightly rough running when cold. It just puts fuel vapours from the fuel tank into be burned when it's appropriate.

O2 sensor bank 2 I think is the lambda sensor after the cat. Bit trickier to replace as its under the car, but again shouldn't cause running problems (the one at bank 1 might as it is earlier in the exhaust).

Can't see either causing an oil problem though, you may have another issue. Definitely the oil lamp and not the water lamp? Header tank sensor problems are common, and cause a beep and warning light on startup. Fix for this is to replace the tank, sensor is integrated.

As above, chain rattle is normal. It also causes the slight up and down in the revs you may have noticed when idling. If you replace the chain it'll fix both the rattle and lumpy idle, but it's about £300 for a garage to do it, and no harm in leaving it as they don't snap in general.

Don't know if it's useful for you, but I once had both those errors at the same time. I replaced the EVAP sensor and both went away, perhaps the lambda sensor was picking up on it running rich because the EVAP was stuck open. May not apply to you. Oil definitely unrelated though!

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

the o2 sensor is either US  or it may only be the wiring at fault  the evap fault could be a loose or leaky pipe or a faulty control valve (electric) or it's wireing  you need to clear the codes run it and retest   see if someone near you has vag com and can help   edit must type faster   :sun:

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by cheshire cat

The engine rattle on the left-hand side is the timing chain. They all do it. There is no tensioner, so when the chain stretches it just thrashes about. They never snap, just make an annoying rattle.

Thank you

Possible lambda probe (post cat) for first fault. However advise a wiring check first as there are one or two issues known on the wiring loom.

Evap fault could just be the canister has past it's useful life. They do eventually become saturated.

Thank you

Thank you

 

You're welcome

Evap sensor is on the left of the engine near the water expansion tank, it's a kind of disc attached to a couple of pipes. Easy as pie to replace. That being said, it being broken won't cause much grief, perhaps a slightly rough running when cold. It just puts fuel vapours from the fuel tank into be burned when it's appropriate.

O2 sensor bank 2 I think is the lambda sensor after the cat. Bit trickier to replace as its under the car, but again shouldn't cause running problems (the one at bank 1 might as it is earlier in the exhaust).

Can't see either causing an oil problem though, you may have another issue. Definitely the oil lamp and not the water lamp? Header tank sensor problems are common, and cause a beep and warning light on startup. Fix for this is to replace the tank, sensor is integrated.

As above, chain rattle is normal. It also causes the slight up and down in the revs you may have noticed when idling. If you replace the chain it'll fix both the rattle and lumpy idle, but it's about £300 for a garage to do it, and no harm in leaving it as they don't snap in general.

Thank you, is it true that the lambda sensors can be cleaned in vinegar? I read this on the internet. Is it easyish to replace the chain? My Dad is a fairly confident DIY mechanic. 

Header tank ?

I have replaced the oil pressure sensor.

Header tank is the round white thing on the left with a blue cap that you put water into.

I got a garage to do my chain as I CBA spending half my weekend on it. That being said, I did look into what it took and it didn't look that bad to do myself, so if he's confident, go for it. The MPI engine has a lot of space around it, so is nicer than most to work on.

the o2 sensor is either US  or it may only be the wiring at fault  the evap fault could be a loose or leaky pipe or a faulty control valve (electric) or it's wireing  you need to clear the codes run it and retest   see if someone near you has vag com and can help   

I have had the codes read today and the engine management light reset and it came back on about 2 hours ago. I will get him to test again tomorrow.

Thank You

Header tank is the round white thing on the left with a blue cap that you put water into.

I got a garage to do my chain as I CBA spending half my weekend on it. That being said, I did look into what it took and it didn't look that bad to do myself, so if he's confident, go for it. The MPI engine has a lot of space around it, so is nicer than most to work on.

LOL, see what i mean about simple terms lol.

It is a nice engine to work on, my Dad did the strip for the head gasket, whilst i stood there and passed ratchets and spanners etc etc.

I love the car, just want to get all the little things sorted now before they turn out to become huge things e.g the flashing oil light.

The mechanic sai something about the oil pump strainer?????

Well you did have the head gasket go, if it got really gunked up maybe it's blocked an oil route or the strainer. After the gasket fix, did you run it for a bit and then replace the oil again to get the last of the water gunk out? Bit of a long shot, but if you need to do an oil change again for it, replace filter and check strainer.

The flashing oil light might be a faulty oil pressure switch (or its wiring).

 

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by TMB

I will put my head in the haynes manual tomorrow and see about taking the oil pump out and cleaning it and everything in it.

We run the car for about an hour to try an clear the smoke because of the oil an water still sat in the exhaust.

We replace oil an filters but think i might drain the oil again and replace the filter again to be on the safe side.

Thank you 

Cleaning the lambda probe won't do anything for a heating element fault. It's electrical, either the heater has gone down or there is an issue with the circuit.

The flashing oil light might be a faulty oil pressure switch (or its wiring).

 

hat

Replace that already but doesnt seem to go off, originally just flashed at me but now seems to beep 3 times and then keep flashing.

Ill try and take the oil pump out an see what state that is in.

Got to learn somewhere lol.

Thank you 

^ Ah OK

Cleaning the lambda probe won't do anything for a heating element fault. It's electrical, either the heater has gone down or there is an issue with the circuit.

Going to sound stupid here but the heater has gone???

Which heater, the heater in my car doesnt work unless on number 4 if thats what you mean?

I want to learn about my car but going to have to make myself look silly first.

If you dont ask, you dont get............

Thats what i was told lol

Oil and water in the exhaust won't have done the lambda sensor any good, but guess you thought that from your previous posts...

Heating only working on 4 is probably faulty fan resistor.

Going to sound stupid here but the heater has gone???

Which heater, the heater in my car doesnt work unless on number 4 if thats what you mean?

I want to learn about my car but going to have to make myself look silly first.

If you dont ask, you dont get............

Thats what i was told lol

 

There is a little heater inside the lambda probe.

Going to sound stupid here but the heater has gone???

Which heater, the heater in my car doesnt work unless on number 4 if thats what you mean?

I want to learn about my car but going to have to make myself look silly first.

If you dont ask, you dont get............

Thats what i was told lol

Going to sound stupid here but the heater has gone???

Which heater, the heater in my car doesnt work unless on number 4 if thats what you mean?

I want to learn about my car but going to have to make myself look silly first.

If you dont ask, you dont get............

Thats what i was told lol

I had no idea about the heater (but yes that will be the resistor)

The fault code you have with the lambda probe is on its heater circuit.

Check the wire to the oil pressure switch, if that's broken somewhere within the insulation it'll do what you're seeing, I think.

Sump off and look for blockage in the pick-up strainer would be wise given the unknown status of the engine though.

My Dad took the lambda sensor out (the one above the cat???) and it seemed ok, but we thought there was only 1 sensor on it (thats what we were told)

Is the fan resistor on a fuse or need a replacement?